New Tatting

Modern Lace Motifs & Projects

Tomoko Morimoto

Contents

Introduction

Before You Begin

Tools

Materials

Techniques

Tatting Basics

Tatting Tips and Tricks

How to Read Tatting Instructions

Step-by-Step Instructions

Collection 1: One-Shuttle Tatting

Small Flower Motif

Hydrangea Doily

Four Flower Motifs

Bookmarks

Floral Headband

Lacy Scarf

Viola Motif

Viola Motif Choker

One-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview

Project Instructions

Collection 2: Two-Shuttle Tatting

Square Flower Motif

Square Flower Makeup Bag

Square Flower Doily

Broadway Table Topper

Round Broadway Mat

Art Nouveau Pouch

Space-Dyed Classic Doily

Edge Motifs

Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview

Project Instructions

Collection 3: Split-Ring Tatting

Cheerful Key Chain

Botanical Coasters

Pointy Picot Doily

Cherry Blossom Shawl

Sea Spray Table Runner

Floral Bouquet Doily

Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview

Project Instructions

Resources

Copyright

Introduction

The art of tatting has always been woven into the fabric of my life. My mother tatted as far back as I can remember, so I suspect I was introduced to it before I was even born. Mom was always tatting and I was the recipient of many of her works: there was the gorgeous white lacy collar she added to my dress for a piano recital and my school blouse spiced-up with some pretty tatted trim and ruby red beads. My childhood memories are all embellished with a bit of tatting.

I started tatting in grade school, but I put it aside as I grew older, deciding it was too time consuming and that it made my arms ache! As an adult, I returned to this lovely craft and found myself enjoying it as much as my mother did. Tatting keeps my creative juices going, it is an inexpensive hobby, and it is very portable—I find that it is the perfect travel companion.

It’s been wonderful to rediscover tatting and incorporate this craft into my daily life. I share this book with you in hopes that you too will discover the pleasures of this centuries old craft and find a place for tatting in your modern life!

—Tomoko Morimoto

Before You Begin

In this section, you’ll find an overview of the tools, materials, and techniques necessary to start tatting. Once you learn the basics of the tatting shuttle, types of thread, and primary stitch techniques, you’ll be ready to begin tatting!

Tools

The only tools needed for tatting are a shuttle and a pair of scissors. This book uses shuttles with pointed tips. The pointed tip is often used to guide the thread when making joins. If your shuttle does not have a pointed tip, or you find it difficult to tat with a pointed tip shuttle, you can always use a lace hook to make joins.

The Shuttle

This illustration shows a side view of a shuttle. Pay attention to the orientation when winding and holding your shuttle.

Materials

There is a wide variety of tatting thread available today. I’ve used many different threads in this book to show the different weights, colors, and styles on the market. Have fun selecting the thread that suits your vision for each project. Here are a few of my favorite types of tatting thread:

Heavy-Weight Threads

Olympus Emmy Grande

This thick thread is ideal for absolute beginners because the stitches are easy to see. Because this thread is extremely durable, I also recommend it for practical items that take a lot of wear and tear, such as coasters and bags.

DMC Cotton Pearl #8

Originally developed as embroidery floss, this thread also works well for tatting. Widely available at craft stores, this thread is known for its beautiful gloss and rich color. It is important to note that some tatters find DMC Cotton Pearl #8 too smooth for their liking.

Lizbeth #20

This six-ply cotton thread is available in over 100 solid and variegated colors, making it one of the most popular tatting threads used today.

Medium-Weight Threads

There are several excellent medium-weight thread options available today. The following is a list of my favorite medium-weight threads that I’ve used throughout this book:

Olympus Gold Label #40

This cotton thread has a smooth, glossy finish for easy handling and is available in vivid colors that retain their brilliancy even after repeated washing. This thread is similar in weight to DMC #30.

DMC #30

This weight of thread is available in two variations: Cordonnet Special, which comes in only white and ecru and Cebelia, which is a soft thread available in a wider variety of colors.

Lizbeth #40

This thread is similar to Lizbeth #20, but is thinner and produces tatting with a tighter feel.

Light-Weight Threads

Silk Thread

For delicate designs, you can use silk thread. This glossy and smooth thread produces finished work with an elegant look and feel.

DMC #60

Mostly used by advanced tatters, this thin thread is ideal for edge motifs and doilies.

DMC #80

As the thinnest thread used in this book, DMC #80 produces tatting with a very delicate finished look.

Thread Gauge

The finished size of a motif is influenced by the weight of thread used. This visual guide shows full-scale images of the same motif made with different threads. If you use a thick thread, your motif will be large and if you use a thin thread, your motif will be small. As a rule, the larger the thread number, the thinner the thread. For example #80 thread is thinner than #20 thread.

Olympus Emmy Grande

DMC Cotton Pearl #8

Lizbeth #20

Olympus Gold Label #40

DMC #30

Lizbeth #40

Silk Thread

DMC #60

DMC #80

Techniques

How to Wind the Shuttle

Insert the thread through the hole so that the thread end is in front of you.

Make a knot near the thread end, pass the ball of thread through the knot, then tighten, as shown in the Knotting the Thread diagram below. Trim excess thread.

Hold the shuttle in your left hand so that the shuttle top faces up and wind the thread around the post. Break the thread once the shuttle is full.

Knotting the Thread

This illustration shows how to knot the thread around the shuttle in three easy steps.

Measuring Your Thread

Some projects specify the length of thread to wind around the shuttle to minimize waste or prevent the need to join a new thread mid-project. It may take a little extra time to measure out your thread before winding your shuttle, but it will save you time and frustration in the long run.

Stitches

In tatting, each stitch is composed of one first-half stitch and one second-half stitch. This pair is called a double stitch, even though it is actually counted as one stitch. A double stitch is made by slipping the shuttle, which is held in your right hand, over and under the thread wound around your left hand, which is called the working thread. For step-by-step instructions for making first-half and second-half stitches, refer to Tatting Basics. If you are learning how to tat, practice making double stitches smoothly before starting a project. Tatted lace is usually made up of continuous double stitches and picots.

Rings and Chains

In tatting, double stitches and picots are used to form two main patterns: rings and chains. Rings are often used for the inner portion of a motif, while chains are often used for the outer portion, such as edge motifs and borders. Designers group rings and chains in a variety of combinations to create an endless number of tatting motifs.

Rings

Rings are made with one thread that is wound around a shuttle. Wrap the shuttle thread around your left hand to make a ring, tat the necessary number of double stitches and picots, then pull the thread to tighten the ring. Refer to How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Chain for step-by-step instructions.

Chains

Chains are made with two threads: a shuttle thread and a working thread. Hold the working thread in your left hand and the shuttle thread in your right hand, then make double stitches and picots to form a line. Refer to Tatting Basics for step-by-step instructions on tatting a chain. If you are learning how to tat, practice making chains with two different colors of thread so you can see how each thread works to form the chain.

Picots

Picots are loops made between double stitches. The size of the loop will depend on your project and the thickness of your thread, but when you’re first starting out, make your loops on the larger side because you may need to pick up a thread through them later. Picots serve as a decorative feature and are also used to join rings and chains together. Refer to Tatting Basics for step-by-step instructions on making picots.

A picot made between two double stitches

Two rings joined together with a picot

Picot Size

When used as a decorative element, picots can vary greatly in size. Most of the designs in this book include small picots that are about 1⁄4" (6 mm) tall. However, a couple of the projects incorporate larger picots to create loopy designs. The Sea Spray Table Runner combines both small and large picots to create a complete design.

Right Side vs. Wrong Side

Tatted stitches look beautiful on both sides, so the distinction between the right side and wrong side is not as important in tatting as it is in other crafts. When you are alternating between rings and chains within a project, you don’t break the thread. Instead, you turn over the portion you just made and start tatting the next portion. Therefore, you are working on both the right and wrong sides. If you are a knitter, you’ll recognize that this process is comparable to knitting a row, then purling a row. In tatting, it is easier to identify the right side versus the wrong side of a piece by looking at picots rather than double stitches, as shown in the photos below.

Right side

Wrong side

Tatting Basics

How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Chain

This guide shows how to tat a first-half and a second-half stitch to make a double stitch in a chain. Please note that the photos below use two different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors). To tat a double stitch in a chain, you will need one thread wound into a ball, which is called the working thread, and one thread wound around a shuttle, which is called the shuttle thread.

1. Tat a First Half-Stitch

How to Hold the Thread and Shuttle (Steps 1–3)

Hold the working thread between the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Wind the thread over your middle and ring fingers, then around your little finger. Bend your little finger slightly.

Hold the shuttle between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand, so the shuttle thread extends away from you and the point faces upwards. Leave about 8" (20 cm) of slack in the shuttle thread and hold it between the thumb and index finger of your left hand.

Scoop the shuttle thread around the little finger of your right hand, then turn your hand palm side down. This is how you hold the shuttle when making a first-half stitch (refer to How to Hold the Thread and Shuttle diagram above).

Pass the shuttle to the left so that it travels under the working thread. Note: As the shuttle travels under the working thread, you must allow the working thread to slip between the shuttle top and the index finger of your right hand.

The red arrows show the way the working thread slips between the shuttle and the index finger of your right hand. However, it is important to note that the working thread does not actually move—the shuttle does.

Pass the shuttle to the right so that it travels over the working thread and under the archway of thread on your right hand.

Note: As the shuttle travels over the working thread, you must allow the working thread to slip between the shuttle bottom and the thumb of your right hand.

The shuttle thread has now wrapped around the working thread, forming a knot. Relax the middle and ring fingers of your left hand and pull the shuttle thread taut.

Pull the working thread, transferring the knot from the shuttle thread to the working thread (this process is known as “flipping”). Keep the shuttle thread taut, and pull the working thread to make the knot smaller.

Flipping the Knot

Although “flipping” the knot is done in one small, quick movement, it is actually the most important step in tatting a double stitch—if you omit this step, your stitches will be formed incorrectly. To ensure tatting success, practice “flipping” the knot until you can complete it in one smooth, fast movement. Refer to How to Transfer or “Flip” the Knot for more more information.

Move the knot closer to your fingertips. The first-half stitch is now complete.

2. Tat a Second-Half Stitch

How to Hold the Thread and Shuttle

Hold the first-half stitch between the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Without the thread hooked over any fingers of your right hand (refer to How to Hold the Thread and Shuttle diagram above), pass the shuttle to the left so that it travels over the working thread.

Note: As the shuttle travels over the working thread, you must allow the working thread to slip between the shuttle bottom and the thumb of your right hand.

Pass the shuttle to the right so that it travels under the working thread and over the shuttle thread.

Note: As the shuttle travels under the working thread, you must allow the working thread to slip between the shuttle top and the index finger of your right hand.

Transfer the knot from the shuttle thread to the working thread following the same process used for the first-half stitch (refer to steps 6–8 of Tat a First Half-Stitch).

The first-half and second-half stitches are now complete, which forms one double stitch. To test if the stitch was made correctly, hold the double stitch between your fingers and pull the shuttle thread. If you can slide the thread back and forth, the stitch was made correctly (see How to Test if Your Stitches Are Made Correctly).

How to Transfer or “Flip” the Knot

How to Test if Your Stitches Are Made Correctly

The most important step in tatting a double stitch is transferring or “flipping” the knot from the shuttle thread to the working thread. In the photo below, the first eight stitches were formed correctly. The working thread is knotted around the shuttle thread and the heads of the knots face upward. The last stitch was formed incorrectly. The shuttle thread is knotted around the working thread and the head of the knot faces downward. Since this stitch was formed incorrectly, the shuttle thread will not be able to slide back and forth. When tatting with two colors of thread, like in this photo, it’s easy to see if the stitches are made correctly because they should be the color of your working thread.

How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Ring

How to Hold the Thread

Hold the thread between the thumb and index finger of your left hand, about 2" (5 cm) from the thread end. Wrap the thread around your middle, ring, and little fingers. Hold the thread between your thumb and index finger to form a complete ring.

Hold the shuttle with your right hand, as shown in the How to Hold the Thread and Shuttle diagram. Tat the specified number of double stitches and picots (refer to How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Chain and How to Tat a Picot).

As you tat, the ring will grow smaller. Pull the thread toward you to make the ring bigger. This is also a way to test if your stitches are made correctly. If the thread does not slide through, the stitches were made incorrectly.

Adjust the ring size as you work. Pull the left thread to make the ring bigger and the right thread to make the ring smaller.

When tatting is complete, pull the right thread (shuttle thread) to tighten the ring.

A Note on Tension

Whether working a ring or a chain, novice tatters tend to pull the shuttle thread more than necessary. Although this may make tatted curves appear neat, it will actually make your double stitches flat and thin. As you grow more comfortable tatting, your stitches will naturally be more uniform in tension.

How to Tat a Picot

Leave about 1⁄4" (0.6 cm) of slack in the working thread. Tat a double stitch.

Pull the double stitch to move it closer to the previous double stitch. The loop between the double stitches is a picot.

Completed view of picots.

How to Tat a Picot Using a Picot Gauge

Cut the cardboard to the specified width of the picots, as noted in the individual project instructions.

Tat double stitches as instructed. To make the picot, insert the picot gauge between the working thread and the index finger of your left hand.

While holding the double stitches and picot gauge, start making a double stitch. When making the first-half stitch, pull the working thread against the gauge to form the stitch under the gauge.

Make the second-half stitch on the other side of the gauge to complete the double stitch.

To make the next picot, make the first-half stitch by hooking the working thread wound around your left hand with the pointed shuttle tip and moving it toward the front of the gauge. If you do not need to make a picot, make the stitch behind the gauge.

Make the second-half stitch on the other side of the gauge to complete the double stitch.

Remove the gauge once the specified number of picots are complete.

Picot Gauges

Instead of making your own, you can also buy ready-made picot gauges. Picot gauges commonly include guides to produce picots ranging from 1⁄8"-3" (0.3–7.5 cm).

How to Join with Picots

Join to Picot: Method A

This is the basic method used to join motifs together with a picot. This is the most commonly used joining method in this book.

Tat the double stitch before the join and use your index finger to hold the work with the right side facing up.

Position the picot over the working thread.

Reach through the picot and pick up the working thread using the pointed shuttle tip.

Pull the working thread through the picot.

Pass the shuttle through the loop.

Using your left hand, pull the working thread slightly to complete the join. Make sure not to pull too hard because this will prevent the shuttle thread from being able to slide. The join counts as a first-half stitch of a double stitch.

After the join, complete a second-half stitch. Continue making double stitches as specified by the pattern.

Completed view of two rings joined together using Join to Picot: Method A.

Join to Picot: Method B

This method is used to join with a picot when tatting a motif with a chain.

Tat the double stitch before the join. Bring the working thread under the shuttle thread. Use your index finger to hold the picot.

Pick up the working thread using the pointed shuttle tip. Pull the working thread through the picot and pass the shuttle through the loop. Pull the working thread slightly to complete the join (this is the same process used in steps 2–6 of Join to Picot: Method A).

If you can slide the shuttle thread back and forth, the join was made correctly.

Join to Picot: Method C

Like Join to Picot: Method B, this method is also used to join with a picot when tatting a motif with a chain. However, when this method is used, the join is fixed firmly in place and the shuttle thread cannot slide back and forth.

Tat the double stitch before the join. Move the working thread out of the way. Use your index finger to hold the picot.

Position the picot over the shuttle thread. Pick up the shuttle thread using the pointed shuttle tip. Pull the shuttle thread through the picot and pass the shuttle through the loop. Pull the shuttle thread slightly to complete the join.

Because the shuttle thread was used to make the join, it is fixed in place and cannot slide back and forth.

The Difference Between Join to Picot: Methods B and C

Both Join to Picot: Methods B and C can be used to join with a picot when tatting a motif with a chain. The major difference is that the working thread is used to make the join in Method B, while the shuttle thread is used to make the join in Method C.

This difference has two effects, which may influence which method you should use based on the individual project. First, the shuttle thread is invisible at the join in Method B, but is visible at the join in Method C, as shown in the photos below. Therefore, it is best to avoid Method C if using different colors for your working and shuttle threads. Second, the shuttle thread can slide back and forth in Method B, but is fixed in place in Method C. With Method B, you will be able to pull the shuttle thread to adjust the curves after the chain is complete. With Method C, you can only adjust the curves while making joins since the shuttle thread is fixed in place.

Join to Picot: Method D

This method is used to join the first and final rings together with a picot when tatting a motif with multiple rings.

On the final ring, tat the double stitch before the join.

Use the index finger of your left hand to hold the stitches for the final ring (). Fold the motif in half, as shown by the arrow.

With the motif still folded in half, open slightly so the right side of the first ring faces you.

Slide the final ring () down on your index finger so it is even with the first ring.

Join the final ring with the first ring (), as shown in steps 2–6 of Join to Picot: Method A.

Tat the specified number of double stitches to complete the final ring.

Pull the shuttle thread to complete the final ring.

Completed view of the motif.

Tie a knot and hide the thread ends (see Tatting Tips and Tricks).

Tatting Tips and Tricks

How to Join a New Thread Mid-Project

When tatting small motifs, it’s easy to complete the entire design without needing to stop and rewind your shuttle. However, when working on larger projects, it’s not always possible to wind your shuttle with enough thread to complete the entire design. When this is the case, you will need to stop tatting, rewind your shuttle to its full capacity, then join a new thread in the middle of your project.

Avoid joining the new thread in the midst of tatting a ring or chain. Instead, join the new thread right before you are about to begin tatting a ring or chain. This will allow you to tie and hide your knot on the wrong side of the tatted work, right where the pattern changes. The photo below shows a new thread being joined between rings. Use a lace or beading needle to pass the thread end from one ring through the bottom of the other ring, then tie a knot and hide the thread end on the wrong side, as shown below.

How to Hide Thread Ends

This method is used for hiding thread ends when joining a new thread mid-project or finishing a tatted piece.

Double knot the thread ends on the wrong side of the tatted work.

Cut the thread ends about 1⁄8" (3 mm) from the knots. Using a toothpick, apply a dab of glue to the thread ends so they adhere to the tatted work.

The thread ends are now hidden on the wrong side of the tatted work.

How to Re-Open a Ring to Fix a Mistake

Go back to the final picot () and slide the double stitches next to the picot apart in both directions, as indicated by the arrow in the photo above.

The shuttle thread has now been slightly loosened from sliding the double stitches apart.

Slide the double stitches up, as indicated by the arrow in the photo above, to return the picot to its original position.

Repeat steps 1–3 to loosen the shuttle thread further.

Use your fingers to make the ring large enough to allow you to undo the necessary number of stitches.

Finishing Techniques

Thread Ends: The way you knot and hide your thread ends has a big impact on the finished look of your tatted work. Make your knots neatly and be careful not to get any glue on the right side of your tatted work. Let the glue dry completely, then double check that your thread ends are well hidden before continuing with the finishing process.

Small Projects: When finishing small projects, such as motifs, place the tatted work on a piece of cloth, lightly mist with water, then use your fingertips to form the tatted work into shape. Let the tatted work dry completely.

Circular Projects: To finish projects such as doilies, create a template on a sheet of paper by drawing a circle that is the desired finished size of your project. Place a sheet of tracing paper over the template to prevent color transfer from the circle to your tatted work. Place the tatted work on the tracing paper, lightly mist with water, and form into shape. Pin the tatted work to the outline of the circle to hold in place while drying. When pinning picots, insert the pins at the base of the picots, being careful not to pull the picots out of shape. Let the tatted work dry completely.

Correcting Imperfections: If there are any imperfections in your tatted work, you can use an iron to smooth them out. Lightly mist the tatted work with water, flip it over so the wrong side is facing up, cover with a cloth, and use a cool iron. For best results, hold the iron slightly above the tatted work so you don’t flatten your stitches.

Using Silk Thread: If you use silk thread, you may not even need to use any of these finishing techniques because silk thread has a naturally moist texture and glossy look. However, if you are worried about the surface appearance of your silk projects, simply cover the tatted work with a cloth and lightly iron on the wrong side.

Jewelry: If you are turning your tatted work into jewelry, you may consider a few additional finishing techniques. Form motifs into shape using the finishing techniques for small projects listed above, then apply ironing spray or artificial flower stiffening spray to both sides of the tatted work. Follow the instructions on the spray bottle and be careful not to inhale the fumes.

How to Read Tatting Instructions

Tatting Diagrams

In this book, each project includes a diagram that shows the pattern to follow in order to tat the design. Even if you have experience tatting, this instruction format may be new to you, but as you will soon see, all the information you need is included in one easy-to-read diagram. The following guide shows how to read a tatting diagram and explains the meaning of each symbol. This guide uses the Small Flower Motif as an example; however, the same principles apply to all of the projects in this book. If you see a tatting diagram containing a unique symbol not shown here, the explanation will be provided within the individual project’s instructions.

How to Work from a Tatting Diagram

Begin at the start of tatting () and tat the first ring using the shuttle thread (color A).

Reverse work, wrap the working thread (color B) around your left hand, and tat the chain using the shuttle thread.

Reverse work and tat the second ring using only the shuttle thread and joining to the previous ring as you work. Repeat steps 2 and 3 as necessary to complete the motif.

At the end of tatting (), pass the shuttle thread from the right side to the wrong side between the ring and chain (). If necessary, use a lace or beading needle. Tie a knot and hide the thread ends (see Tatting Tips and Tricks).

Thread Guides

Each project also includes a Thread Guide, which lists important information regarding the thread used in the project. The Thread Guide will always include the amount of thread needed, whether the thread should be wound around a shuttle or used from the ball, and an explanation of the part of the design in which the thread will be used. Sometimes, the Thread Guide even includes information about thread color. The following example shows how to read a Thread Guide. This guide uses the Small Flower Motif as an example; however, the same principles apply to all of the projects in this book.

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Rings

Chains

This Thread Guide instructs you to wind a shuttle with 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of thread for tatting the rings and informs you that you will be using thread from the ball for tatting the chains.

Thread Guide Symbols

The following chart explains the meaning of each symbol used within the Thread Guides found in this book.

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Wind the specified length of thread around the shuttle (2^1⁄4 yards [2 m] in this example). If the symbol indicates “Max,” wind the shuttle with as much thread as possible and continue to refill the shuttle to its full capacity when empty.

Use the thread from the ball.

1^1⁄4 yards (1 m)

Measure the specified length of thread (1^1⁄4 yards [1 m] in this example) and wind it around the shuttle. Do not break the thread—leave it attached to the ball.

Max

Wind the shuttle with as much thread as possible. Do not break the thread—leave it attached to the ball. Continue to refill the shuttle to its full capacity when empty.

Use two shuttles. Wind the specified length of thread around each shuttle (4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) and 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) for a total of 6^3⁄4 yards [6 m] in this example). When tatting, use shuttle A for the shuttle thread and shuttle B for the working thread.

Step-by-Step Instructions

This guide uses the Small Flower Motif as an example; however, the basic techniques apply to all projects in this book. Refer to the Small Flower Motif Thread Guide and Tatting Diagram. Please note that the photos below use different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors).

MATERIALS

- 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande Herbs in each color A and B

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

- Scissors

- Fabric glue

- Toothpick (not pictured)

FINISHED SIZE

1^1⁄2" (4 cm) diameter

Tat a ring of double stitches and picots using the shuttle thread, as shown in the Tatting Diagram in How to Read Tatting Instructions (see How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Ring and How to Tat a Picot for instructions).

The first ring is now complete.

Hold the working thread in your left hand with the ring. Reverse work so the wrong side of the ring is facing you.

Tat the first chain, as shown in the Tatting Diagram in How to Read Tatting Instructions (see Tatting Basics for chain instructions).

The first chain is now complete.

Reverse work, then begin the second ring using the shuttle thread.

Tat the specified number of double stitches before the join.

Join the rings together using Join to Picot: Method A ().

Continue tatting to complete the second ring.

Reverse work, then tat the next chain. Repeat steps 4–9 to tat the remaining rings and chains.

When tatting the final ring, you will need to join two of the picots to picots on the two adjacent rings. Join the first picot of the final ring to the last picot of the previous ring ().

Tat the second picot of the final ring. Join the third picot of the final ring to the first picot of the first ring ().

Tat the specified number of double stitches to complete the final ring.

Reverse work, then tat the final chain.

Tie knots and hide the thread ends (see Tatting Tips and Tricks).

The Small Flower Motif is now complete.

COLLECTION 1: One-Shuttle Tatting

The projects in this collection are ideal for tatting beginners. All of these motifs use just one shuttle and incorporate only basic tatting techniques. Use your newly learned tatting skills to create the quick and easy designs featured here.

Small Flower Motif

Construct this sweet floral motif by alternately tatting rings and chains. Use a different color thread for the chains to give each motif a unique look, as shown below.

Instructions on page 37

Hydrangea Doily

Create this round table topper by combining several of the Small Flower Motifs and adding a decorative edging. For a beautiful effect, try variegated threads, which are reminiscent of the colors used in Impressionist paintings.

Instructions on page 52

Four Flower Motifs

Instructions on pages 54–57

Dahlia

Create this motif using the same technique as the Christmas Rose, but with added picots and rings in the outer row.

Marigold

This sweet design is composed of an inner row of six rings surrounded by an outer row of rings and chains.

Jasmine

This is a great design to practice joining the first and final rings. Once you master this technique, you’ll have a world of motifs open to you!

Christmas Rose

The large chains featured in this design make the flower appear as if it is in full bloom.

The flower motifs featured above are ideal for creating custom jewelry. See Finishing Techniques for tips on transforming your tatted works into one-of-a-kind wearable accessories.

Bookmarks

Both the Large Flower Bookmark (on left) and the Small Flower Bookmark (on right) make thoughtful and useful gifts. As an alternative, simply omit the tassels and increase the number of pattern repeats to use these beautiful motifs as decorative trim on place mats, tablecloths, or pillows.

Instructions on pages 58–61

Floral Headband

This headband follows the same pattern as the Small Flower Bookmark, but does not include the surrounding picots. This design modification establishes a cleaner edge and a modern style.

Instructions on page 62

Lacy Scarf

This decorative scarf is a contemporary salute to old-fashioned lace collars. The scarf is made using the same pattern as the Large Flower Bookmark, except with just one color of thread.

Instructions on page 64

Viola Motif

This sweet little floral motif works up quickly, which makes it perfect for embellishing everything from gift bags to greeting cards. Each motif requires only a small amount of thread, so this project is a great way to use up all of your scraps … have fun experimenting with color combinations!

Instructions on page 65

Viola Motif Choker

Combine simple Viola Motifs with large, lacy flowers to create this statement-making choker. This stunning piece of jewelry may look intricate, but is actually constructed with a continuous strand of thread. The elegant design of this necklace complements formal attire, yet also pairs beautifully with more casual looks.

Instructions on page 66

One-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview

Doilies are great projects for tatting beginners. Design your own doily—simply make several of the same motif, joining the motifs as you work, then add an edge motif. This guide uses the Hydrangea Doily as an example; however the basic principles apply to all projects involving one-shuttle tatting. Please note that the photos below use different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors).

How to Join Motifs (Join to Picot: Method A)

Tat the first motif. From the second motif onwards, join to the first motif as you work, using Join the Picot: Method A.

The first and second motifs are now joined. Knot and hide thread ends (see Tatting Tips and Tricks).

From the third motif onwards, join to the first motif, plus the previous motif as you work, using Join to Picot: Method A.

How to Tat an Edge Motif

Estimate the length of core thread necessary by creating a circle of thread around the motif. Wind the shuttle with this amount of thread plus a bit extra. The () marks where the thread will join to the motif.

Position the ball on the left side of the motif. Hold the shuttle in your right hand and hold the () with the index finger of your left hand. Position the picot from which the edge motif will start over the () and join using Join to Picot: Method C.

The first join is now complete.

Tat the chain, as shown in the Tatting Diagram for the Hydrangea Doily. From the second join onwards, use Join to Picot: Method B.

The second join is now complete.

Repeat steps 4 and 5 to tat the edge motif.

As you work, adjust the tension as necessary. To tighten, pull the shuttle thread. To add slack, widen the space between your stitches.

To finish, pass the shuttle thread through the picot as indicated by the arrow.

Knot and hide thread ends (see Tatting Tips and Tricks).

Hydrangea Doily

MATERIALS

(for one doily)

- 11 yards (10 m) of Lizbeth #20 cordonnet in multi-color

- 16^1⁄2 yards (15 m) of Lizbeth #20 cordonnet in off-white

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

11 yards (10 m)

Rings

Multicolor

Chains

Offwhite

1^1⁄4 yards (1 m)

Edge motif

FINISHED SIZE

3^1⁄2" × 3^3⁄4" (8.8 × 9.5 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 11 yards (10 m) of the multi-colored thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first motif, as shown in Step-by-Step Instructions.

3. Continue tatting the motifs in numerical order, as listed in the diagram below. From the second motif onwards, join to the first motif as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to One-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview). From the third motif onwards, also join to the previous motif as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

4. Once all seven hydrangea motifs are complete, wind the shuttle with 1^1⁄4 yards (1 m) of off-white thread, following the instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

5. Tat the edge motif around the seven hydrangea motifs, as shown in the diagram on the Tatting Diagram (also refer to One-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview).

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 7 hydrangea motifs.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Marigold Motif

MATERIALS

- 8^3⁄4 yards (8 m) of DMC #30 Cordonnet Special in ecru

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

3^1⁄2 yards (3 m)

Row 1 (outer portion)

Rings

Chains

1^3⁄4 yards (1.5 m)

Row 2 (inner portion)

Rings

FINISHED SIZE

1^3⁄4" (4.5 cm) in diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 3^1⁄2 yards (3 m) of thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For row 1, tat the first ring, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings, as shown in the diagram below (also refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Wind the shuttle with 1^3⁄4 yards (1.5 m) of thread, following the instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

4. Tat row 2, joining to row 1 as you work.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Christmas Rose Motif

MATERIALS

- 11 yards (10 m) of DMC #30 Cordonnet Special in ecru

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Row 1 (inner portion)

Rings

Chains

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Row 2 (inner portion)

Rings

Chains

FINISHED SIZE

2^1⁄4" (5.5 cm) in diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For row 1, tat the first ring, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings in reference to the diagram below (also refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Wind the shuttle with 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of thread, following the instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

4. For row 2, tat the first ring, joining to row 1, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring and row 1 as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings, as shown in the diagram below.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Dahlia Motif

MATERIALS

- 13^1⁄4 yards (12 m) of DMC #30 Cordonnet Special in ecru

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

2^3⁄4 yards (2.5 m)

Row 1 (inner portion)

Rings

Chains

2^3⁄4 yards (2.5 m)

Row 2 (inner portion)

Rings

Chains

FINISHED SIZE

2^1⁄2" (6 cm) in diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 2^3⁄4 yards (2.5 m) of thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For row 1, tat the first ring, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings as shown in the diagram below (also refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Wind the shuttle with 2^3⁄4 yards (2.5 m) of thread, following the instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

4. For row 2, tat the first ring A, joining to row 1, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the first ring B, which is actually composed of two rings. For all B rings, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work. Reverse work and tat the next chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring A. From the second ring A onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring and row 1 as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings, as shown in the diagram below.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Jasmine Motif

MATERIALS

- 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of DMC #30 Cordonnet Special in ecru

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Rings

FINISHED SIZE

1^1⁄4" (3.2 cm) tall

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 2^1⁄4 yards (2 m) of thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first large ring, as shown in the diagram below.

3. Leave 1⁄8" (3 mm) of slack, then tat the first small ring. From the first small ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work using Join to Picot: Method A.

4. Continue tatting, alternating between large and small rings. For the final ring only, join to the first ring using Join to Picot: Method D.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Small Flower Bookmark

MATERIALS

- 4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) of Olympus Gold Label #40 lace thread in beige

- 4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) of Olympus Gold Label #40 lace thread in light brown

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

4^1⁄2 yards (4 m)

Rings

Beige

Chains

Light brown

FINISHED SIZE

1^1⁄4" × 5^1⁄2" (2.5 × 14 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) of beige thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat ring 1, including starting picot A, as shown in the Tatting Diagrams. Reverse work and tat the first chain (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Reverse work and tat ring 2, joining to the starting picot as you work. Reverse work and tat the second chain.

4. Reverse work and tat ring 3, joining to the starting picot as you work. Tat ring 4, including starting picot B, as shown in the Tatting Diagrams.

5. Continue in this manner to tat the lower half, then the upper half of the bookmark. Note that rings 1, 6, and 11 will have starting picot A and rings 4 and 9 will have a smaller starting picot B. The other rings will join to these starting picots.

6. To make the tassel, cut four 6^1⁄4" (16 cm) long pieces of light brown thread. Thread two pieces through each of the specified picots, fold in half, and knot. Bring all eight strands together and knot. Trim the thread ends to the same length.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Starting Picot

How to Attach Tassel

PROJECT NOTES

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting the rings.

- Tat the lower half, then the upper half of the bookmark.

Large Flower Bookmark

MATERIALS

- 4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) of Olympus Gold Label #40 lace thread in light brown

- 5^1⁄2 yards (5 m) of Olympus Gold Label #40 lace thread in light blue

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

4^1⁄2 yards (4 m)

Rings

Light brown

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Chains

Light blue

FINISHED SIZE

1^1⁄2" × 6^1⁄2" (3.5 × 16 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with 4^1⁄2 yards (4 m) of light brown thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat ring 1, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Reverse work and tat ring 2, joining to the previous ring as you work. Complete the lower half of the first flower by alternating between chains and rings in reference to the Tatting Diagram.

4. Tat the straight chain, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Tat the lower half of the second flower following the same process as the first flower. From the second flower onwards, join the first chain to the final chain of the previous flower.

5. Continue in this manner to tat the lower half, then the upper half of the bookmark.

6. To make the tassel, cut six 6^1⁄4" (16 cm) long pieces of light brown thread. Thread two pieces through each of the specified picots, fold in half, and knot. Bring all twelve strands together and knot. Trim the thread ends to the same length.

TATTING DIAGRAM

How to Attach Tassel

PROJECT NOTES

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting the rings.

- Tat the lower half, then the upper half of the bookmark.

Floral Headband

MATERIALS

- 34 yards (31 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande Herbs in ecru

- One 1⁄8" (3 mm) thick × 11^3⁄4" (30 cm) rubber band

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

Max

Rings

Chains

FINISHED SIZE

Motif: 1^1⁄4" × 17" (2.8 cm × 43 cm)

Headband: 1^1⁄4" × 21^3⁄4" (2.8 × 55.5 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with the ecru thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat ring 1, including starting picot A, as shown in the Tatting Diagrams. Reverse work and tat the first chain (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Reverse work and tat ring 2, joining to the starting picot as you work. Reverse work and tat the second chain.

4. Reverse work and tat ring 3, joining to the starting picot as you work. Tat ring 4, including starting picot B, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

5. Continue in this manner to tat the lower half, then the upper half of the headband.

6. Sew the rubber band to the wrong side of the motifs at each end of the headband, as shown in the diagram below.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Starting Picot

PROJECT NOTES

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting the rings.

- Tat the lower half, then the upper half of the headband.

Lacy Scarf

MATERIALS

- 121^1⁄2 yards (111 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande in pink

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Max

Rings

Chains

FINISHED SIZE

2" (5 cm) wide × 54^1⁄4" (137.7 cm) long

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with the pink thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat ring 1, as shown in the diagram below. Reverse work and tat the first chain (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Reverse work and tat ring 2, joining to the previous ring as you work. Complete the lower half of the first flower by alternating between chains and rings in reference to the diagram below.

4. Tat the straight chain, as shown in the diagram below. Tat the lower half of the second flower following the same process as the first flower. From the second flower onwards, join the first chain to the final chain of the previous flower.

5. Continue in this manner to tat the lower half, then the upper half of the scarf.

TATTING DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting the rings.

- Tat the lower half, then the upper half of the scarf.

Viola Motif

MATERIALS

(for one motif)

- 1^3⁄4 yards (1.5 m) of Lizbeth #20 cordonnet in light green

- 1^1⁄4 yards (1 m) of Lizbeth #20 cordonnet in gray

TOOLS

• 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

1^3⁄4 yards (1.5 m)

Rings

Light green

2^1⁄4 yards (2 m)

Chains

Gray

FINISHED SIZE

3⁄4" (2 cm) diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with the light green thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first ring, including the starting picot, as shown in the diagrams below.

3. Reverse work and tat the chain using the working thread.

4. Reverse work and tat the next ring, joining to that starting picot as you work. Use Join to Picot: Method A.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to complete the motif.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Viola Motif Choker

MATERIALS

- 27^1⁄2 yards (25 m) of DMC Cebelia #30 crochet thread in black

- One 3⁄8" (1 cm) wide x 8" (20 cm) long black velvet choker

- Sewing thread

TOOLS

- 1 shuttle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

16^1⁄2 yards (15 m)

Rings and chains

FINISHED SIZE

Necklace: About 14 3⁄4" (37.5 cm) circumference

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttle with thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide. Note: This necklace is made by tatting the outward facing portions of all of the motifs first, then tatting the inward facing portions of all of the motifs, working back to the first ring. To tat the outward facing portions of the motifs, refer to the light gray rings and white chains and work in a clockwise direction, as indicated by the arrows in the diagram. To tat the inward facing portions of the motifs, refer to the dark gray rings and light gray chains and work in a counterclockwise direction, as indicated by the arrows in the diagram.

2. For the A motifs, tat the first ring, including the starting picot, as shown in Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the starting picot as you work. Continue alternating between chains and rings in reference to the diagram (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Tat the outward facing portions of motifs A and B in reference to the Tatting Diagram. Change direction and tat the inward facing portions of the motifs to complete the tatted work.

4. Cut the velvet choker in half into two 4" (10 cm) pieces. To hem the pieces, fold the raw edge of each piece under twice and sew. Sew the hem of each choker piece to the tatted work, as shown in the diagram below.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Starting Picot

COLLECTION 2: Two-Shuttle Tatting

Expand your repertoire of motifs by working with a second shuttle. While the basic technique for tatting with two shuttles is the same as for one, two-shuttle tatting allows for a greater range of designs and details. Start out with a small motif first to get accustomed to working with two shuttles … you’ll be ready to move on to one of the more elaborate projects in no time!

Square Flower Motif

The four corners of this otherwise round motif lend a crisp modern feel to the design. One shuttle is used for the inner rings, while a second shuttle is used for the outer rings and chains. This motif is a great starter project for learning to tat with two shuttles.

Instructions on page 76

Square Flower Makeup Bag

Square motifs are perfect for making bags and pouches because they can be joined easily. Add beads when tatting the picots for an extra dose of elegance and glamour.

Instructions on page 79

Square Flower Doily

Join a group of the Square Flower Motifs to create this decorative doily. Simply add more motifs to create a larger design and turn this little doily into a stunning table topper.

Instructions on page 77

Broadway Table Topper

I tatted this design with thread I found in a shop on Broadway in New York City. Tatters have stashes too!

Instructions on page 83

Round Broadway Mat

I designed this smaller mat with a more classic, ornamental look by adding extra ring motifs.

Instructions on page 85

Art Nouveau Pouch

The large, looped petals provide Art Nouveau appeal to this pouch. This design is a beautiful and useful accessory to give as a gift or carry yourself!

Instructions on page 87

Space-Dyed Classic Doily

Update a traditional tatting design like this doily by using space-dyed or variegated thread. The effect of the varying colors adds a friendly dose of charm to a classic!

Instructions on page 89

Edge Motifs

Both the Thin Scallop Edge Motif (top) and the Wide Lace Edge Motif (bottom) are tatted with simple white thread. These designs are perfect for adding a classic decorative touch to a host of accessories, such as handkerchiefs and collars.

Instructions on pages 91–95

Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview

Two-shuttle tatting actually uses the same basic techniques as one-shuttle tatting, but allows you to create more elaborate designs. This guide uses the Square Flower Motif as an example; however the basic principles apply to all projects involving two-shuttle tatting. Please note that the photos below use different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors).

Wind shuttles A and B with the specified length of thread. In this guide, shuttle A will use off-white thread and shuttle B will use brown thread.

Tat the inner ring using shuttle A.

Wrap the thread from shuttle B around your left hand, as you would for the working thread to tat a chain. Put shuttle B down.

Turn the inner ring over so the wrong side is facing you. Hold the two threads from shuttles A and B with the thumb and index finger of your left hand. Hold shuttle A in your right hand.

Tat the specified number of double stitches and the picot to make the first chain.

Put shuttle A down. Wrap the thread from shuttle B around your left hand to form a ring.

Tat the specified number of double stitches and the picot to make the outer ring using shuttle B.

Pull the shuttle B thread to tighten the ring.

Wrap the thread from shuttle B around your left hand, as you would for the working thread to tat a chain. Use shuttle A to tat the next chain.

Reverse work and tat the next inner ring using shuttle A, as shown in the Square Flower Motif Tatting Diagram. From the second inner ring onwards, join to the previous ring as you work using Join to Picot: Method A. Repeat steps 3-5 to tat the next chain by holding shuttle A and using shuttle B as the working thread.

Continue in the same manner to complete the motif, using shuttle A for the inner rings and shuttle B as the working thread for the outer rings and chains.

Square Flower Motif

MATERIALS

- 3^1⁄2 yards (3 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande in pink

- 4 yards (3.5 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande in off-white

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

A
3^1⁄2 yards (3 m)

Inner rings

Pink

B
4 yards (3.5 m)

Chains and outer rings

Off-white

FINISHED SIZE

2^1⁄4" × 2^1⁄4" (5 × 5 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with pink and off-white thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first inner ring using shuttle A. Reverse work and tat the first chain using shuttle B as the working thread (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions and Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions).

3. Tat the outer ring using shuttle B.

4. Tat the next chain using shuttle B as the working thread. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring using shuttle A. From the second inner ring onwards, join to the previous inner ring as you work using Join to Picot: Method A.

5. Continue in this manner to complete the motif, as shown in the diagram below.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Square Flower Doily

MATERIALS

- 22 yards (20 m) of DMC Cotton Pearl #8 in pink

- 27^1⁄2 yards (25 m) of DMC Cotton Pearl #8 in ecru

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

2^3⁄4 yards (2.5 m)*

Inner rings

Pink

3^1⁄2 yards (3 m)*

Chains and outer rings

Ecru

* These figures indicate the length of thread necessary for one motif. You will need to rewind your shuttles for each motif.

FINISHED SIZE

Motifs: 1^1⁄2" × 1^1⁄2" (3.8 × 3.8 cm)

Doily: About 4^1⁄2" × 4^1⁄2" (11.5 × 11.5 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with pink and ecru thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first motif, following the instructions for the Square Flower Motif.

3. Continue tatting the motifs following the order listed in the diagram below. From the second motif onwards, join to the other motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

- Make 9 motifs total.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Square Flower Makeup Bag

MATERIALS

- 60 yards (55 m) of Lizbeth #40 lace thread in off-white

- 48 yards (44 m) of Lizbeth #40 lace thread in light green

- 48 yards (44 m) of Lizbeth #40 lace thread in light green

- 576 small round beads in green

- One 5" × 7^1⁄2" (12.5 × 19 cm) piece of undyed cotton fabric

- One 5" (12 cm) long zipper

- Sewing thread

TOOLS

- 2 (or 3) shuttles

- Beading needle

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Max

Off-white

Max

Light green

Max

Green

FINISHED SIZE

Motifs: 1^1⁄4" × 1^1⁄4" (3 × 3 cm)

Bag: 3^1⁄2" × 4^3⁄4" (9 × 12 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first motif, following the instructions for the Square Flower Motif. When tatting the inner rings, add beads to the specified picots, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to How to Add Beads When Tatting).

3. Continue tatting the motifs following the order listed in the Finished Project Diagram. From the second motif onwards, join to the other motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Make sure to tat the motifs following the color combinations listed in the Color Combination Chart.

4. When the tatting is complete, cut out and sew the fabric bag, as shown in the Construction Steps. Insert the fabric bag into the tatted work and hand sew to attach the tatting and fabric along the opening.

COLOR COMBINATION CHART

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

CUTTING DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 24 motifs total.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining motifs. For motifs 19–24, tat and join to the corresponding motifs (for example: 19 to 18, 22 to 3) as indicated by the ∆ and • (also refer to Tatting Diagram).

- The letters indicate the color combination (refer to chart above).

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

How to Add Beads When Tatting

Insert the sewing thread through the beading needle and tie it into a loop. For each motif, use the needle to pick up 24 beads and slide them onto the crochet thread around the shuttle.

Before tatting each inner ring, move three beads onto the ring of crochet thread around your left hand.

When you reach the specified picot, use the shuttle to slide a bead towards you, then tat a double stitch. The bead has now been added to the picot. Repeats steps 1–3 to add the beads to the specified picots.

CONSTRUCTION STEPS

1. Fold the lining with right sides together and sew along the sides.

2. Turn right side out. Fold back opening seam allowances 1⁄8" (0.3 cm). Sew the zipper to the opening along seam allowances.

3. Insert lining into tatted work and hand sew together along the opening.

Broadway Table Topper

MATERIALS

- 70 yards (64 m) of DMC Cotton Pearl #8 in dark brown

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Inner rings (shuttle A)

Chains and outer rings (shuttle B)

* These figures indicate the length of thread necessary for one motif. You will need to rewind your shuttles for each motif.

FINISHED SIZE

Motifs: 1^3⁄4" × 1^3⁄4" (4.2 × 4.2 cm)

Table Topper: 5^1⁄4" × 8^1⁄4" (12.6 × 21 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the dark brown thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first inner ring using shuttle A. Reverse work and tat the first chain using shuttle B (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions and Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions).

3. Tat the three outer rings using shuttle B.

4. Tat the next chain using shuttle B. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring using shuttle A. From the second inner ring onwards, join to the previous inner ring as you work using Join to Picot: Method A.

5. Continue in this manner to complete the first motif, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

6. Continue tatting the motifs following the order listed in the diagram below. From the second motif onwards, join to the other motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 15 motifs total.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Round Broadway Mat

Shown on page 70

MATERIALS

- 26^1⁄4 yards (24 m) of DMC Cotton Pearl #8 in dark brown

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Motif A

Inner rings (shuttle A)

Chains and outer rings (shuttle B)

3⁄4 yard (0.5 m)*

Motif B

Rings

* These figures indicate the length of thread necessary for one motif. You will need to rewind your shuttles for each motif.

FINISHED SIZE

Motif A: 1^3⁄4" × 1^3⁄4" (4.2 × 4.2 cm)

Mat: 4^3⁄4" × 4^3⁄4" (10.4 × 10.4 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the dark brown thread, following instructions for motif A noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat and join four A motifs, following the instructions for the Broadway Table Topper.

3. Wind the shuttle with the dark brown thread, following instructions for motif B noted in the Thread Guide.

4. Tat eight B motifs, joining to the specified motif A outer rings as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 4 A motifs and 8 B motifs.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Art Nouveau Pouch

MATERIALS

- 17 yards (15.5 m) of Lizbeth #20 lace thread in dark pink

- 67^1⁄4 yards (61.5 m) of Lizbeth #20 lace thread in pink

- One 5" × 7^1⁄2" (12.5 × 19 cm) piece of pink cotton fabric

- One 5" (12 cm) long zipper

- Sewing thread

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

A Max

Inner rings

Dark pink

B Max

Chains and outer rings

Pink

FINISHED SIZE

Motifs: 1^1⁄4" × 1^1⁄4" (3 × 3 cm)

Pouch: 3^1⁄2" × 4^3⁄4" (9 × 12 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the dark pink and pink thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first inner ring using shuttle A. Make all inner ring picots slightly smaller than normal, about 1⁄16" (2 mm) tall. Reverse work and tat the first chain using shuttle B as the working thread (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions and Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions).

3. Continue in this manner to complete the first motif, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. At the end of each chain/outer ring section, join to the previous inner ring using Join to Picot: Method C.

4. Continue tatting the motifs following the order listed in the diagram below. From the second motif onwards, join to the other motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

5. When the tatting is complete, cut out and sew the fabric lining, following the construction steps for the Square Flower Makeup Bag. Insert the fabric lining into the tatted work and hand sew to attach the tatting and fabric along the opening.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 24 motifs total.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

- For motifs 19–24, tat and join to the corresponding motifs, as indicated by the and •.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Space-Dyed Classic Doily

MATERIALS

- 42^1⁄4 yards (38.5 m) of Lizbeth #20 lace thread in multi-color

- 42^1⁄4 yards (38.5 m) of Lizbeth #20 lace thread in cream

- 25^1⁄2 yards (23.25 m) of Lizbeth #20 lace thread in light green

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Max

Rings on rows 1, 2 and 4 Rings on motifs A and B

Multi-color

Chains on rows 1, 2 and 4 Chains on motif A

Cream

Chains on motif B

Light green

5 yards (4.5 m)

Row 3

Cream

Row 5 (use shuttle A for core thread)

Cream

FINISHED SIZE

Motifs A and B: 1^1⁄2" (4 cm) in diameter each

Doily: 8^1⁄4" (21 cm) in diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind a shuttle with the multi-color thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For motif A, tat the first ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain using the cream thread as the working thread (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions).

3. Reverse work and tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous ring as you work.

4. Continue alternating between rings and chains, as shown in the Tatting Diagram, to complete eight separate A motifs.

5. For the center motif, tat row 1, following the same pattern as motif A (steps 1–4 above).

6. Tat rows 2–4, joining to the previous row as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Make sure to wind a shuttle with cream thread for row 3, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

7. Wind two shuttles with cream thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide. Tat row 5, joining to row 4 and the A motifs, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to steps 2–3 of the How to Tat an Edge Motif guide).

8. Tat eight B motifs, joining to the center motif and the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Note: Motif B follows the same pattern as motif A, but uses light green thread for the chains.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

Thin Scallop Edge Motif

MATERIALS

- 12^1⁄4 yards (11 m) of DMC Cordonnet Special #60 lace thread in white

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

A Max

Inner rings

B Max

Chains, Josephine knots, and outer rings

FINISHED SIZE

5⁄8" (1.5 cm) wide

Note: 20 pattern repeats will equal 10^1⁄4" (26 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first inner ring using shuttle A, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain using shuttle B (refer to Tatting Basics for ring and chain instructions and Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions).

3. Tat the first Josephine knot, as shown in How to Make a Josephine Knot.

4. Tat the second chain.

5. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring using shuttle A. From the second inner ring onwards, join to the previous inner ring as you work, using Join to Picot: Method A.

6. Reverse work and tat the first outer ring, leaving 1⁄4" (4 mm) of slack with the shuttle B thread. Reverse work and tat the next inner ring, leaving 1⁄4" (4 mm) of slack with the shuttle A thread.

7. Continue in this manner to complete the motif, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

TATTING DIAGRAM

How to Sew the Edge Motif onto Fabric

1. Tat the edge motif until it equals the length of the fabric’s perimeter. When you reach the end of tatting, pass the thread through the start of tatting and tie a knot.

2. Use sewing thread to sew the tatted edge motif to the perimeter of the fabric, as shown in the diagram below.

How to Make a Josephine Knot

Note: These photos use different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors).

TATTING DIAGRAM

Wrap the shuttle B thread around your left hand. Tat the specified number of double stitches for the chain using shuttle A. Put shuttle A down. Hold the shuttle B thread in a ring as if you were about to tat a ring.

Tat a first-half stitch.

Tat seven more first-half stitches, making the stitches slightly loose and equal in size.

Pull the shuttle B thread to tighten the ring. The Josephine knot is now complete.

Tat the next chain using shuttle A.

Wide Lace Edge Motif

MATERIALS

- 38^1⁄2 yards (35 m) of DMC Cordonnet Special #60 lace thread in white

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Rings

Rings and chains

Chains and Josephine knots

FINISHED SIZE

1^1⁄2" (4 cm) wide

Note: 30 pattern repeats will equal 8^1⁄4" (21 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For motif 1, tat the first upper ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (refer to How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Ring for ring instructions). Reverse work. Leave 1⁄8" (3 mm) slack and tat the first lower ring. Reverse work. Leave 1⁄8" (3 mm) slack again and tat the second upper ring. From the second upper ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous upper or lower ring as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Continue in this manner to tat two separate motif 1 rows.

3. For motif 2, tat the first ring, joining to the upper ring on one of the motif 1 rows, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain, joining to the lower ring on the other motif 1 row, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to Tatting Basics for chain instructions). Reverse work and tat the second ring, joining to the previous ring as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Continue in this manner to complete one motif 2 row.

4. For motif 3, use Join to Picot: Method C to join the thread to the first upper ring of the motif 1 row. Tat the chains and the Josephine knot (refer to Hwo to Make a Josephine Knot). Use Join to Picot: Method B to join the second chain to the first upper ring of the motif 1 row. Use Join to Picot: Method B from the second join onwards. Tat one double stitch. Continue in this manner to complete one motif 3 row.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

COLLECTION 3: Split-Ring Tatting

Split-ring tatting builds on the techniques used in the first two sections of this book and opens the door to countless tatting designs. There is no need to cut the thread when split-ring tatting. This continuous use of thread means fewer knots to hide! See Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview for step-by-step instructions on the split-ring tatting technique.

Cheerful Key Chain

This charming little project is ideal for mastering the split-ring tatting technique. Attach the completed motif to your key chain to brighten up your busy day.

Instructions on page 109

Botanical Coasters

These beautiful coasters are composed of several different motifs tatted close together to produce an intricate design. Because these coasters are composed of many knots, they offer excellent durability and can be used to protect, as well as adorn, your tabletops.

Instructions on page 110

Pointy Picot Doily

This modern-looking doily seems intricate, but it is relatively simple to make—just tat the 12 identical motifs, then add the decorative edging. The ornate pointy edge motif highlights the beautiful curves within this piece. Its unique rectangular shape makes this design perfect for framing!

Instructions on page 112

Cherry Blossom Shawl

Tatted with glossy silk thread, this feminine shawl is the perfect accessory for a special occasion. Three different circle motifs are combined to create this lacy, lady-like design.

Instructions on page 116

Sea Spray Table Runner

This design was inspired by the waves at my favorite beach. The large picots, made using a picot gauge, are reminiscent of the spray that results from crashing waves.

Instructions on page 119

Floral Bouquet Doily

This large-scale doily combines all of the basic techniques to create a tatting masterpiece. In this design, the concept of negative space is used to create a network of intricately arching rings and chains.

Instructions on page 122

Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview

When using traditional tatting techniques, rings have the appearance of being right side up, while chains have the appearance of being wrong side up. Using the split-ring tatting technique, you can create a piece of lace that is completely right side up. This guide uses the Cheerful Key Chain as an example; however, the basic principles apply to all projects involving split-ring tatting. Please note that the photos below use two different colors of thread for visual clarity (refer to individual project instructions for specific thread colors).

Wind two shuttles. Using the first shuttle thread, form a ring and make 8 double stitches. Notice that the heads of the double stitches face towards the left.

Take the ring off your hand and turn it around so that the starting point () is located at the top. Using your left hand, hold the ring in the same position used in step 1. The heads of the double stitches (•) should now face to the right.

Hold the second shuttle in your right hand. Pinch the two thread ends between the thumb and forefinger of your left hand to keep them out of the way.

How to Turn the Ring

1. Using your right hand, grab the part of the ring hooked by your little finger () and remove the ring from your left hand.

2. Turn the ring upside down, then insert your left hand back into the ring.

Begin by making a second-half stitch. Do not relax your grip on the thread in your left hand.

Do not transfer the knot. The knot should be formed by the second shuttle thread.

Pull the knot to complete the second-half stitch.

Using the same process, make a first-half stitch, making sure not to transfer the knot.

The double stitch is complete. Notice that the head of the double stitch faces to the right. Repeat steps 4–7 to make a total of 8 double stitches.

The ring should have 8 stitches on each side of the starting point (). Pull the first shuttle thread to tighten up the ring.

The split ring is complete.

Repeat steps 1–10 to make continuous rings.

How to Make Stitches in Split-Ring Tatting

1. Make the second-half stitch with the second shuttle thread. Do not transfer the knot.

2. Make the first-half stitch. Do not transfer the knot.

Split Ring Tatting by Hand

When split-ring tatting, you can make double stitches using a thread end. Even if the thread end is too short to wind around a shuttle, you can use your fingers to guide the thread and make double stitches—just remember to start by making the second-half stitch, then make the first-half stitch. Pull the thread to tighten your stitches so they have the same size and tension as the stitches made using a shuttle. The photo above uses the Botanical Coasters as an example.

Cheerful Key Chain

MATERIALS

- 4 yards (3.5 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande Herbs in pink

- Key chain

- 1⁄8" (3 mm) diameter jump ring

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

- Pliers

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Rings and split rings

FINISHED SIZE

2^1⁄2" (6.5 cm) long

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind two shuttles with thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. Tat the first ring using shuttle A, as shown in the diagram below.

3. Tat five split rings using both shuttles A and B (refer to Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview for split-ring tatting instructions).

4. Tat the final four rings using shuttle A. Use Join to Picot: Method A to join the rings.

5. Use Join to Picot: Method D to join the first and last rings of the flower. Tie a knot and hide thread ends.

6. Connect the completed motif to the key chain using the jump ring. Use pliers to open and close the metal rings.

TATTING DIAGRAM

Botanical Coasters

MATERIALS

- 16^1⁄2 yards (15 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande Herbs in blue

- 7^3⁄4 yards (7 m) of Olympus Emmy Grande Herbs in ecru

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Rows 1 & 2 Row 3: Chains, outer rings, and Josephine knots

Blue

Row 3: Inner rings

Ecru

FINISHED SIZE

4^1⁄4" (10.6 cm) in diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the blue and ecru thread, following instructions noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For row 1, leave a 6" (15 cm) long thread end, then tat the inner ring, alternating between double stitches and picots, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to How to Tat a Double Stitch in a Ring for ring instructions and How to Tat a Picot Using a Picot Gauge for picot instructions). Use a picot gauge to tat the picots.

3. For row 2, using the thread end from row 1, leave a bit of slack, then tat the split ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview for split-ring tatting instructions). Leave 1⁄4" (4 mm) slack, then tat the first outer ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. From the second inner ring onwards, tat the rings normally. Continue in this manner to complete row 2, joining the inner rings to row 1 and the outer rings to each other as you work.

4. For row 3, tat the first two inner rings, joining to row 2 as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain and outer ring using two-shuttle tatting (refer to Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions). Continue in this manner to complete row 3. For the chains with Josephine knots, refer to How to Make a Josephine Knot.

PROJECT NOTES

- Use blue thread unless otherwise noted

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

CLOSE-UP VIEW OF ROWS 1 & 2

Pointy Picot Doily

MATERIALS

- 108^1⁄2 yards (99 m) of Lizbeth #40 lace thread in purple

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

*These figures indicate the length of thread necessary for one motif. You will need to rewind your shuttles for each motif.

Motifs

Edge motif row 1

Edge motif row 2

FINISHED SIZE

Motif: 1^1⁄2" × 1^1⁄2" (3.6 × 3.6 cm)

Doily: 6^3⁄4" × 8" (16.8 × 20.4 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the thread, following instructions for the motifs noted in the Thread Guide.

2. For the first motif, begin row 1 by tatting the first ring using shuttle A, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagram. Leave 1⁄8" (3 mm) slack, then tat the next ring. From the second ring onwards, tat the ring, joining every other ring to the previous ring as you work. Continue tatting the rings, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagram, until your reach the final ring. Tat the final ring using split-ring tatting, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagrams (also refer to Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview for split-ring tatting instructions).

3. Reverse work, leave 1⁄16" (2 mm) slack with both shuttle A and B threads, then begin row 2 by tatting the split ring, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagrams. Reverse work and tat the first chain, outer ring, and second chain, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagrams. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring normally, joining to row 1 as you work, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif diagrams. Continue in this manner to complete the first motif.

4. Continue tatting the motifs in numerical order, as listed in the Tatting Diagram. From the second motif onwards, join to the other motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

5. Once all 12 motifs are complete, wind the shuttles with the thread following instructions for row 1 of the edge motif noted in the Thread Guide.

6. For row 1, tat the two inner rings using shuttle B, joining to the motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the outer ring using shuttle A. Tat the chains, joining to the motifs and to each other as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Continue in this manner to complete row 1 of the edge motif.

7. Wind the shuttles with the purple thread following instructions for row 2 of the edge motif noted in the Thread Guide.

8. For row 2, tat the first inner ring using shuttle B, joining to row 1 as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring, joining to the previous inner ring and row 1 as you work. Reverse work and tat the chain and the outer rings, joining to each other as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Continue in this manner to complete row 2 of the edge motif.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 12 motifs total.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

CLOSE-UP VIEW OF MOTIF

Cherry Blossom Shawl

Shown on page 100

MATERIALS

- 862^1⁄4 yards (788 1⁄2 m) of silk thread in pink

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Motif A

Motif B

Motif C

* These figures indicate the length of thread necessary for one motif. You will need to rewind your shuttles for each motif.

FINISHED SIZE

Motif A: 2" (5 cm) diameter

Shawl: 11^1⁄2" × 61" (29 × 155 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the thread, following instructions for the motifs noted in the Thread Guide. Make sure to refer back to the Thread Guide as you work because the manner in which you wind your shuttles changes for each motif.

2. For row 1 of motif A, use shuttle A to tat the first ring, including the starting picot, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif A diagram. Leave 3⁄8" (8 mm) slack, then tat the second ring. From the second ring onwards, join to the starting picot as you work. Continue in this manner to complete row 1 of motif A.

3. Reverse work and leave 1⁄4" (4 mm) slack with both shuttle A and B threads, then begin row 2 by tatting the split ring, as shown in the Close Up View of Motif A diagram. Reverse work and tat the chain, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first set of small rings, joining to the split ring as you work. Reverse work and tat the next chain. Reverse work and tat the large ring, joining to the small ring and the slack of row 1 as you work. Continue alternating between chains, small rings, and large rings to complete row 2 of motif A.

4. Repeat steps 1–3 to tat a total of 130 individual A motifs.

5. For motif B, tat the first inner ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain, joining to a motif A as you work. Reverse work and tat the second inner ring. From the second inner ring onwards, tat the ring, joining to the previous inner ring as you work. Reverse work and tat the next chain and set of outer rings, joining to A motifs as you work. Continue in this manner to tat a total of 75 B motifs, joining to the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Finished Project Diagram.

6. For motif C, tat the first set of inner rings, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Reverse work and tat the first chain, joining to motif A as you work. Reverse work and tat the next set of inner rings. From the second set of inner rings onwards, tat the rings, joining to the previous set of inner rings as you work. Reverse work and tat the next chain and set of outer rings, joining to the A motifs as you work. Continue in this manner to tat a total of 25 C motifs, joining to the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Finished Project Diagram.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

CLOSE-UP VIEW OF MOTIF A

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 130 A motifs, 75 B motifs and 25 C motifs.

Sea Spray Table Runner

MATERIALS

- 212^1⁄4 yards (194 m) of DMC Special Dentelles #80 in turquoise

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Motif A

Motif B

FINISHED SIZE

8^1⁄4" × 11^3⁄4" (21 × 30 cm)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the turquoise thread, following instructions for the motifs noted in the Thread Guide .

2. For row 1 of motif A, leave a 4" (10 cm) long thread end, then tat the inner ring, alternating between double stitches and picots, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to How to Tat a Picot Using a Picot Gauge). Use a picot gauge to tat the picots.

3. For row 2, using the thread end from row 1, leave a bit of slack, then tat the split ring, as shown in the Tatting Diagram (also refer to Split-Ring Tatting Technique Overview for split-ring tatting instructions). Leave 1⁄8"–1⁄4" (3–4 mm) slack, then tat the first outer ring, including the small and large picots. Note: Every other outer ring will join to the previous ring. Reverse work, leave slack, and tat the second inner ring. From the second inner ring onwards, tat the inner ring, joining to row 1 as you work. Continue in the manner to complete motif A.

4. Continue tatting A motifs in numerical order, as listed in the Finished Project Diagram. Note: Tat motifs 1–5 separately. From motif 6 onwards, tat the motif, joining to the other motifs, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

5. Tat a total of 58 B motifs, joining to the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 59 of motif A and 58 of motif B.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

- Tat motifs 1–5 separately.

- From motif 6 onwards, tat the motif, joining to the other motifs as you work.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Floral Bouquet Doily

MATERIALS

- 319 yards (291^1⁄2 m) of DMC #80 Cordonnet Special in ecru

TOOLS

- 2 shuttles

TATTING SYMBOLS

THREAD GUIDE

Row 1 of center motif (use 2 shuttles)

Row 1 of motif A

Row 2 of motif A

Rows 2, 3, 5, 9, and 10 of center motif

Row 1 of edge motif (use shuttle and ball separately)

Row 4 of center motif (use shuttle A for core thread)

Rows 6 and 8 of center motif (use shuttle A for core thread)

Row 7 of center motif

Rows 11, 12, and 13 of center motif

Motif B

Row 2 of edge motif

FINISHED SIZE

Motif A: 2^1⁄4" (5.5 cm) diameter

Doily: 14^1⁄2 (37 cm) diameter

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Wind the shuttles with the ecru thread, following instructions for row 1 of the center motif noted in the Thread Guide. Make sure to refer back to the Thread Guide as you work because the manner in which you wind your shuttles changes between each row.

2. Begin tatting the center motif, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. For row 1, use two shuttles to tat the rings and chains (refer to Two-Shuttle Tatting Technique Overview for two-shuttle tatting instructions). Tat rows 2–12, joining to the previous row as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Note: Row 10 is worked in the opposite direction from the other rows.

3. Tat 16 of motif A, following the numerical order listed in the diagram below. From the second motif onwards, join to the previous motif as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram. Note: Motif A follows the same pattern as rows 1–2 of the center motif.

4. Tat row 13, joining to row 12 and the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

5. Tat 16 of motif B, joining to row 13 and the A motifs as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

6. Begin tatting the edge motif. For row 1, join to the A motifs as you work and for row 2, join to the previous row as you work, as shown in the Tatting Diagram.

FINISHED PROJECT DIAGRAM

PROJECT NOTES

- Make 16 of motif A and 16 of motif B.

- The circled numbers indicate the order to follow when tatting and joining the motifs.

TATTING DIAGRAM download here

Note: The tatting diagram for this project is very large, so it is separated into the following three images. Please keep in mind that the last two rows of each diagram are repeated on the following diagram to provide a reference—work each row one time only.

Resources

Lacis

www.lacis.com

Extensive selection of shuttles and thread, including silk thread

Handy Hands

www.hhtatting.com

Variety of shuttles, thread, and tatting accessories, including fabric handkerchiefs and doilies

Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores

www.joann.com

Nationwide locations for shuttles, thread, and jewelry findings

International Organization of Lace

www.internationalorganizationoflace.org

Non-profit group dedicated to the art of lace

Ring of Tatters

www.ringoftatters.org.uk

International tatting organization based in the UK that offers patterns, newsletters, and instructional resources

Tomoko Morimoto learned tatting at an early age from her mother, the famous Japanese tatter Teiko Fujito. Morimoto is known for creating classic, elegant designs that are both practical and beautiful. She is an instructor at the Kasumigaoka Lace School in Tokyo.

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A Collection of Favorite Designs from Interweave

Anne Merrow

ISBN 978-1-59668-482-9

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Exquisite Designs with Fine Yarns

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New Tatting: Modern Lace Motifs & Projects

Copyright © 2012 Tomoko Morimoto

First published in the United States in 2014 by Interweave

Interweave

A division of F+W Media Inc.

201 East Fourth Street

Loveland, CO 80537

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All rights reserved. The written instructions, photographs, designs, patterns and projects in this volume are intended for the personal use of the reader and may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially commercial use, is forbidden under law without the express written permission of the copyright holder. Violators will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law. No other part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the original publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote a brief passage in review.

Japanese Title: SUTEKINA TATTING LACE – 3 STEP DE KOKOMADE DEKIRU Originally published in Japanese language by NHK Publishing, Inc., Japan English language licensed by World Book Media, LLC, USA via Tuttle Mori Agency, Inc., Tokyo, Japan

English language translation & production by World Book Media, LLC

Email: info@worldbookmedia.com

Translator: Miho Atsumi

English-language editor: Lindsay Fair

Designer: Arati Devasher, aratidevasher.com

ISBN-13: 978-159668-745-5

ISBN-13: 978-1-63250-010-6 (ePub)