Table of Contents

- Acknowledgements

- Introduction

- About Confit

- Duck Preparation

- Rendering Duck Fat

- Cracklings

- Duck Stock

- Clarified Duck Stock

- Reduced Duck Stock

- Master Confit Recipes

- Duck Confit

- Duck Confit Master Recipe

- (Confit de Canard)

- Extraordinary Aged Duck Confit

- Wild Duck Confit

- Duck Gizzard Confit

- (Gésiers de Canard en Confit)

- Canned Country Confit

- Duck Confit Herb and Spice Variations

- Goose Confit

- Goose Confit Master Recipe

- (Confit de Oie)

- Chicken, Pork, Rabbit and Turkey Confits

- Chicken Confit Master Recipe

- (Poulet en Confit)

- Rendered Chicken Fat

- Pork Confit Master Recipe

- Pork Confit Cured in Plum Wine and Darjeeling Tea

- Pork Confit Herb and Spice Variations

- Rabbit Confit Master Recipe

- Turkey Confit Master Recipe

- Seafood Confits

- Salmon Confit Master Recipe

- Tuna Confit Master Recipe

- Vegetable Confits

- Tomato Confit

- Garlic Confit

- Elephant Garlic Confit

- Red Onion Confit

- Fennel Confit

- Appetizers and Hors d’oeuvres

- Pepper-Cured Duck and Duck Confit Hors d’oeuvres

- Fried Green Tomato Lasagna with Tomato Confit, Mozzarella and Baby Basil

- Simple Duck Confit Pâté

- Eggs Clamart with Duck Confit en Croûte

- Duck Eggs Benedict with Sauce Colbert

- Duck Confit Aumônières

- Duck Confit and Onion Tart

- Rabbit Confit and Caramelized Vegetable Pizza

- BcLT ala Norman

- Tamale Tart with Red Pepper Custard, Wild Mushrooms and Chicken Confit

- Herbed Duck Confit Terrine

- Classic Duck Confit Terrine

- Classic Duck Confit Pâté en Croûte

- Rabbit Confit Mousse with Chestnuts, Truffles and Truffle Sauce

- Salmon Confit and Potato Terrine

- Duck Confit Rillettes on Toasted French Bread

- Duck Confit Pâté with Cloudberry-Shallot Relish

- Monkfish Liver Torchon en Confit with White Pepper Ice Cream, Apple and Apricot Compote and Brioche

- Soups, Salads and Sandwiches

- Butternut Squash Bisque with Duck Confit and Cracklings

- Cauliflower Soup with Duck Confit and Dijon Mustard Ice Cream

- Roasted Red Pepper and Elephant Garlic Confit Soup

- Duck Confit Salad in Tomato Bowls

- Duck Confit and Crackling Salad with Roasted Walnuts

- Warm Crosne and Duck Confit Salad

- Mesclun Salad with Confited Duck Gizzards Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Pears

- Salad Niçoise et Confit

- Terrine of Pecan-Smoked Chicken Confit, Oatcakes and Red Pepper Jam with Confit Tomatoes and Thyme Mayonnaise

- Duck Confit and Preserved Baby Artichoke Salad with Truffle Dressing in Potato Baskets

- Warm Pork Confit and Apple-Stilton Relish Salad

- Salmon Confit Salad with Fresh Fruit Salsa and Mango Vinaigrette

- Grilled Duck Confit Sandwiches

- Light Main Courses

- Oriental Duck Confit Ravioli

- Duck Confit Pot-Stickers with Ginger-Soy Sauce

- Duck Confit on Seared Sweet Potato Rounds with Pear-Shallot Chutney

- Butternut Squash Risotto with Duck Confit and Cheddar Cheese

- Duck Confit-Mushroom Crêpe with Asparagus, Tomato Confit and a Poached Duck Egg

- Lobster and Duck Confit Tarts with Tomato Confit, Braised Vegetables and Mushroom Foam

- Trout Confit Stuffed with Walnuts and Mushrooms

- Lobster and Tomato Confits with Tarragon Crustacean Butter Sauce on Brioche

- Diver Scallops en Croûte with Tomato Confit-Truffle Compote

- Hearty Main Courses

- Crispy Duck Confit with Black Beans

- Rabbit Confit with Baby Vegetables and Toasted Polenta Cakes

- Duck Confit Chiles Rellenos with Roasted Corn and Pepper Salsa

- Stuffed Duck Breasts with Pineapple, Cherries and Green Peppercorns

- Magret and Sweetbreads over Duck Confit-Stuffed Brioche with Reduced Duck Stock and Pan Glazed Asparagus Tips

- Duck Breasts with Cherry-Orange Duck Confit, Tagarashi Yams, Wilted Spinach and Cherry Glaze

- Duck Confit with Spinach and Sweet Corn Colcannon

- Confit of Goose á La Béarnaise

- Confit of Goose á La Landaise

- Pork Confit ‘con Frutas’

- Braised Pork Tenderloin with Pork Confit, Ramps, Garlic Rosemary Sauce and Celeriac Puree

- Pork Confit with Fresh Raspberry Sauce

- Venison Medallions with Red Onion Confit and Port Wine Sauce

- Salmon Confit with New Potatoes, Spinach and Saffron Cream Sauce

- Salmon Confit with Roasted Shallots and Garlic in Red Wine Sauce

- Arctic Char Confit Napoleon with Confit Tomato and Crab

- Cassoulet and Garbure

- About Cassoulet and Garbure

- Cassoulet

- Garbure

- Classic Cassoulet

- Cassoulet L’Ardour

- Classic Garbure

- Garbure Landaise

- Appendix

- Resources

- Bibliography

- Books

- Magazine Articles

- Index

- Colophon

- About the Author

- About the Typography

- Production Notes

- Sensual Preservation

- The Art of Confit

Sensual
Preservation

The Art of Confit

Paul Plummer

Second Edition - 2009

Copyright © 2009 by Paul Plummer – All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, in whole or in part, in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including, but not limited to, information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the copyright holder, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review. Members of educational institutions wishing to photocopy part or all the work for classroom use, or publishers, who wish to include part or all of the work in an anthology, should direct inquiries to the copyright holder.

Published by Mon Cuisinier Books

Seattle, Washington USA

This book is dedicated to those professional chefs
who have unendingly shared their knowledge
and skills with a meager food enthusiast
and to the friends who
humor that enthusiast in their kitchens.

Acknowledgements

No book is the product of a single person. It literally takes an army of dedicated people to get one of these things out of a person’s head, onto paper and into the bookstores.

Sometimes missed in the fracas of production are those people outside the direct handling of book-related tasks – those who provide not only the author, but everyone, with what is routinely described as “moral support.” These priceless people are a vital part of any endeavor, not to be overlooked.

To this end, I would like to mention a few of the many who have propped me up and kept positive encouragement flowing:

The Sommer family as a whole – always-enthusiastic believers in whatever I choose as a project and true, dear friends. T. J. Sommer in particular, who prepared seemingly endless recipes and provided valuable critiques of their outcome. Sean and Kristy Wheeler who enjoy good food as much as I do and who are willing participants in all food-related escapades. My father, who does not know I am writing this book and who will be surprised when it shows up in the mail. Eric and Tommy LeBlanc, who let me mess up their kitchen and don’t even make me clean it up. Suzy Shell who is an incomparable dinner companion and makes traveling to my favorite restaurants a walk in the park.

Ann Nguyen, Chris Koster, Barbara Hayes and Lisa Fernow, coconspirators in my efforts to pursue culinary endeavors. Lynn Bloom, travel partner extraordinary.

Gilles Belin, for his keen eye and recipe feedback.

Jacques Pépin, with a busier schedule than anyone I know, always finding the time to provide insight at all the crucial moments. Dean Fearing, who allows me to walk into his kitchen as if I belong there and lends an ear despite the cacophony of pots, pans and dinner orders. Charlie Trotter, who gifts us terrestrials with a model of how food and the restaurant trade must be in heaven.

As I mentioned earlier, there are material witnesses to the hands-on production of a book. For this effort, I’d like to thank a long list of people, not all of whom will fit in this space. Nevertheless my sincere thanks go out to each and every one of you.

Introduction

I fell in love on an Indian summer day in Connecticut – in one of those then-and-there, head-over-heels jolts best described in the pages of a cheap novel. My new love blossomed smooth and beguiling and delicious beyond my wildest hopes. Seducing me to my very core. Paradoxically, the object of my affections wasn’t a blonde or brunette, or even a redhead. She was a duck.

Here’s the story...

Visiting friends in Hartford; they were out shopping and I found myself rummaging through their sundries in search of sandwich makings. I spotted my new flame on the bottom shelf of a basement refrigerator; intrigued by its strange appearance and out-of-place presence.

Languishing in the lazy glow of the refrigerator light, a canning jar containing a small lump of visible meat, submerged in solidified fat, drew my gaze. The substance appeared to be more a science experiment than a foodstuff. This ‘accident’ must have sat in the fridge far too long and – at least in my mind – was destined for the garbage can. I gingerly removed it and set it on the counter, intending to toss it out as a favor to the Health Department.

Just as I had gathered all of the necessary fittings for my sandwich, my hosts returned.

“You’ve rescued the kon fee! We’d nearly forgotten about it. Let’s put some of that on your sandwich. You can make one for us as well,” they boomed, pointing to the jar on the counter.

Not immediately thrilled with the idea of eating someone’s Science Fair project, I reluctantly agreed.

I cautiously extracted incredibly moist chunks of darkly sensual meat from the fat. Amazingly, the pieces weren’t greasy, but instead were silky, tender, and firmly succulent. Shredded on a simple sandwich with mustard, lettuce and tomato, the taste was ephemeral and phenomenal – obviously duck, but not gamy.

Rich, smooth and seductive tastes blossomed from between the slices of bread.

I was hooked. This stuff was extraordinary; it was – well – sexy. I had discovered confit.

An entire gastronomic culture revolves around confit in southwest France. It’s used to both preserve and add flavor to nearly any fowl meat as well as pork, rabbit - even fish. Similar to other preservation methods such as pickling, cheese making and wine making, confit takes an already splendid raw product and extends both its life and savor.

This book celebrates confit in the forms I find most pleasing and in ways both traditional and new. It’s not intended to be a historical treatise on the culinary or cultural importance of confit. What I hope to do is excite your interest in this most amazing foodstuff and encourage you to start preparing and using it at home, both for family meals and dinners for guests.

However you choose to use the recipes found here, you’re sure to discover a whole new world of sensual culinary delights.

About this Second Edition

A few years have passed since the first edition of this book. The rapidly changing culinary landscape has evolved and become even more diverse. Food preferences and mores have morphed along with their environment. I’ve had time to reevaluate the contents of this book and to update the recipes.

You may notice this edition is shorter than the last. While most second editions are larger, I’ve decided to trim back the recipes and to streamline the processes in some of the longer ones to make them easier to prepare. The master recipes have a more accurate technique to determine the correct amount of salt in the curing.

You may also notice the addition of color to this edition. I think it adds greatly to the visual appeal of the pages, though - admittedly - it does little to make the food taste any better.

I hope this edition will spur even more interest in the variety and flexibility of confit.

About Confit

I certainly wasn’t the first to encounter the allure of confit (pronounced kon fee¯¯ or kawN fee¯¯ ); it’s been around for hundreds of years as one of Europe’s oldest food preservation methods. A specialty of Gascony and its surrounding regions in France, confit preserves autumn-hunted waterfowl meat through the winter. As a happy coincidence, the confit process also results in tender and flavorful meat that is brilliant in salads, sandwiches, stews and a multitude of other dishes. The taste of confit is completely different than that of the source meat. A combination of salt curing and long, slow cooking in oil modifies the meat into a delectable morsel with silken texture and gentle but distinctive flavor. All of the “gaminess” of the duck or goose is lost.

Traditional confit meats include both waterfowl such as goose and duck as well as pork. Duck gizzards are also commonly cooked in the confit method.

Varying forms of this delicacy thrive throughout southern France. A short history lesson will help us describe the area where confit is a mainstay of the traditional cuisine.

After the Romans lost sway over the peoples of Gaul (France), the country was essentially divided in two, due to language differences of the native peoples. The division was based on how one said “yes.” In the north, it was pronounced “oil” and in the south, “oc.” The populations of what are currently the Aquitaine, Midi-Pyrenees, Languedoc-Roussillon and Provence spoke the Oc dialect.

The Oc region (Occitan) was further divided along culinary lines by the locals’ choice of cooking fat. In Provence, olives were plentiful, so olive oil became the standard cooking oil. To the west, where olives were expensive, goose fat was used.

It is this Oc-speaking, goose fat-using tradition that defines “Confit Country.”

Confit country is divided roughly into regions where one type of meat predominates the confit preparations. Goose confit is associated with the Béarn and Basque regions with their classic specialties of cassoulet and garbure – hearty and earthy dishes of confit and beans. Saintonge and Brantôme feature duck confits, often with potatoes and truffles.

Non-waterfowl meats are frequently treated to the confit process, but are not classically considered true confits. The French refer to ‘true’ confits as “duck confit” (confit de canard) or “goose confit” (confit de oie); other meats poached in duck or goose fats are considered “in confit.” For example, chicken cooked in goose fat is called “poulet en confit.”

Each locality asserts theirs as the premier specimen of confiture and very vocal contentions can arise between proud cooks from different cities. Many towns have contests and festivals celebrating their versions of confit and the dishes it is part of.

Confit and its cooking partner, goose fat are celebrated at a fete held the first week of December in Castelnaudary. The festivity brings cooking competitions, featuring confit and cassoulet. Castelnaudary claims the creation of cassoulet, which, according to legend was concocted out of available ingredients during an English siege of the city (but don’t tell this to anyone from Toulouse or Carcassonne; they’ll say cassoulet was born in their city).

Why geese and ducks?

Waterfowl, unlike other birds, are built in such a way that they are perfect for preparation of confit. All birds can be roasted, braised or made into a stew, but ducks and geese come with a generous, savory layer of fat on their breasts and succulent dark meat in their legs which, when properly processed, create confit.

Confit is essentially two processes, salt curing the meat then slowly poaching it in fat.

In France a stoneware bowl, called a grésale, is used for the salt curing. The meat is surrounded with salt or brine and spices, and then is allowed to cure for a day or more. Once removed from the cure, the meat is slow cooked, usually in its own fat. Duck and goose fat melt at very low temperatures, so slow and gentle cooking of the meat is possible – making for a tender and moist product. When cooked, the meat is stored, covered with the cooking fat in bell-shaped earthenware pots, toupins, for up to six months. The solidified fat hermetically seals the meat, preventing spoilage.

A duck has just enough fat to confire its own two legs. It also provides the bones for a hearty duck stock and two delicious breasts. Geese can be similarly prepared, though – due primarily to the birds’ size – they require more fat. Their breasts and wings are often confired along with the legs. Pork is sometimes treated to the same salt and oil preservation method. I’ve included recipes for all three traditional confit meats in this book.

One could think that all this fat would saturate confit meat, making it greasy and full of calories. To the contrary, the slow cooking actually renders (melts) the fat in the meat. This interior fat migrates out of the meat and into the surrounding fat. Some of this fat gets absorbed back into the meat as it cools thus making confit meat only slightly higher in fat content than the raw meat

Duck and goose fat contain about 49 percent mono-unsaturated “good” fat. This compares favorably with olive oil. (Butter contains only 29 percent mono-unsaturated fat.)

Making confit is not complicated. The process, from raw bird to confit, is all about patience. Very few of the steps require cooking supervision, but nearly all of them need time either to develop flavor or to impart tenderness to the finished product. To create confit from scratch using traditional methods, you’ll need at least two days of off-and-on preparation time.

If you don’t have the time to make your own confit, it’s available from mail and Internet order sources and in some specialty markets. Commercial confit can be used in any of the recipes in this book and sources for its purchase are listed in the Resources section.. You may also be able to order confit and duck or goose fat from your butcher.

Goose confit is more common in France than duck or any other meat. Because ducks are more common in the United States, the waterfowl dishes I’ve included concentrate on them, also duck confit is easier to prepare in the home. Most of the truly French recipes, however, are still made with goose. You’ll find several classic French preparations here; Cassoulet, Garbure, and Confit à La Béarnaise (Goose Confit, in the style of Béarn), are all represented.

Other types of ‘confit’

Preservation of cured meats in oil is not strictly limited to the south of France. Other cultures, particularly those around the Mediterranean Sea, use similar methods. Oil is used to store sausages in the Basilicata region of Italy. Lebanese and Syrian foods include Qawrama - a form of lamb that is both cooked and kept in oil. Birds and waterfowl are cooked in, but not preserved in, oil in Morocco where they also make Khlea (sometimes spelled Qalaya), their own version of fat-preserved lamb.

Confit methods are not reserved solely for meats.

In the past few years, partially due to influences from the emergence of Nouvelle Cuisine, the realm of confits has broken the bounds of the traditional duck, goose and pork. Fish, rabbit and vegetables have made a welcome intrusion to the ambit of ancient waterfowl dishes.

Salmon prepared in the confit method is fantastic.

The slow, gentle cooking means that sometimes-tough rabbit legs are once again welcome at the table.

Contemporary menus include dishes prepared with “tomato confit” and “elephant garlic confit.” While these are not strictly confit, they are vegetables slow-poached in oil and are – in fact – delicious.

The vegetable confits discussed here should not be confused with vegetable and fruit “confiture,” which are thick preserves and jams made with large chunks of the product remaining. Many restaurant menus and cookbooks do not make this distinction, but it is an important one for our purposes.

Confit Food Safety

Confit is usually meat.

According to the Food and Drug Administration, foods rich in protein, such as meat, poultry, and seafood, are more frequently involved in food borne illnesses than non-protein-rich foods. This is because the source of the food is animals and animals carry bacteria in and on their bodies. Also, bacteria love the proteins in meat.

This concern is compounded because confit is generally aged, giving any bacteria present time to grow and prosper in your future dinner.

While vegetable confits don’t have the protein content of those made from meat, they still have the potential of falling victim to bacteria.

This said, I’ve never gotten ill from anybody’s confit.

The curing and poaching processes effectively kill nearly all harmful bugs. Confit’s submersion in solidified fat for storage helps keep any new yucky neighbors from moving in. If bacteria can’t breathe, it can’t live. The main exception to this is the botulism bug. This one doesn’t need oxygen, so the fat seal won’t keep it away. Your main defense against botulism is an impeccably clean food preparation area. (See “The Science of Confit”)

The following tips will help keep your confit safe:

- Always wash your hands with soap in warm running water for at least 20 seconds before and after handling raw meat..

- Use a different towel for your cooking surfaces than the one you use for your hands. Keep them separated.

- Use white kitchen towels and wash them in hot water with bleach. Fancy terry towels with butterflies, flowers or bunnies have no place in a food preparation area.

- Cutting boards, dishes, containers, and utensils should be washed with hot, soapy water before and after they come in contact with raw meat, poultry, or seafood. If possible, use a dishwasher instead of hand washing. Many modern dishwashers have a ‘sterilize’ cycle which is ideal for crocks that will store confit in the refrigerator.

- Separate raw meat, poultry, and seafood from other foods in your grocery-shopping cart, refrigerator, and while preparing and handling foods at home.

- Keep raw meats on the bottom shelf of your refrigerator, wrapped tightly in plastic or placed in a sealed zip-closure bag. Place the wrapped or bagged meat on a rimmed tray or in a bowl to catch anything that might escape from the plastic.

- Polyethylene cutting boards are safer than wooden ones. They can go through the dishwasher.

- Use one cutting board for raw meat products and another one for fresh fruits and vegetables. I use color-coded cutting boards to make sure I’m cutting on the correct surface.
The food industry has a standard color coding system that uses six colors: blue for cooked food, white for dairy, brown for seafood, green for fruits and vegetables, red for meat and yellow for poultry. I find this scheme a little cumbersome, but do use a white board for uncooked meats, seafood and poultry, a green board for uncooked fruits and vegetables and a tan board for cooked foods. All of these are polyethylene. I only use wooden boards for cooked foods.

- Place cooked food on a clean plate. If you put cooked food on an unwashed plate that previously held raw meat, poultry, or seafood, bacteria from the raw food could contaminate the cooked food.

- See the notes on safe handling of wild ducks in “Using Wild Ducks”.

Harmful bacteria, such as salmonella and Escherichia coli (E. coli) are killed at temperatures above 155° F. The confit process easily raises both the external and internal temperature of the meat above this, effectively ridding the meat of any live bacteria.

Storing confit in solidified fat keeps additional bacteria from getting into the food and also significantly reduces the amount of oxygen that gets into the meat. Salmonella and E. coli both need oxygen to survive.

High heat also kills Clostridium botulinum, the bacteria responsible for botulism. However, the danger in botulism is not the live organism, but the enzymes it leaves behind. Most cases of botulism come from home-canned foods because the bacteria grow in soil and affect mostly vegetables. Since the confit process is very similar to home canning, it is important that the botulism bacteria never get a chance to infect the confit.

The nasty thing about the botulism bugs is their choice of living environments. They like places that are moist with little oxygen - just like the confit you have in the fridge. It’s best to make sure the bacteria never gets into your confit jar in the first place. To help prevent botulism, always make certain your work surfaces, utensils, containers and hands are scrupulously clean. Additionally, any food should be removed from the temperature “danger zone” between 40° F. and 140° F. as quickly as possible, either by refrigeration or by heating.

Preparing Confit Jars

Glass canning jars or new, food-safe, crocks are the best containers for storing and aging confit. Gone are the days when it was considered safe to use an old jug from the cellar.

The United States Department of Agriculture suggests the following procedure to prepare jars for canning, and this process works well for preparing confit jars as well:

Before every use, wash empty jars in hot water with detergent and rinse well by hand, or wash in a dishwasher.

To sterilize empty jars after washing in detergent and rinsing thoroughly, submerge them, right side up, in a pot that is two inches taller than the jars. Fill the pot with enough warm water so it is 1 inch above the tops of the jars. Bring the water to a boil, and boil 10 minutes at altitudes of less than 1,000 ft. At higher elevations, boil 1 additional minute for each additional 1,000 ft elevation. Reduce the heat under the pot, and keep the jars in the hot water until it is time to fill them. Remove and drain hot sterilized jars one at a time and fill them with poached confit as described in the recipe.

Getting confit out of the jar

So, if the fat in a confit jar is supposed to help protect the food, how do you safely remove two pieces of duck leg for a casual dinner with your closest friend? The easiest way, and the safest, is to re-melt the fat in the crock, remove the amount of confit you need with clean tongs, and then return the crock to the fridge. As a bonus of this procedure, the fat is once again brought to a temperature that will kill any new bacteria.

Here’s what I do:

1. Put the crock in a 250° F. oven until the fat is completely melted.

2. Remove the amount of confit I want using tongs (both to prevent any bugs on my hands from getting into the fat and to keep the hot fat from getting on my hands).

3. Keep the crock in the oven for another ten minutes to allow the confit to benefit from the heat. (This will both develop the confit flavor and help do away with any surface bacteria.)

4. Remove the crock and allow it to cool to room temperature.

5. Put the crock back in the fridge.

If, at any time, the fat or confit do not smell like freshly cooked duck, pork or whatever, I immediately throw the entire batch away. Foul smells are indications of spoilage.

The Science of Confit

Any prepared food is both an art and a science. The art lets us be creative and imaginative. The science lets us produce consistent results each time we prepare something.

So, here’s our Cooking Science lesson for today:

Cooking causes chemical and physical changes in food. These changes serve several purposes; to make the food taste better, to make it tender and to ward of any bacteria that may be lurking on or within it. Each of these aspects requires heat. The temperatures needed vary according to the purpose.

Tenderization can happen at relatively low cooking temperatures, sometimes barely above 120° F. Taste enhancement generally involves caramelization or the introduction of salt or flavorings. While caramelization requires relatively high temperatures, salt and flavors seep into food as soon as it is warmed and its fibers start to expand. Bacteria is killed somewhere in between tenderization and caramelization.

In the case of confit, all three processes are at work to produce a tender, flavorful product that contains almost no bacteria.

In order to understand how each of them contributes to the final succulent morsels, we need to refer to some culinary chemistry tidbits.

Meat is, in general, muscle tissue. A duck, goose, pig or any other animal uses this tissue to walk, fly and do anything else where movement is involved. Muscles are attached to bones by tendons. Proteins contained in the muscles and tendons are the building blocks of the tissues.

Long protein fibers, actin and myosin, give muscles their ability to contract, thus pulling on the tendons and, in turn, drawing bones closer together. In general, there are two different types of muscle; that which is used for short, quick movement and that which is designed for sustained activity. Each type of muscle is ‘fed’ by a different chemical process.

Quick muscles use glucose from the animal’s blood. Glucose is used more or less directly by the muscle. Muscles for sustained activity get their energy from fat, but need the additional help of a protein called myoglobin to oxidize the fat before it can be used.

Because myoglobin is red, muscles that use it are darker in color. In the case of ducks and geese, both the legs and the breast muscles do a lot of work, so they are dark. Chicken breast meat is lighter because the muscles there are not used as much.

The tendons and other tissues that connect the muscles to bones need to be strong in order to stay connected under the stress of moving the bones. Connective tissue is built from another protein, collagen. Meat from high-energy muscles has more collagen. This makes high energy muscles tougher.

Heat from cooking breaks down the proteins. Proteins begin to tenderize at quite low cooking temperatures. Myosin shrinks and presses fluid out of the muscle starting at about 130° F. and collagen molecules begin reacting at 140 to 150° F.

Myosin’s shrinking makes cooked meat firm, while collagen breaks down into gelatin. The shrinking happens fairly quickly, but the collagen-to-gelatin reaction is a long-term process., and occurs as the meat cooks for a long time at a low temperature. Pot roasts and other braises use this technique to tenderize tougher cuts of meat. As the roast cooks, the collagen turns into gelatin. The meat gets more tender and the gelatin thickens the braising liquid into a sauce.

In the case of confit, the low oil temperature during the poaching accomplishes the same purpose - especially on the cuts of meat that are most commonly used for confit. Duck and goose leg meat is rich in collagen and is a prime candidate for long, slow cooking. The slightly higher temperature of fat poaching (as opposed to water or broth poaching) results in more of the collagen breaking down and an increase in tenderness.

Oil also helps retain the natural flavor of the meat. Because a large part of meat’s inherent flavor is in fat, poaching in that fat enhances the product’s taste instead of diluting it - as can happen when poaching in water. (Poaching in a flavored broth replaces or adds to the meat’s taste, but does not reinforce the savor already present in the food.)

One potential drawback of the confit method is the lack of a different, important flavoring component - browning. Poaching meat in low-temperature fat does not brown the surface or skin. Traditional recipes remedy this by browning the skin of confit legs just before serving.

When meat is fried or roasted, the surface temperature rises above the boiling temperature of 212° F. At this point, a sugar called ribose in the meat cells begin to combine with amino acids, also in the cells. Amino acids are the basic component of proteins. This happens because heated proteins break down and release their individual components. These components react with the ribose.

The reactions between the sugars and proteins are called the Maillard reaction and are responsible for all food-related browning, from the crust on bread to the darkening of sugar into caramel candy. They also are a prime component of any cooked food’s taste.

Confit right out of the jar is good; browned confit is better, thanks to the Maillard reaction. Not all of the recipes presented in this book use this technique, but it can be an important one for dishes where the earthy and comforting flavors of browning are desired.

Aside from tenderization and flavoring, the last primary reason we cook food is to kill harmful bacteria. This aspect has been particularly important in the history of confit. Cooking the meat in fat kills the bacteria; storing the meat in the same fat keeps any new bacteria from entering the meat. (See Confit Food Safety).

This brings our Cooking Science lesson to a close.

As a conclusion, we’ve learned how temperatures and cooking methods contribute to the flavor, texture and food safety of the confit process.

Please close your notebooks and prepare for a quiz...

Or - for more practical experience - start making your own delicious, sensuous confit.

Recently, antique confit pots have seen a resurgence on the collectibles market. Pots from the late 1800’s routinely sell for more than $200. Thankfully, true toupins and grésales are not required in confit preparation; an ordinary glass jar works just fine.

Duck Preparation

Our journey through the world of confit starts with its most common component, duck. This transformation progresses from a raw duck to finished confit. As noted earlier, it is possible to purchase ready-made confit. Making your own from scratch, however, provides a fresher product and gives you final control over the flavors in the meat. You can choose to create a mild version, using only thyme as the flavoring or a robust style with bay leaves and perhaps even mustard seed. In addition to spices and flavorings, you have total control over the curing, poaching and aging processes. The choices are infinite.

Duck confit is no more difficult to make than a pot roast – in fact, it’s easier. It just takes a little more time (Some chefs even advocate cooking confit in an electric crockery cooker, just like a pot roast. I prefer the more controllable method of oven cooking.)

Although it is possible to make confit with only one duck, the process is more efficient with two or even three. If you don’t want to purchase whole ducks, buy only the legs; you won’t get all of the delectable additional benefits (stock, breasts, cracklings), but the confit will be the same.

Choose domestic ducks such as Muscovy (called Barbarie or Barbary in Europe). Domestic birds are milder in flavor than wild ducks and have more fat. Most stores sell the more common Pekin or “Long Island” duck, or the Moulard – a cross of the Muscovy and Pekin breeds – which can be used in a pinch. The recipes in this book work best with ducks weighing 4 to 5 pounds (Moulards routinely weight 6 to 8 pounds).

If you have wild birds on hand, they will make good confit, but they’ll need additional fat in the poaching. Nearly any wild species can be made into confit, depending mostly on the duck’s diet and size. Canvasback, gadwall and black ducks have varied diets and are large enough to successfully confire. Scoter ducks should be avoided – their diet of fish makes their flesh taste odd.

Mature ducks are better than ducklings, as they have more flavor and their meats – being firmer – are less prone to falling apart when cooked. Try, however, to obtain ducks that are no more than 16 weeks old.

Recently, the American market has seen an emergence of genuine French duck breeds such as Duclair and Rouen Clair (sometimes called a Rhone Claire). These French breeds are considerably more expensive, but yield a truly remarkable confit. If you use the French birds, you’ll have to purchase extra duck fat, as they don’t have enough fat to properly confit their legs.

Either fresh or frozen ducks can be used. If using frozen ducks, allow them to thaw thoroughly under refrigeration before starting any of the following procedures. Thawing may take up to 48 hours, so plan ahead.

If you have purchased whole ducks, start your confit preparation here. If you have only legs, start with Master Confit Recipes. Two methods for getting the duck ready for confit are included here: a modern and traditional one. The modern one ignores the classic cuts of the duck and leaves you with four larger pieces - the wings attached to the breasts and the legs attached to the thighs. The traditional one separates the wings and breasts and allows you to leave the carcass primarily whole. This method is better if you plan to make duck stock or cracklings or intend to use the breasts separately. Both methods start with unpackaging and cleaning the duck.

Unpackaging and cleaning the duck:

Remove the neck and any packaged organs from the duck and wash the carcass, inside and out, with warm water. Drain the duck and pat it dry with paper towels. You may want to save and freeze the gizzards, in order to build a stockpile of them for gésiers de canard confits - Duck Gizzard Confit.

Check the base of the tail for any sebaceous glands. (These are usually yellowish and fatty and are located to either side of the last two, fused vertebrae - or pygosytle.) Remove the glands if they are present; they can add an unpleasant taste to any further preparations. Rub the gland area with lemon juice and salt to assure that any lingering taste of the glands will be removed. (The meat in the tip of the tail is called the parson’s nose in England or the croupion in France. In the 18th century, it was a prized part of the bird, often saved for guests at Sunday dinner, in many cases, the visiting parson.)

Dry the duck with paper towels.

Once the duck is clean, proceed with either the modern or traditional method for cutting the duck apart.

For the modern method:

Place the duck on the cutting board with the backbone side up. With a good pair of kitchen shears, cut the wings off at the first joint. Save the wing tips for use in making stock.

Turn the duck so the neck end is facing toward you. Again with the shears, cut along one side of the backbone, as close to the backbone as possible and through the ribs all the way to the tail. Turn the duck around and cut along the other side of the backbone all the way to the neck end, removing the backbone and neck in one piece. Save the backbone for use in stock.

Turn the duck over so the breast is up. Press down on the duck and pull the sides that were just cut from the backbone out so the duck is flayed flat on the cutting board.

Use the kitchen shears to cut the bird in two along the central breast from the neck to tail end. (The breastbone will get in the way. Simply cut right through it.)

You should now have two duck halves.

Lay each half on the cutting board with the skin side up.

In this position, a clear delineation between the bottom of the breast and the thigh/leg should appear. On a person, this delineation would be the waist.

Using a semi-circular cut and following the line of the waist, separate the breast from the thigh/leg. Repeat this cut on the other duck half.

You should now have four pieces of duck: two pieces with the back/breast/wing and two with the thigh/leg.

Reserve the breast pieces for another use. The leg pieces can now be used to make confit.

For the traditional method:

To remove the leg (drumsticks and thighs), grab hold of one of the duck’s legs and lift straight up until the body of the duck is barely resting on the cutting board. This will pull the leg away from the body and you will be able to see where the skin is stretched between the body and the thigh. Cut the skin halfway between the body and thigh, starting with the part of the skin that is closest to the wing. A visible natural separation between the thigh and body will appear.

Continue to cut the skin until only the meat and joint are holding the thigh to the body.

Next, lay the duck back down on the cutting board and replace the leg to its natural position, with the “knee” toward the wing. Grasp the knee and pull up and back - toward the tail, cracking the hip joint.

Pulling the leg away from the body, cut the sinew that attaches the thighbone to the hip, then continue pulling backward, removing the leg from the body.

Trim any flaps of skin from the removed leg and reserve.

Repeat this process for the second leg.

Before removing the breasts, you can optionally remove the wishbone (technically called the clavicle), which will make it easier to get the breasts off. Unlike the “V” shaped wishbone on a chicken or turkey, a duck wishbone is shaped like a flattened arch. To remove it, place the duck breast-side up on the cutting board. Feel for the wishbone at the front of the breasts just above the opening where the neck attaches. Use a small sharp knife to trace the outline of the wishbone then use your fingers to pry the bone out.

To remove the breasts, make a cut along the breastbone from the front of the duck to the back. Slide your knife into the incision, just to one side of the breastbone and cut down along the bone. Repeat this cut, deepening the incision with each stroke until the breast is free of the carcass. Remove the other breast in the same manner.

Trim and reserve any skin and fat that extends beyond the edge of the breast meat.

Clean the carcass of remaining pieces of fat and skin at the neck and tail ends.

Include the wings in your confit preparations - they make an excellent snack - or use them in stock.

Save this fat and skin for use in cracklings.

Finishing the French Way

Regardless of which method you use to cut up your bird, you can add a final touch of elegance to the legs by “Frenching” them. Since the bottom of the legs nearest the feet have almost no meat and are mostly sinew and skin and because that skin becomes flabby and the sinew tough when the legs are cooked, French chefs remove the skin and sinew from the end of the leg.

To do this, simply make a cut down to the bone around the leg at the point where the meat ends, then use the knife to scrape all of the skin off the bone from that point down to the end of the bone.

Some cooks go one step further and use a large knife cut the knob of the leg joint off the end of the bone. I don’t do this because I dislike the jagged bone end it leaves.

The first edition of this book naively assumed you’d be getting your duck as it comes from the supermarket, plucked and packaged.

Many of you have noted, however, that you want to use wild ducks.

If you will be starting with a bird fresh from the sky instead of fresh from the refrigerator case, start with the notes “Using Wild Ducks”, otherwise, start here.

A faster thawing method can be used.

Place the duck in a bowl or pot large enough to contain the entire bird, with two inches of clearance on all sides.

Place a couple of sturdy table knives in the bottom of your kitchen sick. Put the container on top of the knives. Weigh the duck down with a colander or strainer filled with additional cutlery.

Run cold water into the container and over the duck for about four to six hours. (Do not use warm water, as it may allow the duck to remain at temperatures where bacteria grow.)

Rendering Duck Fat

Duck fat is important to the confit process and adds flavor to a variety of sautéed foods. Duck fat can be purchased in canned form, but it is better fresh.

Makes about 1 cup

Skin and fat from at least 1 duck carcass

Cut the skin into 1/2 inch wide strips.

Place the skin and fat into a wide and deep sauté pan. Add 1 cup of water to the pan.

Bring the contents of the pan to a boil then reduce the heat to a strong simmer.

Simmer the skin and fat until all of the fat has liquefied.

Strain the liquid through a colander into a large bowl to separate the skin, which you may reserve for cracklings.

Place the bowl in the refrigerator, uncovered, and allow it to cool until the duck fat solidifies.

Remove the solidified fat from the bowl and place it in an airtight container for future use. Discard the water.

Reusing the fat:

After making confit, you can reuse duck fat two or three times.

To do so:

Add a couple tablespoons of water to the fat in a large pot. Reheat the fat in a clean pan until it has melted completely and the water has boiled away. Keep heating for an additional ten minutes, but do not bring it to a boil. (The water is important - it assures that the fat has risen above the temperature where bacteria is killed.)

Strain the fat through a colander to remove any meat or spice pieces.

Strain the melted fat again through a metal chinois or a large mesh strainer lined with four or more layers of cheesecloth into a clean, sealable container. Allow the fat to cool in the container, cover and refrigerate it for up to a month.

Duck fat is used frequently to sauté sliced potatoes, but is also good as part of the oil in a flavorful vinaigrette for a winter salad of sturdy greens.

Simply substitute the melted duck fat (it is liquid at room temperature, anyway) for half of the oil in your favorite dressing recipe.

Cracklings

Cracklings are fantastic in salads and as garnish elements for duck and other wild game dishes.

Makes about 1 cup

Duck skin, cut into 1/2 inch strips

4 tablespoons duck fat

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Melt the duck fat in a heavy sauté pan, add the strips of skin and sauté until the pieces are medium brown and no longer pliable. Do not crowd the pan. If you have more skin strips than will fit in a loose single layer, then fry your cracklings in batches.

Remove the skin pieces from the pan and allow them to drain on paper towels.

Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Crack the strips into smaller pieces, if desired.

Duck Stock

As with any stock, that made from duck is essentially bones and vegetables, simmered to release their flavor. Use quality ingredients for your stock, and you’ll get quality results. Many cooks – tempted by thrift – include vegetables that are better suited for the compost heap in their stock. These leftovers lack flavor and add little to the final result.

Makes about 8 cups

3 pounds duck bones

Duck necks (as many as you have, up to four) cut in chunks - optional

1 cup roughly chopped carrot

1 onion, quartered

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 tomato, chopped and seeded or 1 teaspoon tomato paste

2 cups zinfandel or pinot noir wine

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

Preheat oven to 450° F.

Place the bones in a roasting pan and roast them in the oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden brown, turning occasionally to promote even browning.

Place the duck necks (if you’re using them), carrots, and onion in a large stock pot, along with the oil. Sauté over high heat until the edges of the vegetables are caramelized. Add the tomato and cook for two minutes.

Add the Zinfandel and stir to scrape any solids from the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking until only a thin layer of wine remains in the bottom of the pan.

Add the browned bones, bay leaf, and peppercorns.

Add just enough cold water to cover the pot’s contents.

Bring the contents slowly to a simmer, and then reduce the heat until the stock is barely simmering – with just a couple of bubbles breaking the surface at a time.

Simmer for 4 hours, skimming occasionally to remove scum and fat from the surface.

Strain the liquid through a very fine sieve and allow it to cool, uncovered, in the refrigerator. When cool, remove any fat that has come to the surface, (save this fat for making the confit, or for sautéing potatoes).

Cover the stock and store refrigerated for two days or freeze for up to two months.

The stock can also be clarified and/or reduced to a glaze once strained (see recipe, page 21).

Where’s the celery?

You may have noticed a change in this recipe from the version in the first edition of this book. I’ve removed the celery from the ingredients list. This change happened quite by accident. I made a batch of stock one day when there was no celery in the house. I found that the stock without the celery was slightly sweeter and did not have any bitter overtones when the stock was reheated.

I’ve decided to leave celery out of all my stocks from now on.

Always cool stock to refrigerator temperature uncovered. A covered stock can develop off flavors and even turn rancid.

As soon as the stock has cooled, cover it.

If you will be freezing your stock, make sure to float a piece of plastic wrap on the top of the liquid as it freezes. This will seal the stock from contact with air and prevent ice crystals from forming on the surface of the stock.

Clarified Duck Stock

Classically used as a refined soup, clarified stock, or consommé also creates very clean and clear aspic and sauces.

Makes about 8 cups

1 cup cold water

3/4 pound very lean ground beef (or 3/4 pound very lean ground duck breast)

4 egg whites

1 cup sliced leek or scallion greens

1/2 cup coarsely chopped Italian flat leaf parsley leaves

3/4 cup sliced carrots

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

8 cups cold duck stock

Add all ingredients except the stock to a cold large stock pot and mix them together. The combined ingredients should look like a very loose meat loaf.

Add the stock and bring to a boil over very high heat, stirring constantly to keep the solids moving. (The stock will become cloudy as the egg whites solidify.)

Once the stock comes to a boil, stop stirring and reduce heat to a gentle simmer. Scoot the pot to the edge of the burner. Because the pot is on the side of the burner, the heated liquid will form a circular convection pattern in the pot. The solid ingredients will float to the top and form a crust (or raft) and the convection pattern will pass the liquid through the raft and filter the stock. Do not stir or disturb the raft during the simmering process.

Simmer the stock for 15 to 30 minutes, and then turn off the heat. Allow the stock to settle and cool for an additional 15 minutes.

Very gently ladle the stock through a coffee filter, being careful not to break up or damage the raft. If the filter becomes clogged, replace it with a fresh one.

Cool the filtered stock uncovered in the refrigerator; it will solidify into a gelatin.

Once cooled, remove any floating fat by skimming the surface with a paper towel.

Cooled stock should be covered and can be stored in the refrigerator for two days or frozen for two months.

These instructions can be used to clarify any home-made stock. If clarifying beef or chicken stock, use ground beef in the raft, not ground duck breast.

Reduced Duck Stock

Either clarified or unclarified stock can be reduced to intensify its flavor and increase its thickness.

Makes about 4 cups

8 cups duck stock

1 cup port wine (optional)

Place the stock (and wine, if used) in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat.

Reduce the heat and simmer the stock until reduced by half.

Cool the reduced stock uncovered in the refrigerator.

Once cooled, cover the stock and store in the refrigerator for two days or freeze for two months.

Perk up the flavor of your reduced stock by adding a few carrot pieces, a quartered onion and a bay leaf to the last few minutes of simmering.

Remove the vegetables before cooling the stock.

Using Wild Ducks

Wild ducks make excellent confit. As noted earlier, wild ducks are leaner than domestic ones, but that doesn’t mean they are dry or lack flavor. Quite the opposite. When properly prepared, a wild duck makes excellent confit that has an extra boost of flavor from a more varied diet than its domestic cousin.

That varied diet, however, can also mean that a usually excellent species can occasionally have a member that tastes like river mud. If a bird has been eating off-tasting things, its meat will be tainted with the flavor.

It’s best to make confit from ducks that paddle around on the surface of the water and eat primarily vegetation. Ducks that dive for food on the marsh bottom generally don’t work as well. Look at the duck’s bill. If the bill is rounded and smooth, it eats grains and vegetation, if it’s pointed and jagged it eats fish. Avoid the fish-eaters.

Here’s a list of species and how I feel about their candidacy for confit:

Usually Good

Maybe OK

Probably Yucky

Mallard

Lesser Scaup^2

Scoter

Black Duck

Greater Scaup^2

Goldeneye

Wood Duck^1

Gadwall

Bufflehead

Teal1

Hooded Merganser

American Merganser

Widgeon

Ruddy Duck

Red Merganser

Pintail

Old Squaw

1A little too small for the recipes in this book, but still quite good.

2Can be strong tasting.

Thankfully, it’s easy to tell if a duck’s meat is going to make good confit. The breasts of a duck are usually consumed first. If a duck’s breasts are good, then the legs and thighs will be fine also.

Field care

Careful care of ducks in the field will increase appreciation of them at the table. Follow these simple guidelines, and your hunted duck will be a special confit experience for your guests.

- Keep your birds well separated. Don’t pile them up in the blind or pack them into a rubber game pocket. Keeping them separate will allow them to cool faster and keep them fresh longer.

- In warm weather, keep your birds in an iced cooler.

- Field dressing ducks is usually not necessary, unless they are badly shot up or if the weather is above 50°.

- When you field dress, leave the head on (some laws require this for duck identification by wildlife officials).

Field Dressing

If you decide to field dress your ducks, cool the body heat from the birds as quickly as possible and keep that temperature down until the birds are cleaned.

To dress the bird, pull out the feathers along the center of the breast from below the breast bone to the anal vent. Then make a cut through the skin and muscle from the bottom of the breast bone, continuing down to the anal opening. Reach in and remove the internal organs, pulling down toward the anal opening. Try not to rupture any of the organs, particularly the bladder and liver. Be sure to take out the windpipe and crop.

Hanging

Duck flavor benefits from a brief hanging under refrigeration before the bird is plucked and cut up. Hang the duck, head-up in a refrigerator for about three days.

Plucking

Most hunters use one of these two methods to get the feathers off their birds:

- Dry plucking – Grab the bird by both feet and let in hang down. Start with the tail and, pulling the feathers against their lay or grain pull the feathers out. Since this method usually leaves some down and stubs of small feathers, use a propane torch to burn these off.

- Scalding – Heat a large pot of water to near boiling. Immerse the bird completely in the hot water two or three times to make sure it’s thoroughly saturated (but not so much as to start cooking it). Use the same plucking technique as above. The blowtorch probably won’t be necessary with this method.

After the duck is plucked, it’s ready for the instructions in “Unpackaging and cleaning the duck:”

Master Confit Recipes

Duck Confit

Use duck as a springboard to establish your very own confit legacy. With its relatively mild taste and infinite versatility, duck provides a platform for both success and experimentation.

I encourage you to try at least the classic and aged confit recipes in this chapter. If you’re more adventurous, then go for the canned method. And, don’t forget to work with variations in your spice mix. I’ve provided a starting point, but your personal tastes must play a part in the spices you choose.

For a truly transcendental addition to salads, the duck gizzards are my favorite. A single duck won’t have enough gizzards to make the recipe, but these morsels freeze well. Simply build your stockpile in the freezer, then make the confit when you have a sufficient supply.

Duck Confit Master Recipe

(Confit de Canard)

This method uses conventional curing ingredients with a newfangled twist – using a zip-closure bag as the curing container. The bag makes for less mess and facilitates turning the duck, promoting even curing.

This recipe scales easily. It can be divided to prepare fewer legs or multiplied to increase the amount of resulting product. In the curing stage, the ratio of salt and sugar is most important. If you reduce the size of the recipe, you can still use whole sprigs of herbs with the smaller batch.

Makes 6 duck legs

6 duck legs (domestic, preferably Muscovy/Barbarie)

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of duck legs

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

32 ounces duck fat (or at least 16 ounces duck fat and enough added extra-virgin olive oil to cover the poaching duck legs)

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

You’ll also need:

1 (1 gallon) zip-closure freezer bag

An instant-reading meat thermometer

To cure the duck:

Weigh the duck legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place a layer of duck legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of each herb on top of the duck legs.

Place a layer of salt on top and repeat layers, ending with a layer of salt.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the duck:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Melt the duck fat in a large casserole over low heat.

Remove the duck legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs.

Carefully place the duck legs into the melted duck fat, adding the fresh herbs as well. Add olive oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Cover the casserole and bake the duck in oil in the 250° F. oven, monitoring the temperature of the oil with an instant-read meat thermometer. When the temperature of the oil reaches 190° F., turn the oven down and cook the duck for 4 1/2 to 6 hours, maintaining an even 190° F. oil temperature.

Remove the herbs and allow the duck to cool in the oil until it is cool enough to handle safely.

Place the confit pieces in sterile jars (for instructions on sterilizing jars, See “Preparing Confit Jars”). Pour enough melted fat over the pieces to cover them by at least a half inch.

Allow the confit to cool in the refrigerator, uncovered.

Store the confit, submerged in its oil and covered in the refrigerator for up to 4 weeks.

Herbs listed here can successfully be replaced by what you have on hand. Thyme works well in place of the rosemary. Juniper berries can be added. You can even use non-traditional flavorings such as Darjeeling tea for unique tastes.

For the poaching, you only need enough fat to cover the meat, so (although I give a quantity here) the amount needed may vary from batch to batch.

While the confit process is very forgiving, it is important to monitor the poaching process with a little care. If the temperature of the oil goes above 190° for more than a few minutes, the quality of the confit will be affected.
Conversely, if the oil is not hot enough, the confit will not cook completely.

Extraordinary Aged Duck Confit

This version of confit takes two months to blossom into a premier example of the art of confit. It is well worth the wait. The method truly takes advantage of the classical techniques for confit preparation, including the extended preservation aspects which allow for a mellow transformation in the flavor of the meat that cannot be replicated by other means and are far too often ignored today.

Makes 4 Duck Legs

2 Pair aged Rouen Claire or Duclair duck legs (with thighs attached)

About 3 Tablespoons kosher salt

2 teaspoons coarsely chopped shallots

2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon black peppercorns, lightly crushed

1 Bay leaf, crumbled

1/2 teaspoon coarsely chopped garlic

1 Sprig fresh thyme, chopped

3 - 4 cups duck fat

1 - 2 cups lard

1 head garlic

2 whole cloves

1 Tablespoon kosher salt

2 Cups lard (additional)

You’ll also need:

Wooden chopsticks

A two -quart porcelain crock with vertical sides that is taller than it is wide

To cure the duck:

Weigh the duck legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt with the shallots, parsley, peppercorns, bay leaf, minced garlic, and thyme in a large zip-closure bag. Refrigerate 18 to 24 hours.

To poach the duck:

After 18 to 24 hours, remove the duck legs from the salt and rinse them under cold running water. Pat the legs dry.

Place the duck legs in a 2 quart, very heavy pot such as enameled cast-iron casserole. Add 3 to 4 cups of duck fat and enough lard to fill the pot to within two and a half inches from the top. (The exact amount of lard will vary according to the shape of your pot.)

Place any remaining lard in a heavy saucepan.

Slowly melt the fats in both the casserole and saucepan over low heat.

When the fats have melted, slip the duck legs into the casserole. If necessary, ladle in melted lard from the saucepan to ensure that the duck pieces are completely covered by fat.

Split the head of garlic in half crosswise and stick a whole clove in each half. Add the garlic to the melted fat.

Over very low heat, uncovered, bring fat to temperature of 190° F. This should take about 1 hour. The slow heating is very important. It keeps the duck meat from getting stringy.

Hold the fat temperature at 190° F. and poach the duck pieces for an additional hour and a half or just until the thickest part of the thigh is done.

Remove the casserole from the heat. Let the duck cool in the fat for 1 hour, then remove the duck with a slotted spoon and place it on a rack to drain.

To clarify the oil:

Remove any meat or skin pieces from the fat with a strainer.

Place the casserole with the strained fat back on the stove. Heat the casserole over medium-high heat until it reaches 250° F. The fat will begin to bubble and spatter, indicating that any water-based impurities it has picked up from the duck is boiling away. (These impurities can cause the fat to go rancid or spoil during long-term storage and thus could potentially taint your confit.) Keep the fat at this temperature until the spattering stops, skimming any foam from the top. (Do not allow the fat to get so hot that it smokes or burns. This will ruin the fat and you’ll have to discard it.)

To prepare the crock:

Remove the casserole from the heat and allow it to cool for 30 minutes.

Pour boiling water into the crock; swirl and discard. Thoroughly dry the crock.

While the crock is warm, place 1/2 teaspoon salt in bottom of each crock; this prevents meat juices that may seep from duck during ripening process from turning sour. Cut the chopsticks into lengths that will fit crosswise in the bottom of the crock. Lay the chopstick pieces in the bottom of the crock to form a crisscross platform upon which you will set the duck pieces.

To preserve the duck:

From the heated casserole, ladle bubbling clear top fat through fine-mesh strainer into each crock, covering the chopstick pieces. Be sure not to use the more perishable cloudy fat and meat juices at the bottom of the casserole. Fill the crock about half way with oil.

Slip the warm pieces of confit into the fat. Do not pack the pieces and fill the crock only to within an inch and a half from the top.

Ladle additional clear fat over the confit pieces, filling the crock to about one inch from the top. Rap the crock gently on the counter to work out any trapped air bubbles.

Let the confit-filled crock cool, uncovered, to room temperature. Cover the crock with plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight.

The next day, melt the additional two cups of lard over a low fire.

Carefully spoon the melted lard on top of the congealed duck fat in the crock, sealing it.

Cover the crock with parchment paper, tied with string or held in place with rubber bands. (Do not use waxed paper or plastic wrap. The preserved confit needs to breathe a little during the curing process.)

Allow the confit to ripen, refrigerated for up to two months. Do not freeze, as this will inhibit the ripening process and dry out the confit.

Use this recipe when the confit is the centerpiece of a meal. You’ll be rewarded with a once in a lifetime experience (until, of course, your next batch is ready).
The curing, poaching and preparation of the duck will take about an hour of work on three successive days, so plan ahead.

To remove the confit from the crock, place the crock in a bath of warm water for a few hours until the fat has softened.

Once you have broken the lard seal, the confit should be used within a week, as it will be more perishable.

Wild Duck Confit

Wild ducks are more robust than their domestic cousins. Thus, the confit method for them differs slightly. I use more assertive herbs in the cure to match the full-bodied nature of the meat.
Since wild ducks don’t have as much fat and because their fat is strong in taste, I use more subtle oil for the poaching.

Makes 6 duck legs

6 wild duck legs

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of duck legs

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

1 sprig thyme

1/2 sprig savory

2 bay leaves

6 cloves

1 tablespoon juniper berries, lightly crushed

32 ounces extra virgin olive oil

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

1 bay leaf

You’ll also need:

1 (1 gallon) zip-closure freezer bag

To cure the duck:

Weigh the duck legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place a layer of duck legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of each herb, 1 bay leaf, 1/2 of the cloves and 1/2 of the juniper berries on top of the duck legs. Place a layer of salt on top and repeat layers, ending with a layer of salt.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the duck:

Preheat the oven to 200° F.

Remove the duck legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs.

Put the olive oil in a flameproof casserole over very low heat. Carefully place the duck legs into the oil, adding the fresh herbs as well. Add olive oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Melt the duck fat in a large casserole over low heat.

Cover the casserole and bake the duck in oil in the 250° F. oven, monitoring the temperature of the oil with an instant-read meat thermometer. When the temperature of the oil reaches 190° F., turn the oven down and cook the duck for 4 1/2 to 6 hours, maintaining an even 190° F. oil temperature.

Remove the herbs and allow the duck to cool in the oil.

Wild duck confit is best used fresh but can be stored in duck fat just as for the Duck Confit Master Recipe.

As noted earlier, canvasback, gadwall and black ducks are particularly good as confit. Mallard can also be used. Scoter ducks should be avoided – their diet of fish makes their flesh taste odd.

See the notes on using wild ducks in “Using Wild Ducks”.

Duck Gizzard Confit

(Gésiers de Canard en Confit)

Duck gizzards are commonly available canned in France. Stateside cooks find them via mail order and in gourmet markets. Like any other delicacy, however, they are always better when homemade.

Makes 20 Gizzards

20 duck gizzards, trimmed of fat and connecting tissue

2 cups duck fat

1 bay leaf

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 cloves garlic, crushed

Preheat the oven to 200º F.

Wash the gizzards in warm water and pat them dry.

Place the cleaned gizzards, duck fat, bay leaf, thyme and garlic in an oven proof casserole that is just large enough to hold the entire contents.

Place the casserole on a baking sheet and cover it.

Bake the gizzards for 2 to 3 hours, until they are cooked through.

When the gizzards are cooked, remove the bay leaf, thyme and garlic.

Cool the gizzards in the fat and refrigerate them, covered for up to six weeks.

Confit duck gizzards (unlike most other meat confits) freezes very well.

To freeze the gizzards, remove them from their cooled fat and place them in a zip-closure freezer bag, pressing as much air out of the bag as possible. They will keep frozen this way for up to six months.

Canned Country Confit

In the country in the Ariège region of the Pyrenees, a unique sort of canned confit is prepared including both duck meat and gizzards.

This confit is then put through an additional process - canning - to ensure its longevity in the pantry.

I’m not convinced that the canning is necessary, but it does lend a unique, cultured, flavor to the confit.

Makes 2 Quarts

6 duck legs (domestic, preferably Muscovy/Barbarie)

6 duck gizzards, cleaned and cut in half

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of duck legs

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

32 ounces duck fat (or at least 16 ounces duck fat and enough added extra-virgin olive oil to cover the poaching duck legs)

16 additional ounces of unused duck fat, for canning

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

You’ll also need:

2 quart-sized canning jars with new lids and sealing rings

A pressure canner with rack

Aluminum foil, cut in 2 inch strips

A canning funnel

To cure the duck:

Weigh the duck legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place a layer of duck legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of each herb on top of the duck legs.

Place a layer of salt on top and repeat layers, ending with a layer of salt.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the duck:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Melt the first 32 ounces of duck fat in a large casserole over low heat.

Remove the duck legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs.

Carefully place the duck legs into the melted duck fat, adding the fresh herbs as well. Add olive oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Cover the casserole and bake the duck in oil in the 250° F. oven, monitoring the temperature of the oil with an instant-read meat thermometer. When the temperature of the oil reaches 190° F., turn the oven down and cook the duck for 4 1/2 to 6 hours, maintaining an even 190° F. oil temperature. After two hours of cooking, add the gizzards to the cooking duck.

Test the gizzards for doneness by inserting a wooden skewer into them. If they are tender, they are done. If they are not done, continue to cook the gizzards and duck until the gizzards are tender.

Remove the duck and gizzards from the poaching oil and allow them to drain on a wire rack. Do not allow them to cool.

Canning the confit:

While the legs and gizzards are draining, heat the unused duck fat to 150° F. in a large pot.

Separate the duck legs from the thighs to make the pieces easier to pack into the quart-sized canning jars.

Prepare the canner, jars, lids and rings according to the manufacturer’s directions for ‘hot pack’ canning. Crimp the strips of aluminum foil over the top edge of the jars to prevent fat from getting on the rim. (Be sure the jars are sterile and are still hot before proceeding to the next step.)

Pack the duck legs and gizzards loosely into the canning jars, leaving at least 1 1/2 inch of headspace.

Using a canning funnel, carefully ladle the hot duck fat over the meat, leaving one inch of headspace. If any of the meat is still above the surface of the fat, either rearrange it or remove a piece or two. No meat should appear above the surface of the fat.

While filling the jars, it is very important that no fat gets on the rim of the jar. Fat will prevent a proper seal. If any fat gets on the rim, you must re-clean and re-sterilize the jar.

Remove the aluminum foil from the jar rims. Check again for fat on the rims.

Place the lids and rings on the jars per the manufacturer’s directions.

Process the jars in a pressure canner using the following chart for 90 minutes.

Canner Pressure

Dial Gauge, up to 2000 ft. elevation*

11 pounds

Weighted Gauge, up to 1000 ft. elevation

10 pounds

Weighted Gauge, above 1000 ft. elevation

15 pounds

*Do not use a Dial Gauge pressure canner above
2000 ft. elevation.

Follow the manufacturer’s directions for cooling the jars and checking for a good seal.

Properly canned confit should keep for one year.

Proper pressure canning equipment is absolutely essential for this recipe.

Canning meats is an exacting process. If you are unfamiliar with meat canning methods, seek the advice of your County extension department or health department.

Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your canner and use the ‘hot pack’ method for preserving confit.

Duck Confit Herb and Spice Variations

Use these combinations of herbs, spices and flavorings to create new dimensions in your duck confit. French, Asian, South American and even Indian influences add a range of tastes from subtle hints to robust zest to the cured meat.

Substitute herbs from this list for those in the standard confit recipes preceding. These substitutions work best with the classic confit recipes for either domestic or wild duck.
As herbs are used both in the curing and poaching, combinations for each process are shown here.

Cherry-Orange Confit

A good choice for festive flavors, this confit is sweeter than traditional preparations. It adds a pleasing note to recipes where the confit is used in a stuffing.

For the cure:

2 tablespoons orange zest

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 cup dried cherries

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon whole allspice

For poaching:

2 strips orange zest ( 1/2 by 2 inches)

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 cup dried cherries

Cilantro-Apricot Confit

Apricots mimic the south-of-the-border staple of mangos, adding to the refreshing taste of cilantro. Try this confit in South-West or Mexican style preparations.

For the cure:

1/2 cup (loosely packed) fresh cilantro leaves

1 sprig fresh thyme

1/4 cup chopped dried unsulphured apricots

1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, diced and crushed

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh thyme

1/2 cup whole dried unsulphured apricots

Citrus-Ginger Confit

The tangy hint of orange and lemon, combined with ginger make this confit version perfect for dishes with an Oriental flair.

For the cure:

1/4 cup orange zest

1/4 cup fresh orange juice

1/8 cup lemon zest

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 ounces grated fresh ginger

For poaching:

4 orange zest strips ( 1/2 inch by 2 inches)

2 lemon zest strips ( 1/2 inch by 2 inches)

1 piece fresh ginger, peeled (about 1 inch across)

Confit Fines Herbes

Chervil and tarragon lend a pronounced herbal note here. Choose this confit for dishes where the confit is the stand-out ingredient.

For the cure:

1 bunch fresh chervil, leaves only (reserve stems for poaching)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 spring fresh tarragon

1 sprig fresh rosemary

For poaching:

1 bunch fresh chervil stems

5 fresh whole chives

1 sprig fresh tarragon

Confit Provençal

Confit is traditionally associated with Gascony, but Provence is home to a few ardent confit makers. Use this version of confit when you want to emphasize the flavorings of the South East of France.

For the cure:

1 sprig fresh lavender

1 sprig fresh marjoram

1 spring fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh marjoram

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh rosemary

Darjeeling Tea Confit

The astringent flavor of tea pairs strikingly with dishes where a smoke flavor is present. Try this confit alongside your favorite grilled vegetables or even heated over a barbecue.

For the cure:

1/2 cup Darjeeling tea leaves

1 spring fresh thyme

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh thyme

Jasmine-Curry Confit

Exotic and fragrant, this confit is excellent in salads and sandwiches and blends harmoniously with Thai ingredients such as peanut sauce and lemongrass.

For the cure:

2 tablespoons jasmine tea

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

For poaching:

1 teaspoon curry powder

Jerk Seasoned Confit

Traditional Jamaican jerk is robust and spicy with a complex flavor that forces this confit into the exotic. Serve it whole alongside a cooling mango salad or shredded on a Caribbean-style sandwich.

For the cure:

1 tablespoon onion, diced

1 1/2 teaspoons onion powder

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 scotch bonnet or habañero pepper, halved

1/2 small onion

Lavender-Pepper-Mustard Confit

A seared tuna dish at one of my favorite restaurants inspired me to try these spices in combination with confit. The result was unexpectedly astonishing – a breeze from the Mediterranean with a hit of spice.

For the cure:

2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

1 teaspoon white peppercorns

1 1/2 teaspoons dried lavender flowers

2 tablespoons mustard seed

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 teaspoons whole fennel seeds

2 tablespoons mustard seed

For a truly exotic taste, substitute bergamot or Buddha’s hand zest for the orange zest in the Citrus-Ginger Confit.

Bergamot is the lemon-like fruit used to give Earl Gray tea its distinctive flavor. Buddha’s hand is truly shaped like a hand, with narrow fingers of fruit extending from a thick base. It has a flavor similar to very sweet grapefruit.

Confit Provençal is anchored in the herb combination of lavender, marjoram, thyme and rosemary - sometimes augmented with tarragon and chervil - called Herbes de Provence.

This classic herb mix is used extensively throughout France and is a great addition to grilled or broiled chicken.

Most French cooks have their own special recipe for the herbes, but pre-mixed versions are viable in the spice section of most good markets.

Goose Confit

One makes goose confit in exactly the same manner; using exactly the same ingredients (aside from the meat) as duck confit – the proportions are just larger.

Goose needs about twice as much of the curing materials and poaching fat simply to accommodate the size of the bird.

Traditional goose confit is made with a whole French Toulouse goose. I prefer to use the American Emden breed or Emden/Toulouse hybrids. The French geese have gray colored meat. Most Americans, me included, don’t care for gray meat. Emden are also easier to come by in this country. I avoid Chinese breeds of geese. They are small and are better suited to Chinese cooking.

While I wholeheartedly recommend starting from whole ducks when making duck confit, for the home cook, goose confit is better made from already-butchered goose legs and either store-bought or pre-rendered goose fat. This is simply a matter of scale. (An average goose weighs 14 or 15 pounds. If you scale the recipe for duck confit – doubling the proportions as suggested – you’ll end up with 45 pounds of goose and a gallon of goose fat on your kitchen counter!)

The following recipe reduces this scale to manageable proportions. You’ll see it nearly matches the recipe for duck confit. It’s repeated here so you won’t have to flip back and forth to prepare the recipe.

Goose Confit Master Recipe

(Confit de Oie)

Makes 2 goose legs

2 goose legs (domestic, preferably Emden or Emden/Toulouse hybrid)

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of goose legs

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

32 ounces goose fat (or at least 16 ounces goose fat and enough added extra-virgin olive oil to cover the poaching goose legs)

1 sprig sage

1 sprig rosemary

To cure the goose:

Weigh the goose legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place the goose legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of each herb on top of the goose legs.

Place a layer of salt on top of the goose legs.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the goose:

Preheat the oven to 200° F.

Melt the goose fat in a large casserole over low heat.

Remove the goose legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs.

Carefully place the goose legs into the melted fat, adding the fresh herbs as well. Add olive oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Cover the casserole and bake the goose in oil in the 250° F. oven, monitoring the temperature of the oil with an instant-read meat thermometer. When the temperature of the oil reaches 190° F., turn the oven down and cook the duck for 4 1/2 to 6 hours, maintaining an even 190° F. oil temperature.

Remove the herbs and allow the goose to cool in the oil.

To preserve the goose for future use, pack the legs into a glass or ceramic dish, re-melt the fat and add to the dish, covering the goose. Refrigerate, covered, for up to 6 weeks.

Chicken, Pork, Rabbit
and Turkey Confits

Non-waterfowl confits are less common in France than in the United States, but are quite delicious. You’ll find pork and rabbit confits on the menus of fine restaurants in the U.S. Surprisingly, the natively New World turkey is confired almost exclusively in France.

This all makes for quite a bit of “local cuisine” confusion.

Regardless of what traditionally gets made into confit, any of these four animals is great eating in this mode.

Be adventurous, and cross-continental and try them all. You’ll be happy you did.

Chicken Confit Master Recipe

(Poulet en Confit)

If you don’t have chicken fat, or don’t like its taste, use a more neutral vegetable oil instead. I think a little bit of chicken fat is beneficial to the flavor of this confit.

Makes 6 chicken legs

6 Chicken legs (preferably free range)

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of chicken legs

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

2 sprigs thyme

1 cup light chicken fat

16 to 20 ounces grape seed or canola oil

1 sprig sage

2 sprigs thyme

You’ll also need:

1 (1 gallon) zip-closure freezer bag

An instant-reading meat thermometer

To cure the chicken legs:

Weigh the chicken legs. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place a layer of chicken legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of each herb on top of the duck legs.

Place a layer of salt on top and repeat layers, ending with a layer of salt.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the chicken:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Combine the chicken fat and 16 ounces of the oil in a large casserole over low heat.

Remove the chicken legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs.

Carefully place the chicken legs into the melted fat and oil, adding the fresh herbs as well. Add additional oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Cover the casserole and bake the chicken in oil in the 250° F. oven, monitoring the temperature of the oil with an instant-read meat thermometer. When the temperature of the oil reaches 190° F., turn the oven down and cook the chicken for 4 1/2 to 6 hours, maintaining an even 190° F. oil temperature.

Remove the herbs and allow the chicken to cool in the oil.

Refrigerate the chicken, uncovered, submerged in the oil. Once it has cooled, cover it with an airtight lid.

Chicken confit should be used within a couple days of its preparation.

Rendered Chicken Fat

(Schmaltz )

This recipe creates both light and dark chicken fat. Use the light fat for confit making as well as for sautéing vegetables and even spreading on bread.

Use dark fat in stronger-flavored dishes such as pâtés and chopped liver.

The apples used here temper the potentially strong flavor of the dark rendered fat.

Makes about two cups of light fat and
about 1 cup of dark fat.

1/4 cup water

1 medium onion, sliced

1 small apple, peeled, cored and sliced

skin of two chickens, cut in 1” squares (optional)

1 pound chicken fat, chopped

To start the rendering:

Put all ingredients in a casserole over medium heat. Stir the ingredients to combine them, then cover the casserole.

As the water comes to a boil, it will start to melt the fat and you’ll hear crackling sounds as the water begins to evaporate.

When the crackling stops, the water has evaporated. At this point, remove the cover and reduce the heat to low.

For light chicken fat:

Watch the fat carefully. At the first sign of browning, drain the accumulated melted fat from the pan.

Strain the drained fat through a fine sieve.

This first-drained fat is the clear, or light, fat. It will be a yellowed-cream color when it cools.

For dark chicken fat:

Allow the remainder of the casserole’s contents to cook on low heat. The onions will brown and should be removed before they caramelize. The squares of skin will also brown and become almost crisp. The fat at this point will be darker and have more flavor. When the fat becomes a medium golden color (about the color of the crust on sandwich bread), pour the remainder of the accumulated fat through a strainer.

Discard the cooked apples.

For storage:

Pour the light and dark fats in separate containers and allow them to come to room temperature.

Cover the containers and cool them in the refrigerator. When the fats have reached refrigerator temperature, cover them tightly.

The light fat will keep, refrigerated, for up to two weeks. The dark fat, also refrigerated, will keep for one week.

For cracklings (optional):

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Place the squares of chicken skin in a single layer on a cookie sheet.

Bake the squares in the oven until they are dark brown on the edges and crisp.

Drain the squares on paper towels.

These cracklings are excellent in salads and sandwiches.

Rendered Chicken fat, or schmaltz, is commonly used in western European and traditional American Jewish cooking, in much the same ways that duck fat is used in southern France. I use it to sauté potatoes and green vegetables and as a standard fat for savory pastries.

Potato pancakes fried in chicken fat are a traditional Hanukkah dish.

Pork Confit Master Recipe

The only traditional non-waterfowl confit, pork absorbs subtle flavor from the duck fat during the confit process.

Pork confit can be used in most pork tenderloin recipes, giving them a special nuance.

Makes about 2 1/2 pounds

1 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup shallots, sliced

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of pork

1/4 cup sugar

3 tablespoons fresh cracked black pepper

2 1/2 pound boneless pork butt

2 quarts pork or duck fat

To cure the pork:

Weigh the pork. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the parsley, rosemary, garlic, shallots, salt and sugar.

Cut the pork butt into four pieces.

Rub the curing mixture over the pork.

Place the salted pork in a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8, but not more than 24 hours.

To poach the pork:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Remove the pork from the bowl and rinse off the salt. Dry the pork well.

Melt the fat in a saucepan over low heat.

Place the pork in a large casserole and add enough melted fat to cover the meat by one inch.

Cover the casserole and poach the pork in the oven for at least 6, but nor more than 8 hours.

Cool the pork in the fat and store, refrigerated and covered for up to 2 weeks (pork confit does not keep as long as waterfowl confit).

Pork Confit Cured in Plum Wine and Darjeeling Tea

This version of pork confit was inspired by Charlie Trotter and his curing method for salmon using vodka and tea. The plum and citrus flavors here are quite pronounced, making this an excellent candidate for appetizers or canapes.

Serves 4

For the confit:

1 bay leaf, crushed

1 1/2 tablespoons black peppercorns, whole

2 cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

Zest of one large navel orange

Zest of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup Darjeeling tea

1/2 cup plum wine

2 Tablespoons sugar

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of pork

1 large pork tenderloin (about 1 pound), trimmed of fat and silverskin

1 quart pork or duck fat, melted

You’ll also need:

Plastic cling wrap

To cure the tenderloin:

Weigh the pork. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the bay leaf, peppercorns, cloves, allspice, zests and tea in a large bowl and stir to combine. Add the wine and stir it in to make a thick paste.

Line a small sheet pan with a layer of plastic wrap. Spread half of the salt mixture on the plastic wrap. Place the tenderloin on top of the salt and pat the remainder of the salt mixture over the top and sides of the tenderloin.

Wrap the plastic wrap over the top and sides of the tenderloin, completely sealing it in plastic. Use additional wrap if necessary.

Refrigerate the tenderloin for at least 24 hours and up to three days.

To poach the tenderloin:

Preheat the oven to 250º F.

Unwrap the tenderloin and rinse off the salt.

Place the tenderloin in a casserole and add enough pork or duck fat to cover it.

Cover the casserole and poach the pork in the oven for at least 4, but nor more than 6 hours.

Cool the pork in the fat and store, refrigerated and covered for up to 2 weeks.

To use the confit, gently melt the fat on top of the stove and remove as much meat as you need. The remainder can be returned to the fat and stored

Pork Confit Herb and Spice Variations

Substitute herbs from this list for those in the standard confit recipes preceding. These substitutions work best with the classic confit recipes for either domestic or wild duck.

As herbs are used both in the curing and poaching, combinations for each process are shown here.

Cherry-Tamarind Pork Confit

The striking combination of these two flavors compliments the sweet earthiness of pork. To further emphasize the flavors, try substituting brown sugar for the white sugar in the pork confit curing stage.

For the cure:

2 tablespoons orange zest

1/2 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 cup tamarind paste, cut in large chunks

1 sprig fresh rosemary

For poaching:

2 strips orange zest ( 1/2 by 2 inches)

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/2 cup dried cherries

Dijon Mustard Pork Confit

This spicy variation brings to mind cool autumn nights in the southwestern French wine country. For this preparation, spread the prepared Dijon mustard on one side of the pork, leaving the other side uncoated so the cure will have a chance to work on the meat.

For the cure:

1/2 cup prepared Dijon mustard

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 teaspoon mustard seed

For poaching:

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 tablespoon mustard seed

Dried Plum and Coriander Pork Confit

Dried fruits, particularly apricots and – in this version – dried plums blend harmoniously with coriander seeds. The resulting taste is reminiscent of Middle Eastern flavors and adds a unique perspective for a special occasion dinner.

The optional addition of ginger adds an Oriental twist.

For the cure:

1 tablespoon ground coriander seed

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cup chopped dried plums

2 garlic cloves

1 small knob fresh ginger (optional)

For poaching:

1/2 cup chopped dried plums

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1 knob fresh ginger (optional)

Rabbit Confit Master Recipe

Aside from the type of meat and spices used, rabbit confit is made in a similar manner to duck confit. It makes use of rabbit legs, which are tougher than the “saddle,” or main body and transforms them into a tender, flavorful meal.

Makes 4 rabbit legs

4 rabbit legs

4 1/2 tablespoons coarse kosher salt for each pound of rabbit

2 tablespoons sugar

1 sprig sage

1 tablespoon jasmine tea

16 ounces duck fat (or at least 8 ounces duck fat and enough added extra-virgin olive oil to cover the poaching duck legs)

1 sprig sage

1 tablespoon jasmine tea in a tea strainer or cheesecloth bag

You’ll also need:

1 (1 gallon) zip-closure freezer bag

To cure the rabbit:

Weigh the rabbit. For every pound use 4 1/3 teaspoons salt.

Combine the salt and sugar.

Place a layer of the salt mixture in the bottom of a one gallon zip-closure freezer bag.

Place a two of the rabbit legs onto the salt and put 1/2 sprig of sage and 1/2 tablespoon of the tea on top of the legs.

Place a layer of salt on top and repeat layers, ending with a layer of salt.

Close the bag and refrigerate in a large bowl for at least 24 hours, but not more than 48 hours, turning four times during the curing. (A considerable amount of liquid will accumulate in the bag.)

To poach the rabbit:

Preheat the oven to 200° F.

Melt the duck fat in a large casserole over low heat.

Remove the rabbit legs from the bag and rinse off any salt clinging to the legs. Pat the legs dry with paper towels. Discard the salt and used herbs and tea.

Carefully place the rabbit into the melted duck fat, adding the fresh herbs and tea as well. Add olive oil, if necessary, to cover the legs with an inch of oil.

Cover the saucepan and bake the rabbit in oil in the 200° F. oven for 4 1/2 to 6 hours.

Remove the herbs and tea and allow the rabbit to cool in the oil.

To preserve the rabbit for future use, pack the legs into a glass or ceramic dish, re-melt the fat and add to the dish, covering the duck. Refrigerate covered for up to 6 weeks.

To serve:

Reheat the rabbit and fat in a 250° F. oven then remove the desired amount of rabbit from the fat. Any remaining rabbit can be returned to the fat and refrigerated for future use.

The process of making rabbit confit is sometimes incorrectly called “jugging,” in reference to cooking and storage of the meat in a “jug” of fat. The term originated in East Anglia (England) and correctly refers to hares slowly braised in a jug or casserole, with water and the drained blood instead of oil.

Just like the traditional American meal, this turkey goes best with mashed potatoes and a green vegetable, such as beans.

The French make a distinction between male and female turkeys. The male is a ‘dindon,’ the female a ‘dinde.’ Both terms - used colloquially - translate roughly as “stupid little goose.” Either gender, regardless of intelligence, will work in this recipe.

Turkey Confit Master Recipe

Although turkey is nearly strictly an American bird, I had my first taste of “La Dinde en Confit” in Bordeaux, where it is relatively common. One rather un-confit-like trait of turkey is its short shelf life. Turkey confit is best used within a couple days of its preparation. This recipe’s instructions assume you will be eating the confit on the day it is finished and include a step to create a simple sauce for the presentation.

Serves 8

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon bay leaves, crushed

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme

4 whole turkey thigh and legs, with skin on

16 ounces duck fat

16 ounces olive oil

1 cup fresh bread crumbs (for optional bread garnish)

salt

freshly ground black pepper

6 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup white wine

2 tablespoons butter, chilled

1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

To cure the turkey:

Combine the salt, bay leaves, rosemary and thyme. Place the turkey and salt mixture in a large zip-closure bag. Turn the bag several times to evenly coat the turkey pieces with the salt and spices.

Refrigerate the turkey, turning every few hours for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.

To poach the turkey:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Thoroughly rinse all salt and spices off the turkey. Pat the turkey dry.

(Optional) Use a cleaver or garden shears to remove the bony “knob” from the end of the leg. Cut about 3/4 of an inch off. This will make presentation of the leg easier and facilitate the removal of several tough sinews, making eating the confit easier.

Place the turkey in a casserole and add the duck fat. Add enough olive oil so that the turkey pieces are completely immersed in oil.

Cover the casserole and place it in the oven. After one hour, turn the oven down to 225° F. Bake the turkey for at least 3 hours and up to six hours.

For final preparation:

Remove the turkey from the fat and set it aside to cool. When the turkey has cooled enough to handle, remove the skin. If you cut the end of the leg bone off, the ends of the leg sinews should now be exposed. Use a dampened towel to grasp these and pull them out.

Cover the turkey and keep it warm.

Meanwhile, pour the remaining fat out of the casserole, (the fat can be re-used three or four times) leaving about a tablespoon. Add the garlic to the pan and sauté over medium heat until the garlic is browned and softened. Add the water to the casserole and bring to a boil, scraping the bottom of the casserole to dissolve any browned juices.

Continue to boil the sauce until it has reduced by half. Add the wine and again reduce by half.

Reduce the heat and gently swirl the butter into the sauce. (The sauce will thicken.)

Stir the parsley into the sauce.

Keep the sauce warm until service. It will hold up to 30 minutes in a double boiler or up to two hours in a vacuum bottle.

For optional bread garnish:

Preheat the broiler.

Mix one tablespoon of the reserved fat with the bread crumbs to moisten. Season the crumbs with salt and pepper.

Place the turkey pieces on a broiler-proof pan. Pat the moistened crumbs onto the top side of the turkey pieces, coating the surfaces evenly.

Broil the turkey about six inches from the broiler element until the bread crumbs are evenly browned.

To serve:

Place the turkey pieces on a serving platter and pass the sauce on the side.

Seafood Confits

Any firm fleshed fish can be treated with the confit process. I’ve included a master recipe for salmon and tuna confits because they are the most common types of fish to confire and the method described for them can be applied to many other fish types.

Confit fish does not generally include the salt curing. Salt cured fish will fall apart if slow cooked in oil because the salt dries out the flesh.

When choosing a fish, make sure it is very fresh and firm, with clear eyes, red gills and a fresh sea smell. Any off flavors or tastes will be intensified during the poaching.

In addition to salmon and tune, arctic char, swordfish, shark, and monkfish make excellent confit candidates. These fish all have firm, flavorful flesh and can be confired using the same procedure described for salmon.

More delicate fish, such as trout need very special handling when poached. I’d recommend leaving the skin on and poaching only until the flesh is warmed through. Try the “Trout Confit Stuffed with Walnuts and Mushrooms”.

Shellfish meats are not generally made into confit. I’ve presented a recipe for lobster confit that is essentially lobster cooked in butter (“Lobster and Tomato Confits with Tarragon Crustacean Butter Sauce on Brioche”). This is not strictly a confit process, but is similar in technique and produces excellent results.

Salmon Confit Master Recipe

Salmon is one of the best fish to prepare in a slow-cooked confit method. It has firm flesh and flavor that won’t be diluted by the long cooking process, yet is able to absorb the subtle hints of herbs that make a confit so special. As always, choose the freshest fish for confit.

Makes 4 filets

4 salmon filets (6 - 8 ounces each), deboned, skin on

3 mint stems

1 sprig rosemary

1 clove garlic

16 ounces duck fat 3

Salt

To infuse and shape the filets:

Place the salmon in a covered container or zip closure bag with the mint, rosemary and garlic.

Refrigerate the salmon for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours to infuse the flavor.

Remove the salmon from the refrigerator and reserve the spices.

The filets will have two edges where the skin meets the work surface and two edges where the skin arches away from the surface, exposing the flesh.

Place the filets on a work surface, skin side up, with one of the edges where the skin meets the work surface facing you.

In the exact center of each filet, make an incision through the skin, perpendicular to the edge facing you and cut down through the filet to within 1/4 of the bottom. Do not cut entirely through the fish. Leave 1/4 inch of uncut skin at each end of the cut.

Lift the filet up and fold it in half, using the incision as a hinge. Secure the folded filet with a toothpick.

This process makes the fish filet look like a salmon steak, without the problem of bones within the meat.

Repeat this process for each filet.

To poach the filet:

Heat the duck fat to 160° F. in a sauté pan. Add the reserved mint, rosemary and garlic.

Lightly salt the filets on both sides.

Place the filets in the heated oil, making sure they are completely submerged. (Add additional fat or olive oil if necessary.)

Bring the oil back to 160° F., then remove the pan from the stove.

Cover the pan and allow the salmon to poach off heat for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the filets are pink on the outside, but still slightly red in the interior.

To serve:

Remove the salmon from the fat and allow it to drain, blotting with a towel if necessary.

Remove the toothpick.

You may remove the skin by sliding a fork between the skin and flesh at the thin end of the steak, then twisting the fork to roll the skin around it. This will remove the skin in a manner similar to the way the key opens a sardine can.

Serve immediately. (Fish confits cannot be kept in their oil and reheated.)

Tuna Confit is a great substitute for canned tuna in any recipe where the tuna is the featured ingredient, such as a Salad Niçoise.

Tuna Confit Master Recipe

Tuna confit is a distant cousin of tuna canned in oil. But, just as cousins in your family are nothing like you, tuna confit is a whole ‘nother animal.

Instead of broken pieces of tan or gray fish, home-made tuna confit retains its elegant mahogany hue and will please any tuna lover and even sushi aficionados.

Makes 2 pounds

3 cups olive oil

1 medium yellow onion, cut in 1/2 inch slices

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

4 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns - cracked

zest of 1/2 lemon - in strips

zest of 1/2 lime - in strips

3 tablespoons kosher salt

2 pounds ‘sushi’ grade ahi or yellowfin tuna - sliced into 1 inch thick steaks

You’ll also need:

an instant-read meat thermometer

To prepare the poaching liquid:

Combine the oil, onion, herbs, peppercorns, lemon and lime zest, and salt in a large stove proof pot. Heat the mixture to 140° F. , stirring occasionally.

Steep the poaching liquid for 25 minutes.

Remove the pot from the heat and allow the liquid to cool for about 30 minutes, or until lukewarm.

To poach the tuna:

Return the pot to the stove over medium-low heat.

Place a single layer of tuna pieces in the oil. (If the oil does not completely cover the tuna by at least half an inch, add more oil.) Set any remaining tuna aside to poach in a second batch.

Slowly bring the oil up to 150° F.

Take the pot off the heat, and let the tuna steep in the warm oil for two minutes.

Check the tuna for doneness. It should be warm in the center.

Repeat the poaching with any remaining tuna.

Transfer the poached tuna to a glass casserole dish and let it cool.

When all of the tuna has been poached, cool the oil separately. (If you cool the tuna in the oil, the flavors of the liquid will over-season the fish.)

Strain the cooled oil. Pour the strained oil over the cooled tuna. If the remaining oil does not cover the fish, add additional fresh oil.

Either use the tuna immediately or refrigerate it, covered for up to two weeks.

Vegetable Confits

With the advent of Nouvelle Cuisine and the expansion of traditional French cookery, the term “confit” has been extended to cover any foodstuff cooked slowly in oil. Here, this abbreviated process is represented by several confits created from vegetables.

Nearly any vegetable, and even some fruits, can successfully be prepared by slow cooking in oil. Soft vegetables need only relatively brief cooking. Harder ones, like turnips and carrots, take a little longer. Vegetable or olive oil is used to avoid masking the flavor of the vegetable with stronger tasting duck or goose fat.

Tomato Confit

Tomato confit may be used in any recipe calling for either roasted tomatoes or even sun-dried tomatoes. It has a gentler flavor and is softer in texture.

Makes about 1 cup

6 plum tomatoes

2 cups olive oil

1 sprig fresh rosemary

1 sprig fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Preheat the oven to 275° F.

Cut the tops off the tomatoes and remove the seeds and pulp.

Place the tomatoes in an oven-proof dish just large enough to hold them, upright, in a single layer, but tall enough to allow them to be completely covered by the olive oil.

Add the olive oil, thyme, rosemary and pepper. Cover the pan with an airtight lid or aluminum foil.

Bake the tomatoes for 4 hours.

Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow them to cool in the oil.

When cool, remove the tomatoes from the oil and remove the peel and any seeds that remain.

The tomatoes can be kept, covered and refrigerated for up to two weeks. The oil can be saved and used again to prepare additional tomatoes or as part of the oil in other confit dishes. It adds an interesting flavor when used as part of the oil components in duck confit and helps add a distinctive flavor to salad dressings.

For an exotic, smoky flavor, add 1/2 teaspoon of sweet Spanish smoked paprika to the tomato confit after the confit cools.

This smoky tomato confit is great on toast with a hearty soup or as an accompaniment to grilled meats.

Garlic Confit

When prepared as a confit, garlic is less potent than in fresh form. It is similar to roasted garlic, but is not prone to the scorched flavor that often plagues roasted garlic.

Makes about 1 cup

6 large heads garlic

2 quarts milk

1 quart olive oil

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Cut the tops off the garlic heads, just far enough down the bulb to expose the tops of all of the cloves.

Place the garlic in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Cover the heads with milk and bring to a simmer. Take the pan off the heat and allow the garlic to steep in the hot milk for 20 minutes. Pour off the milk and replace it with fresh milk. Bring the second batch of milk to a simmer again, remove from the heat and allow the garlic to steep for another 20 minutes.

Pour off the milk. (You can use this second batch of milk to flavor mashed potatoes or as a component in a savory sauce.)

Heat the oven to 200° F.

Transfer the garlic heads to a clean saucepan. Add the herbs and cover the heads with olive oil.

Bake the garlic in the oil for no less than 3 and up to 5 hours.

Remove the garlic from the oil and cool. Discard the herbs. (The oil can be cooled and used in a salad dressing. It should have a mild garlic taste.)

Once cooled, squeeze the garlic out of the heads and store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Elephant Garlic Confit

Elephant garlic is not true garlic; it is more closely related to leeks and ramps and has a flavor similar to a combination of garlic and leeks. Because it is milder than standard garlic, it does not need the milk poaching before being poached in the oil.

Use elephant garlic confit in any recipe calling for garlic confit, keeping in mind its milder flavor.

Makes about 2 cups

6 heads elephant garlic, peeled

1/2 quart olive oil

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

Preheat the oven to 200° F.

Place the peeled elephant garlic heads in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer.

Cover the heads with olive oil. Add the herbs.

Bake the garlic for at least 4 and up to 6 hours.

Remove the heads from the oil and use them immediately or allow them to cool in the oil.

Once cooled, transfer the heads to a jar, cover with the oil and refrigerate for up to one week.

Red Onion Confit

Using honey and wine instead of oil to cook the onions gives this confit a sweet taste and is makes it similar to confiture – the difference being that this recipe is intended as a hot accompaniment to meat dishes.

It is excellent with pork and with venison – especially if the juniper berries are used.

Makes about 2 cups

1 pound julienned red onions (about 1 large onion)

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup cabernet sauvignon or merlot wine (or any Bordeaux style red wine)

1 teaspoon juniper berries, lightly crushed (optional)

1/3 cup red wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Place the onions, honey, wine and vinegar in a medium saucepan over low heat. Simmer the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and have begun to break down. This should take about 40 minutes.

If using the juniper berries, add them in the last 10 minutes of cooking.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve hot.

The confit can be cooled and refrigerated, covered, for up to two weeks.

Fennel Confit

Fennel, with its gentle hit of licorice, makes an unusual confit – perfect for Mediterranean style dishes and as an accompaniment to roasted tomatoes.

Makes 2 cups

2 cups olive oil

4 medium fennel bulbs

5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

Clean the fennel and cut it into julienne strips. (You may want to reserve the fronds for garnish.)

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

In a large ovenproof saucepan, heat the olive oil to 200° F.

Submerge the garlic and julienned fennel in the oil.

Transfer the saucepan to the oven and poach the fennel until it is tender, about ten minutes.

Remove from the oven and strain the fennel from the oil.

The fennel can be used immediately or reserved, covered and refrigerated for later use.

The oil can also be saved for use in salad dressings; the garlic and fennel lend a unique flavor.

Appetizers and Hors d’oeuvres

Pepper-Cured Duck
and Duck Confit Hors d’oeuvres

The pepper cure method is simple, but takes some time. When the breast is drying, it is important to allow plenty of fresh air circulation. This cannot be accomplished in the refrigerator, or even a closed garage. A screened porch is ideal.

Makes about 12 hors d’ oeuvres

For the duck breast:

1 duck breast, skinned and boned

1 cup coarse kosher salt

1 cup freshly crushed black pepper

You’ll also need:

String

For the hors d’ oeuvres:

1/2 cup finely chopped duck confit meat

2 Mission figs, cut in eighths lengthwise

Olive oil

To cure the duck breast:

Pack the duck breast in the salt and place it in a zip closure bag. Put the bag in a bowl in the refrigerator. Allow the duck to remain in the salt for at least 8, but not more than 12 hours.

Remove the breast from the salt and shake most of the salt off.

Pack the breast in the pepper and place it in a zip closure bag. Put the bag in a bowl in the refrigerator. Allow the duck to remain in the pepper for at least 8, but not more than 12 hours.

Remove the breast from the pepper and pierce a small hole near one end. Run a string through the hole.

Hang the breast in protected open space outside. Make sure the location gets plenty of air circulation.

Allow the breast to hang for about one week. The exterior will dry out, but the interior will remain moist.

To assemble the hors d’ oeuvres:

Slice the breast on a bias very thinly.

Moisten the duck confit with olive oil just until it begins to adhere together.

Place a half teaspoon of confit on a slice of breast and top the mound with a fig piece.

Roll the breast around the confit.

Trim any fig pieces extending beyond the roll and use these trimmings on additional rolls.

Repeat for the remainder of the breast slices.

Pack the rolls tightly in a container and refrigerate for one hour to help them hold their shape.

Allow them to come to room temperature before serving.

Fried Green Tomato Lasagna with Tomato Confit, Mozzarella and Baby Basil

This is a free-form lasagna that displays not only a variety of tastes, but also of textures - crunchy fried green tomatoes set amid softly melting cheese and smooth tomato confit.

Serves 4

For the tomato confit:

8 tablespoons chopped tomato confit

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the fried green tomatoes:

4 large green tomatoes

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

3/4 cup stone-ground white cornmeal

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

1/3 cup bacon fat (or 1/3 cup bacon fat and canola oil combined)

For the lasagna:

1/4 pound fresh mozzarella cheese, in very thin slices

1 cup (loosely packed) baby basil, washed and dried

Balsamic vinegar

12 (2 inch) squares of fresh pasta, cooked

To prepare the tomatoes:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Slice the tomatoes horizontally, making sure that you have at least three 1/4 inch slices from the center of each tomato. (These slices are uniform in diameter and make for a better presentation.)

Combine the kosher salt, sugar and black pepper. Sprinkle the mixture lightly on both sides of the tomato slices.

Combine the cornmeal and flour.

Dredge the tomato slices in the mixture to coat them lightly but evenly.

Heat a cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat and coat the pan with some of the fat or oil. Allow the grease to get very hot, but not smoking. Fry the tomato slices about 2 to 3 minutes on each side. (You’ll have to do this in batches. Add additional oil as necessary.)

Drain the slices on paper towels. Keep the slices warm in the oven for up to 20 minutes.

For the tomato confit:

Warm the confit in a saucepan.

Add the chives, salt and pepper to taste.

Keep the confit warm until service.

To assemble:

Place 2 tablespoons of the confit in the center of each of 4 warmed serving plates, spreading it to a circle about 4 inches in diameter.

Place a hot fried green tomato slice on the tomato confit.

Place a slice of cheese on the green tomato slice.

Place a couple of baby basil leaves on the cheese.

Place a teaspoon of tomato confit on the basil.

Place a piece of pasta on the tomato confit.

Repeat the green tomato, cheese, basil, tomato confit, pasta layers twice again (for a total of three tiers).

Top the lasagnas with any remaining tomato confit.

Lightly sprinkle balsamic vinegar on top and around the lasagna.

Serve immediately.

Fried green tomatoes are most commonly associated with “good-ole” Southern cooking in the United States. Church fund-raiser cookbooks from the South are filled with recipes for the dish.
My grandmother always chose green tomatoes that had just the slightest beginnings of pink. She said the burgeoning ripeness sweetened the green tomatoes just enough to take the sour edge off the tart fruit.

Simple Duck Confit Pâté

Easy and flavorful, this quick pâté is ideal for using up leftover confit meat. Either chicken or duck livers can be used, with the chicken being milder in flavor.
Serve the pâté chilled or at room temperature on thin toast alongside cornichons or small gherkins.

Serves 4 to 6

For the pâté:

1/2 large onion, chopped finely

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 pound chicken or duck livers, ground

1/4 pound shredded duck confit meat

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

For service:

Toast slices

Cornichons or gherkins

To prepare the pâté:

Heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and butter and sauté until the onions are translucent

Add the livers and confit meat.

Cook, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes or until the livers are no longer pink and the mixture has a consistent texture.

Add the salt and pepper and stir to incorporate them into the mixture.

Transfer the mixture to a food processor and process until smooth.

Allow the mixture to come to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until service.

Pâté will keep for four days refrigerated.

The terms “pâté” and “terrine” are often used interchangeably in modern cookbooks. They are usually loafs of ground meat, formed with flavorings and binders into a cohesive whole - similar to a meat loaf.

Traditionally, and in their strictest French definition, pâtés are these types of loafs encased and baked in pastry. A “pâté en terrine” is a loaf baked in a ceramic dish, without the pastry. The “terrine” is the dish, not the food.

This recipe is designed for presentation in individual ramekins, but can just as easily be prepared in a two-quart casserole or soufflé dish.

Eggs Clamart with Duck Confit en Croûte

This is variation of the classic French dish. Eggs Clamart is eggs steamed in a small ramekin with peas. Here, the tradition is expanded with confit and a pastry crust.

Serves 6

Pâte Brisée

Vegetable cooking spray

1 egg (for egg wash)

Unsalted butter

3/4 cup shredded duck confit meat

1/2 cup raw peas (fresh or frozen)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 extra large eggs

Boiling water for a Bain Marie

3/4 cup reduced duck stock (optional)

To prepare the pastry tops:

Cut six squares of aluminum foil that are two inches larger than the tops of your ramekins.

Mold the squares tightly over the tops of the ramekins, as if you were sealing food to be refrigerated.

Spray the foil with a light coating of cooking spray.

Preheat the oven to 450° F.

Roll out the pastry to 1/8 inch thickness.

Find a saucer or plate that is one inch larger in diameter than the tops of your ramekins. Using the plate as a guide, cut six circles out of the rolled pastry. (Using a fluted pastry cutter here adds a nice touch.)

Use the additional pastry to cut decorative shapes, such as leaves or flourons.

Carefully drape a pastry round over the top of a foil-covered ramekin. Gently press the sides down, being careful not to break the pastry at the edge.

Repeat for the remainder of the rounds.

Beat the egg with one tablespoon of water to make an egg wash.

Lightly brush the pastry rounds with the egg wash.

If you cut decorations out of the extra pastry, apply them to the tops of the rounds, then brush them with egg wash also.

Place the ramekins on a baking sheet in the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until golden brown.

Cool the pastry on the ramekins.

Once cool, carefully invert the ramekins over a baking sheet and allow the pastry to fall gently onto the sheet, along with the foil.

To prepare the Eggs Clamart:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Heat the duck stock (if using) and keep it warm.

Bring a kettle of water to the boil.

Carefully remove the foil from the inside of the pastry lids. Put the lids in the oven to warm for no more than 10 minutes.

Butter the inside of six ramekins.

Divide the peas and confit among the ramekins.

Carefully break an egg into each ramekin.

Place the ramekins in the sauté pan.

Pour boiling water into the sauté pan around the ramekins until the water comes half way up their sides.

Place the sauté pan over medium heat and cover it.

Cook the eggs for 1 1/2 or two minutes, or until the whites are set, but the yolks are still soft.

Remove the ramekins from the Bain Marie.

If you’re using the stock, pour 1/8 cup of stock on top of the eggs.

Carefully place a pastry lid on each of the ramekins.

Serve immediately.

Duck Eggs Benedict with Sauce Colbert

An earthy rendition of the breakfast standard, this recipe is best suited to a late brunch dish or dinner appetizer. The rustic flavors of the confit, duck eggs and sauce are more assertive than the traditional Eggs Benedict.

6 Servings

For the Benedict:

6 duck eggs

2 Tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 quart ice water

6 slices rye or other dark bread - 1/2 inch thick

6 pats unsalted butter

12 ounces shredded duck confit

For the Sauce Colbert:

1/4 cup white wine vinegar

1/4 cup dry white wine

1 Tablespoon minced shallots

1 Tablespoon fresh thyme

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Salt

3 egg yolks (chicken or duck)

1 cup melted butter

2 Tablespoons minced flat Italian flat leaf parsley

2 tablespoons reduced duck stock

To poach the eggs:

In a medium saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to the boil.

Pierce a very small hole in the shell of each duck egg at the large end, using a pushpin. Gently place the eggs in the boiling water for no more than ten seconds. Remove the eggs and set aside to cool. This will solidify a small layer of egg white within the shell and help keep the eggs together when they are poached.

Meanwhile, bring 3 inches of water to boil in a large sauté pan. Reduce heat to a slow simmer (with only a few bubbles breaking the surface each second. You should be able to see the bottom of the pan clearly through the water). Add the vinegar to the simmering water.

Crack an egg on a flat surface, then lower it toward the surface of the simmering water and open the egg so that it slides gently from the shell into the water. Repeat this process quickly for each egg. (The eggs should stay relatively separate and will sink to the bottom of the pan.)

Drag the bowl of a slotted spoon over the surface of the water and eggs, bringing them up from the bottom of the pan and gently moving the whites only to keep them with their yolk.

Poach the eggs for 3 1/2 to 4 minutes, until the whites are solid, but the yolks are still runny.

Remove the poached eggs from the simmering water with a slotted spoon and place them immediately in a bowl of ice water.

Once the eggs have cooled, trim any stray whites and discard the trimmings.

You can store the eggs in the ice water, refrigerated, for up to 24 hours.

To make the Sauce Colbert:

Melt the butter in a small saucepan and keep warm. The butter will separate into yellow fat at the top and milky solids at the bottom. Be careful not to mix these two layers.

Place the vinegar, wine, shallots, thyme, pepper and a pinch of salt in a separate small saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the liquid to two tablespoons. Set aside and allow to cool, and then strain the liquid.

Place the egg yolks, 1/4 teaspoon of salt, a pinch of fresh ground pepper and the strained vinegar/wine liquid into a blender. Blend for 2 seconds to break the yolks and emulsify the liquid into them.

With the blender running, pour 1/2 cup of the butter into the yolk mixture in a very slow stream. The sauce will become thick and creamy.

Pour the sauce from the blender into a heat-proof bowl. Using a whisk, very slowly add the remainder of the yellow part of the melted butter to the sauce. Do not add the milky butter solids from the bottom of the pan. The sauce should be thick and creamy.

Stir in the reduced duck stock.

Keep the sauce warm in the bowl over simmering water. Stir it occasionally to keep a skin from forming on the surface. The sauce will keep in this manner for up to an hour, beyond that point it may separate. For somewhat longer keeping, pour the sauce into a Thermos. It will keep for nearly two hours in a sealed Thermos.

To assemble the Benedict:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Cut a 2 1/2 inch round from the center of each slice of bread. Spread a thin layer of oil on a baking sheet and rub one side of the bread rounds in the oil. Turn the rounds over and rub the other side.

Place the rounds in the oven and bake until their top surfaces are lightly toasted. Turn the rounds over and continue baking until the second side is also lightly toasted. Remove he rounds from the oven and place them on a wire rack, then cover with a clean towel to keep them warm.

Lower the oven to 200° F. and warm the duck confit, covered.

Meanwhile, bring a medium saucepan of water to the simmer. Gently place the poached eggs in the simmering water and allow them to warm for two minutes.

Place one bread round on each of six warmed serving plates. Place a pat of butter on each round. Cover the butter with 2 ounces of warmed duck confit.

Place a warmed egg on top of the confit.

Nape the egg with two to three tablespoons of the warm sauce.

Serve immediately.

Duck Confit Aumônières

This is one of those “how did you do that” recipes where a very simple technique produces a conversation piece on a plate. Aumônières are sometimes called ‘Beggar’s Purses’, but their shape is really intended to mimic an almoner’s purse, making them just the opposite. An almoner is someone who gives small purses of money to charity.

Serves 6

6 (1 1/2 inch) fresh Shiitake mushrooms

1 1/2 cups duck stock

1 package phyllo dough

6 tablespoons tomato confit, chopped

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable cooking spray

Chives

1 teaspoon arrowroot powder

To prepare the purses:

Cut the stems from the mushrooms and chop the stems roughly.

Put the stems and the duck stock in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Simmer the stock and stems for 10 minutes, then add the mushroom caps. Simmer the caps for 10 minutes.

Remove the caps from the stock and drain and dry them.

Remove the stock from the heat.

Place six ten-inch squares of aluminum foil, shiny side up, on a work surface. Spray the foil pieces lightly with cooking spray.

Remove the phyllo dough from the package, but leave it rolled.

Cut the end off the roll to make it square, then begin making thin (about 1/8 inch) slices across the roll. This will create very long strips when the dough is unrolled.

Continue cutting the strips until halfway through the roll.

Fluff up the cut strips into a mound resembling a pile of spaghetti.

Divide the mound into six piles.

Spread one of the piles evenly over one of the aluminum foil pieces, creating a layer about 1/4 inch thick.

Repeat for the rest of the piles and aluminum sheets.

Spray the Phyllo lightly with cooking spray.

Place a cooked mushroom cap, upside down in the center of each phyllo layer.

Fill each mushroom cap with one teaspoon of the chopped tomato confit.

Mound two tablespoons of the duck confit on each mushroom cap.

Use the aluminum foil to pick up the edges of the phyllo layer and wrap the layer around the mushroom/confit mound, bringing the phyllo up the sides and over the top, forming a purse. The foil will hold the phyllo in shape until it is baked. Do not crush the phyllo layer. Leave a small opening in the top of the foil.

Place the foil packets in the freezer for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400° F.

Reheat the duck stock and mushroom stems. Once warm, put the stock and stems in a blender and process until smooth.

Place the cold foil packets on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 10 minutes.

Remove the packets from the oven and carefully peel the foil away from the phyllo.

Return the packets to the oven for another 10 minutes, or until the phyllo is lightly browned.

To serve:

Place a baked packet in the center of each of six serving plates.

Nape the duck stock/mushroom sauce around the packet.

Sprinkle chopped tomato confit pieces around the plate within the sauce.

Stick three or four chive stems into the top of each packet.

Serve immediately.

Try substituting Pork Confit Cured in Plum Wine and Darjeeling Tea for the duck confit in this recipe. The flavors will be more on the Oriental side and, prepared this way, the purses make an excellent prelude to a meal featuring game or barbecue.

Duck Confit and Onion Tart

As either as side dish or an appetizer, this tart makes a fitting compliment a hearty meal.

Makes six individual or one large tart

Pâte Brisée

3 large yellow onions, julienned

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup wild or button mushrooms, finely diced

1 cup chopped duck confit meat

1 sprig fresh thyme leaves

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 egg yolk

1/2 cup heavy cream

To prepare the tart shell:

Prepare the Pâte Brisée as instructed. You can make either six individual tarts or one 8 or 9 inch tart.

To prepare the filling:

In a large sauté pan over medium heat, sauté the onions in the butter until the onions caramelize, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the mushrooms and confit and sauté an additional 5 minutes, being careful not to burn the onions. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Once cool, stir in the thyme.

To assemble and bake the tart:

Preheat the oven to 375° F.

Fill the tart shells or shell with the onion mixture.

Whisk the egg yolk and cream together, then carefully pour them over the filling.

Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until the filling is set and slightly browned on top. Allow to cool 20 minutes before serving.

Rabbit Confit and Caramelized Vegetable Pizza

Use these hearty, down-to-earth nibbles as a prelude to a meal featuring wild game or at a cocktail party in a rustic setting.

Makes 48 appetizers

For the pizza dough:

5 to 5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons table salt

2 teaspoons dried rosemary, crushed

1 package quick rise yeast

2 cups water

1/4 cup olive oil

For the Topping:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves, crushed

1/2 teaspoon table salt

2 small yellow onions, cut into 1/2 inch wedges

1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/4 inch strips

⅔ cup shredded Provolone cheese

1 cup shredded rabbit confit

You’ll also need:

1 13 x 9 inch sheet pan

To prepare the dough:

Set aside 1 cup flour from total amount.

Mix remaining flour, salt, rosemary and yeast in a large bowl.

Combine the water and olive oil, then heat them to 125º F. Add the water/oil mixture to the dry Ingredients and blend well. Stir in enough additional flour to make a soft dough. Knead on lightly floured surface until smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes.

Cover the prepared dough and let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

Turn the dough out onto a work surface. Using a sharp knife, divide the dough in half. You will use only half of the dough in this recipe. Use the remaining dough in another recipe or freeze it for future use.

To prepare the topping:

Preheat oven to 425º F.

In a large bowl, combine the oil, vinegar, garlic, rosemary and salt. Add the onions and bell pepper. Toss the ingredients to coat them evenly with the oil.

Arrange the vegetables in single layer on a baking pan. Place the pan on the oven’s bottom rack and roast the vegetables until the onions are tender, stirring occasionally. (Do not brown the vegetables, they will get additional cooking on assembled pizza.)

Set the vegetables aside and keep warm. (The vegetables can be prepared up to two days in advance, keep them covered in the refrigerator and bring them to room temperature before using.)

To prepare the pizza:

Preheat oven to 425º F.

Flour your work surface and place the dough on the floured surface. If necessary, knead in enough flour to make the dough pliable and not sticky. Knead the dough until smooth.

Grease the bottom and sides of the baking pan with a very thin coating of olive oil or vegetable oil.

Roll or press the dough to fit the bottom and 1/2 inch up sides of the pan. Spread the vegetable mixture evenly over the top of the dough. Sprinkle the confit on top of the vegetables and the cheese on top of the confit.

Bake on the bottom rack of the oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cheese has melted and the crust is golden brown.

To Serve:

Cut the pizza into 1 1/2 inch squares, trim the edges and serve warm.

BcLT ala Norman

Norman Van Aken, chef and proprietor of Norman’s in Miami, served similar canapés – derived from the classic bacon, lettuce and tomato sandwiches – at a Texas barbecue I was privileged to attend. He slow cooked the bacon in a vacuum bag, then grilled it and served it atop tender bread squares with heirloom miniature tomatoes and watercress.

Since most home cooks don’t have vacuum packaging equipment, I’ve simplified the slow cooking process by preparing the bacon using a confit method.

Makes 24 hors d’oeuvres

For the bacon confit:

1/4 pound unsliced smoked bacon

1 tablespoon dried thyme

1 tablespoon dried rosemary

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon dried mustard

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 cups pork fat

2 cups vegetable oil

1 sprig fresh rosemary

For the dressing:

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon cocktail sauce

1/2 teaspoon very finely chopped Italian parsley

1/2 a hard-boiled egg, white only

1/3 cup water

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For assembly:

6 slices brioche from a 4 inch loaf

1 stick melted butter (for brushing a sheet pan and the brioche slices)

12 red heirloom cherry tomatoes

12 green or “zebra” heirloom cherry tomatoes

24 sprigs purslane or watercress, tender sprouts only

You’ll also need:

A one gallon zip-closure bag

A cast iron griddle or large skillet

A large sheet or cookie pan

To prepare the bacon confit:

Wash and dry the bacon.

Combine the dried thyme, dried rosemary, black pepper and mustard.

Smear the bacon with the crushed garlic clove, then pat the herb mixture over the entire surface of the bacon.

Place the bacon in a zip-closure bag and refrigerate it for at least eight hours.

Remove the bacon from the bag and rinse the herbs off the surface.

Heat the oven to 200° F.

Place the bacon in a saucepan large enough to contain it flat on the bottom. Add the pork fat to the saucepan. Pour on enough vegetable oil to cover the bacon by a half inch. Add the sprig of rosemary to the saucepan.

Over low heat, heat the bacon, fat and oil until the pork fat melts.

Cover the saucepan and place it in the preheated oven.

Bake the bacon for two hours.

Remove the bacon from the oven and allow it to cool to room temperature, still in the fat and oil. (The fat and oil may separate during the cooling process.)

Heat a cast iron griddle or large skillet until it is very hot.

Remove the bacon from the fat and oil and wipe off any excess clinging to the surface.

Place the bacon on the griddle and sear the surface until it is dark brown, holding the bacon in contact with the surface to ensure even browning.

Turn the bacon over and sear the other side using the same method.

Do not cook the bacon until the interior fat begins to melt.

Remove the bacon to a platter and allow it to cool to room temperature.

If you will not be serving the bacon immediately, it can be refrigerated once cooled for up to a week, covered.

Before service, cut the bacon into 1/8 inch slices.

Cut each slice into 1 inch squares.

You will have more than enough bacon to make 24 hors d’oeuvres.

If you will be making your own brioche:

Follow the recipe, but do the final rise of the dough in a standard bread loaf pan.

To prepare the dressing:

Combine the mayonnaise, cocktail sauce and parsley in a bowl.

Press the egg white through a very fine sieve and stir it into the mayonnaise mixture.

Add the water and stir to combine.

Toast the brioche:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Slice the brioche into half inch slices.

If desired, use a cookie cutter to cut the slices into fancy shapes or simply trim off the crust.

Brush a sheet pan with melted butter and arrange the slices on the sheet pan.

Brush the top of each slice with a light coating of melted butter.

Toast the slices in the oven until they are slightly browned.

To assemble:

Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Place them on paper towels, cut side down to drain slightly.

Cut the crust from the brioche slices and lightly toast the slices.

Cut each piece of toast into four squares.

Place the toast squares evenly on a serving tray.

Place two pieces of bacon on each toast square.

Using a pastry brush, very lightly dress the bacon slices with less than 1/8 teaspoon of dressing.

Arrange two tomato slices on top of each toast stack.

Place a 1 1/2 inch length of purslane or watercress spring on top of the tomatoes.

Very lightly dress the tops with additional dressing.

Tamale Tart with Red Pepper Custard, Wild Mushrooms and Chicken Confit

This recipe is adapted from a dish made famous at the Star Canyon restaurant in Dallas, Texas. The chef there, Stephen Pyles, was one of the vanguard of chefs to bring culinary tastes from the American Southwest to the forefront of American cooking. Here, a classic tamale is “deconstructed” into tart form, exposing the traditional shredded meat filling as a flavorful topping.

Serves 6

For the custard:

3 red bell peppers, roasted and peeled

3 cups heavy cream

1 tablespoon roasted garlic, pureed or 1 tablespoon garlic confit, pureed

4 egg yolks

For the pastry:

1 14-ounce can ancho chiles in adobo sauce

1 red bell pepper, roasted and peeled

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 teaspoon cayenne powder

3 tablespoons cumin

1 tablespoon salt

1 1/2 cups vegetable shortening, at room temperature

Boiling water

For the confit topping:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 onion

1 pound assorted wild mushrooms, julienned

2 tablespoons oregano

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 lb. chicken confit, shredded

1 bunch cilantro

To prepare the custard:

Puree the red peppers in a food processor.

In small saucepan over high heat, warm the pepper puree, stirring constantly until it is very thick, about 5 minutes.

In another small saucepan over medium heat, bring the cream to a slow boil. Reduce the cream to about 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons in volume. Whisk garlic puree into cream. Remove the cream from the heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks lightly; then stir them slowly into the cream mixture. Stir to combine the eggs and cream – do not whisk or whip as this will add air to the mixture and cause bubbles to form in the custard.

Add the reduced bell pepper puree mixture to cream. Stir the ingredients together until completely incorporated, then cover and set aside to cool.

To prepare the pastry:

Puree the ancho chiles with their sauce in a food processor. Set aside 1 1/2 cups of the puree for use in the recipe. (Use any remainder in another recipe.)

Puree the red pepper and add it to the ancho chile puree.

In a separate medium bowl, combine the masa harina, cornmeal, cayenne pepper, cumin and salt.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the shortening until light and fluffy. Beat in the dry ingredients until the mixture is smooth. Beat in the 1 1/2 cups of ancho puree and remaining red bell pepper puree.

Form the dough mixture into a disk and pat evenly over bottom and sides of the 9-inch tart pan. Pour the reserved pepper custard into the tart shell and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

Tie the ends of each piece of string together to form a loop. Carefully place each loop of string around the tart pan, crossing the loops on the center of the bottom of the pan. These loops will be used to lower and lift the tart pan in the roasting pan or casserole.

To steam the tart:

Place the tuna cans inside the roasting pan or casserole. Pour enough boiling water into the pan to come up to within 1/4 inch from the can tops. Bring the water back to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat so the water is at a slow simmer.

Place the wrapped tart on top of the tuna cans, moving the cans with tongs, if necessary, to provide even support for the tart pan. Cover the roasting pan or casserole tightly with aluminum foil.

Steam the custard until it is set, about 30 minutes.

Using the string loops, carefully lift the tart off the rack; remove the plastic wrap and sides of tart ring. Place the tart on a warmed serving platter.

To prepare the confit topping:

The confit can be prepared while the tart is steaming.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat until it is slightly smoking. Add the onion, stirring continuously. Add the mushrooms and sauté three more minutes, until the mushrooms are fully cooked and tender.

Add the chicken confit, oregano and lime juice. Cook for two minutes longer.

To serve:

Cut the tart into six equal portions.

Place an equal portion of the confit mixture on top of each slice.

Garnish the confit with cilantro sprigs.

Herbed Duck Confit Terrine

Not as complicated as the classic terrine recipe, this one is really more a robust aspic than a proper terrine. It is, nevertheless, delicious and makes a magnificent luncheon dish or appetizer.

Serves 8 (with leftovers)

For the terrine:

5 cups clarified duck stock or clarified beef broth

1 1/2 cups dry red wine

2 onions, quartered

2 carrots, chopped coarse

4 garlic cloves, crushed

1 bay leaf

4 cups shredded duck confit meat

1 cup chopped scallion

1/2 cup minced fresh flat leaf Italian flat leaf parsley leaves

1 tablespoon minced fresh chervil

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme leaves

3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 packages unflavored gelatin

For the sauce:

1/3 cup crème fraîche

1/4 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons capers, chopped

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

Optional:

Lettuce leaves

Pickled onions

Cornichons

To prepare the terrine:

In a large saucepan over medium heat, combine 4 cups of the stock, the wine, onions, carrots, garlic and bay leaf and bring to a simmer. (Keep the remaining one cup of stock to dissolve the gelatin, see below.)

Reduce the liquid to two cups. Strain the liquid and discard the solids.

Return the liquid to the stove and further reduce to one cup. Keep the liquid warm.

In a large bowl, combine the confit, scallion, parsley, chervil, thyme, lemon juice, and pepper.

Add the gelatin to the reserved cup of unreduced stock and let it stand for one minute to soften.

Bring the reduced stock to a boil. Add the stock/gelatin mixture to the reduced stock. Remove the stock from the heat and stir until the gelatin is completely dissolved (about 5 minutes).

Pour the stock into the confit mixture and stir to combine well.

Line a 9” x 5” x 3” loaf pan with a single sheet of non-cling plastic wrap. Fill the pan with cold water and dump the water out (this will press the plastic tightly to the walls of the pan and provide a more lubricated surface to make unfolding the terrine easier).

Spoon the confit mixture into the loaf pan. Do not wrap the plastic over the terrine.

Refrigerate the terrine, covered, for 4 hours, or until it is set.

The terrine may be prepared up to this point up to two days in advance. Keep covered and refrigerated.

To serve:

Let the terrine stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes. Invert a chilled platter over the terrine, keeping the edges of the plastic wrap outside the pan. Turn both the platter and terrine over. Lift the loaf pan off the terrine and remove the plastic wrap. Cut into 1/2 inch thick slices.

Make the sauce by whipping all of the ingredients together.

This terrine is soft and cuts best with an electric knife.

Serve it on a chilled platter.

Serve the terrine slices on lettuce leaves, surrounded by the onions and cornichons. Place a dollop of the sauce on one corner of the slice or pass the sauce separately..

Classic Duck Confit Terrine

Admittedly bit of a production, the results of this recipe are well worth the time, effort and expense. This is certain to impress even the most jaded gourmet.

Serves 12

For Meat Base:

1/2 pound duck confit, shredded

3 1/2 ounces duck breast meat, very finely chopped

1 ounce bacon, finely chopped

1/4 pound ground veal

For Marinade:

1/4 cup chopped shallots

Skin from 1 Granny Smith apple

2 teaspoons chopped parsley stems

4 juniper berries, lightly crushed (optional)

1 sprig thyme

1 sprig basil

1 1/2 ounces dry vermouth

1 1/2 ounces Madeira

1 ounce cognac

For the Terrine:

Clarified butter

1 ounce chopped button mushrooms or other mushroom

1/4 ounce dried morel mushrooms

Zest of 1/2 orange

Zest of 1/2 lemon

1/2 ounce skinned pistachio nuts (not roasted)

1/4 ounce black truffle (canned or fresh) thinly sliced (if canned, drained before slicing)

1/4 cup dry red wine

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 ounce Calvados

1 egg

1/4 cup whipping cream

2 bay leaves

2 pieces caul fat (12 inches across each)

You’ll also need:

1 (1 liter) terrine mold

Cardboard cut to fit inside the mold, wrapped with plastic and aluminum foil

Bain Marie

Three Days In Advance:

Place meats, shallots, parsley stalks, and apple skin in a non-corrosive bowl.

Tie juniper berries (if used), thyme and basil into a square of cheesecloth. Add this bouquet garni to the meat mixture.

Add the vermouth, Madeira and cognac. Cover and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least one and up to three days.

After marinating, remove the bouquet garni and drain meat mixture in a fine sieve

If you have frozen caul fat, place it in the refrigerator to thaw, following the directions to the left.

Prior To Assembling the Terrine:

These steps must be done immediately prior to baking the terrine.

Soak the morel mushrooms in cold water for 1/2 hour, then drain.

Line the terrine mold with the caul fat sheets. (Cover the bottom and sides of the mold and leave approximately 2 to 3 inches of the sheet extending beyond the rim of the mold. This extra fat will be used to cover the top of the terrine prior to baking).

Preheat the oven to 325° F.

Whip the cream.

To Assemble the Terrine:

Place 1 ounce of clarified butter in a medium saucepan. Add the mushrooms and drained morels. Sauté lightly to heat through, then add the orange and lemon zest, pistachio nuts and truffle slices.

Allow to warm through.

Place the meat mixture in a bowl and add the mushroom mixture.

Deglaze the meat pan with the red wine and allow it to reduce by half. Add the reduced wine to the meat mixture.

Add paprika and Calvados.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Add and mix in the egg.

Fold in the whipped cream.

Pat the meat mixture into the lined terrine mold. Lap the exposed caul fat over the top of the meat mixture. Put the bay leaves on top.

Cover the terrine.

Place the terrine into a larger pan and add boiling water to come up half way on the terrine mold (a Bain Marie).

Bake the terrine in the oven for about one hour – until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean and any accumulated fat around the edges is clear. Internal temperature should be 150° F.

Remove the terrine from the oven, uncover and place the foil-covered cardboard on top. Weight the cardboard with small cans and place the terrine in the refrigerator to cool.

Once cooled, turn out the terrine onto a cutting board. Wipe any solidified fat from the surface of the terrine.

At this point, the terrine may be sliced and served or placed back into the mold for later service.

Serve the terrine on toast points, as an accompaniment to a small salad or with slices of pear, apple or small crudités as an appetizer.

The terrine is best baked in a 1 liter terrine mold with lid, but can also be made in a regular bread loaf pan, tightly covered with foil. Additionally, you’ll need a roasting pan large enough to contain the terrine mold or bread pan, for use as a Bain Marie when baking the terrine.

To press the terrine during cooling, cut a piece of heavy cardboard to fit inside your terrine mold and wrap the cut piece with plastic wrap, then with aluminum foil.

Caul fat is a lacy membrane of very soluble fat that lines the abdomen of many animals and functions as a net to keep internal organs in place. Most caul fat used in cooking comes from pigs.

This essential ingredient can be difficult to find, but most butcher shops will order it.

It comes frozen in a big lump. To use it, thaw the lump in cold water in the refrigerator, then carefully separate the sheets of fat. Use the largest ones for this recipe. Smaller pieces can be used to wrap roasting game birds.

Classic Duck Confit Pâté en Croûte

Taking the already-impressive terrine from the last recipe and elevating it to an almost obscene culinary level, this treatment will leave the afore-mentioned jaded gourmet swooning – simply by adding a plain pastry crust.

Serves 12

Terrine mixture from Classic Duck Confit Terrine, without the bay leaves and caul fat

2 batches Pâte Brisée

2 tablespoons softened butter

2 eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons cream

You’ll also need:

A 1 liter hinged metal terrine mold

Miniature leaf or flower shaped cookie cutters (optional)

For the crust:

Prepare both batches of pastry according to the directions.

Roll out one batch to 1/4 inch thickness in an oblong or rectangular shape to line the bottom and sides of the mold.

Brush the inside of the mold with the softened butter, coating thinly but evenly.

Carefully place the rolled crust in the mold and press tightly to the bottom and sides. Trim any excess, leaving 1/2 inch of pastry overlapping the top of the mold.

To fill the mold:

Prepare the terrine filling, following the recipe instructions. You will not need the bay leaves or caul fat.

Carefully pat the completed filling mixture into the pastry-lined mold, making sure not to leave any air pockets and filling the mold completely. If you have excess filling, mound it in a gentle dome shape on top of the filling in the mold.

To place the top on the terrine:

Roll out the second batch of pastry to 1/4 inch thickness.

Cut a piece slightly larger than, and in the shape of the top of the mold.

Use decorative cookie cutters to cut shapes from the remainder of the dough. These shapes will be used for decoration. Roll a couple of pastry “snakes” for use as decoration. (optional).

Combine the eggs and cream to make an egg wash. Brush the egg wash along the 1/2 inch of pastry extending over the edges of the mold.

Carefully lay the cut piece over the top of the terrine, pressing down to remove any air pockets. Pinch the top and side pieces together, forming a good seal. You can decorate the pinch with the tines of a fork.

Carefully turn the pinched seam to a vertical position all around the mold.

Brush the top of the pastry with a coating of egg wash. Apply any decorative pieces to the top, sticking them to the layer of egg wash. (I usually wind the “snakes” around the top and place pastry leaves next to the “snake” to simulate a vine.)

Brush the decorations with a layer of egg wash.

Cut two or three 1/2 inch steam vents in the top pastry crust.

To bake the terrine:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Place the terrine on a cookie sheet and then in the oven. (You don’t need a water bath because the pastry will insulate the terrine.)

Bake the terrine for an hour.

Increase the oven temperature to 400 ° F. and bake until the crust is golden brown.

Remove the terrine from the oven and allow it to cool completely.

Rabbit Confit Mousse with Chestnuts, Truffles and Truffle Sauce

The combination of rustic rabbit and cabbage presented as a refined mousse with truffles gives this appetizer unique appeal.

You can omit the truffle and truffle sauce and serve the mousse over a reduced veal stock, if desired.

Serves 4

For the mousse:

1 pound shredded rabbit confit meat

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper

3 egg whites

1 pound whole peeled chestnuts

Bouquet garni containing:

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

4 cloves

1 bunch celery leaves

Veal stock

2 cups crème fraîche

Butter

You’ll also need:

4 ( 1/2 cup) molds or six ovenproof coffee cups

Roasting pan for Bain Marie large enough to hold the cups

For the sauce:

1 black truffle (preferably fresh, but preserved if fresh is unavailable)

1/2 cup Madeira

1/2 cup veal stock (use the stock from the braised chestnuts, plus additional, if necessary.)

1 teaspoon tomato paste

1 tablespoon butter

For presentation:

6 cups (loosely packed) shredded cabbage

Truffle slices

Clarified butter

To prepare the mousse:

Put the rabbit confit meat, salt, white pepper and egg whites in the bowl of a food processor and process in pulses until the mixture is very finely chopped, but not pureed.

Refrigerate the processed meat in the covered processor bowl for two hours.

To prepare the chestnuts:

Preheat the oven to 225° F.

Butter the bottom of a flameproof casserole. Place the chestnuts, bouquet garni and enough veal stock to cover in the casserole. Bring the contents to a low simmer.

Cover the casserole and braise the chestnuts in the oven for about 40 minutes, or until the nuts are tender. (Do not stir the nuts while braising; they are delicate and may break apart.)

Carefully remove the chestnuts from the liquid. Discard the bouquet garni and reserve the stock.

Set aside 18 of the best-looking chestnuts for garnish. Finely chop the remainder of the nuts.

Continue preparation of the mousse:

Remove the meat puree from the refrigerator and return the bowl to the processor. With the processor running, add the crème fraîche and chopped nuts.

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Butter the insides of the molds or coffee cups. Spoon the meat mixture into them, distributing it evenly, packing it down tightly.

Cover each mold tightly with a square of aluminum foil.

Place the molds in the roasting pan and pour boiling water around them until the water comes half-way up the sides of the molds.

Bake the molds for 25 to 30 minutes.

To prepare the sauce:

Place the truffle, Madeira, stock and tomato paste in a very small saucepan. (You may need to add some stock to that used for the chestnuts to bring the quantity up to 1/2 cup.) Bring to a boil and simmer the truffle for 10 minutes.

Remove the truffle and dice it.

Swirl the butter into the hot sauce.

Add the truffle dice and keep warm for service (no longer that 20 minutes.

To prepare for presentation:

Steam the cabbage until it is very soft.

Slice the truffle for garnish very thinly and sauté the slices in the clarified butter to warm them through.

To serve:

Place a bed of the steamed cabbage on each of four warmed serving plates.

Unmold a mousse on top of the cabbage.

Fan sautéed truffle slices on top of the mousse.

Pour the sauce around the cabbage and place three cooked chestnuts in the sauce.

Serve immediately.

Salmon Confit and Potato Terrine

This do-ahead recipe makes an equally good appetizer or side dish and can be served hot or cold.

Serves 6

For the terrine:

4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, skinned and sliced very thinly (preferably on a mandolin)

4 shallots, minced

3 garlic cloves, minced

Leaves from 3 fresh thyme sprigs (about 1 tablespoon)

6 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound salmon confit, sliced very thin

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

You’ll also need:

A 1 liter terrine mold

Parchment Paper

Roasting pan for a Bain Marie

Boiling water

For the sauce:

1/4 cup crème fraîche

2 teaspoons water

Pinch white pepper

Pinch cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

To make the sauce:

Whisk all of the ingredients together and chill. Sauce will keep for one day, refrigerated.

To prepare the terrine mold:

Cut a piece of cardboard the size of the interior of your mold. Wrap the cardboard in plastic wrap, then in foil. You’ll use this later to press the terrine.

Cut a strip of parchment paper that is as wide as the terrine mold’s narrow inside dimension. Cut another piece that is as wide as the mold’s wide inside dimension. Brush both pieces of paper with olive oil.

Lay the narrow strip of paper in the mold, pressing it to the bottom and sides. Lay the wide strip over the narrow one, pressing it in as well. This should completely line the mold with paper.

To prepare the terrine:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Cut the potato slices into pieces that will fit into the mold. Do not wash the slices (the potato starch will hold the terrine together).

Combine the shallots, garlic and thyme in a bowl.

Place a layer of potatoes in the bottom of the mold, overlapping them slightly.

Cover the potatoes with 1/4 of the shallot mixture.

Brush the shallot mixture with olive oil.

Place a layer of salmon confit slices on top.

Season the salmon layer lightly with salt and pepper.

Repeat the layers until you have used all of the salmon, ending with a potato layer on top.

Press the layers down evenly.

Place the mold, uncovered, in the roasting pan. Pour boiling water into the roasting pan to come half way up the side of the terrine mold.

Bake for 1 1/2 hours, or until a sharp knife slides easily into the terrine.

Remove the terrine from the Bain Marie and allow it to cool to room temperature.

Place the prepared piece of cardboard on top of the terrine and weigh the cardboard down with a couple of cans of food. Refrigerate the weighted terrine overnight.

To unmold the terrine, run a knife between the parchment paper and the sides of the mold to free the terrine. Turn the terrine out onto a plate.

Cut the terrine into 1 inch slices. (You can optionally sauté the slices briefly to add some golden color to their edges.)

To serve:

Place the terrine slices on plates and nape a corner of them with the sauce.

A few years ago, potato-crusted salmon filets were all the rage in trendy restaurants. Potato gratings “magically” surrounded tender salmon. The effect was easy to achieve by placing a layer of potato in the fry pan, setting the salmon filet on the cooking potatoes and topping the fish with more potatoes. Turning the entire package over browned the second side.

Duck Confit Rillettes on Toasted French Bread

Rillettes are traditionally served as an appetizer or an accompaniment to soups or salads. Try these alongside a simple green salad with mustard vinaigrette.

Makes 6 rillettes

1/2 pound shredded duck confit

1 1/4 pounds fresh pork butt (about one third meat and two thirds fat)

1 tablespoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic, peeled

1 bay leaf

12 drops Tabasco sauce

6 toasted French bread slices

Butter

Cut the pork butt into 1 1/2 inch cubes.

Place the meat pieces in a heavy saucepan with the salt, pepper, garlic and bay leaf. Add enough water to cover the meat with one inch of water.

Bring to a boil and cover. Reduce heat to a simmer and allow to simmer very gently for 4 hours.

Skim any scum from the surface of the water every 20 minutes.

Uncover and cook the pork for another hour to evaporate the water. Watch this process carefully. Remove the pot from the heat as soon as the water has evaporated down to the tops of the pork pieces, or the pork will begin frying in its own fat.

Place the pan in the refrigerator and allow it to cool overnight. This will bring the fat to the top and allow any remaining water to sink to the bottom.

Remove the pork and fat from the pan and discard the garlic clove, bay leaf and any collected water.

Shred the pork finely with your fingers.

Place the pork, shredded duck confit and Tabasco in a large bowl and beat the ingredients together with a spoon; or place the ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer and beat with the paddle attachment for about 30 seconds on low speed.

The mixture should be beaten until soft and smooth, like a pâté.

Taste the mixture and add salt and pepper to taste.

Place the mixture into glass or ceramic containers, cover with plastic wrap and allow to cool overnight in the refrigerator.

Serve the rillette on toasted and buttered French bread slices.

Duck Confit Pâté with Cloudberry-Shallot Relish

Milder in taste than a liver pâté, this version works particularly well as an hors d’ oeuvre before a dinner featuring wild game.
The cloudberries add an unusual apple-like taste to the dish. If you cannot find cloudberries, Alaskan baked-apple berries can be used instead.

Makes 2 1/2 Cups

1 small onion, chopped

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

2 cups shredded duck confit meat

1/3 cup fresh orange juice

2 teaspoons bottled green peppercorns

2 tablespoons duck stock or beef broth

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 teaspoon salt

Hearty bread toast points

Cloudberry-shallot relish

Sauté the onions in two tablespoons of the butter until lightly browned.

Place the onions, confit meat, remaining butter, orange juice, peppercorns, stock or broth, cloves, and salt in a food processor. Pulse until the pâté is smooth, but not puréed.

Transfer the pâté into a ramekin, place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface and pack the pâté tightly. Refrigerate it up to three days, covered.

Serve the pâté with toast points and a little cloudberry-shallot relish on the side.

Monkfish Liver Torchon en Confit with White Pepper Ice Cream, Apple and Apricot Compote and Brioche

Monkfish liver is the ocean’s equivalent of foie gras. Its pale white color, tinged with orange, is both striking and elegant. It is easiest to find in the early spring and can be ordered from most seafood markets.

Here, it is cooked in a roll, then served with fruit and butter-rich breads like brioche. A little spice is added with unique, peppery ice cream to cut the richness of the liver. Cold ice cream, warm liver and hot compote provide temperature contrasts.

Gentle poaching in the manner of confit keeps the liver moist and prevents it from shrinking.

Serves 12

For the ice cream:

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup half-and-half

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

4 egg yolks

⅜ cup sugar

For the torchon:

1 monkfish liver – about 1 to 1 1/2 pounds

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon sodium nitrate (pink salt)

1 1/2 teaspoons cognac

1 pound kosher salt

16 ounces duck fat

16 ounces olive oil

For the compote:

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup butter

2 Granny Smith apples, diced

1/4 pound dried apricots (unsulphured), diced

1 large shallot, diced fine

1/8 cup rice wine vinegar

For presentation:

Brioche rounds, sliced 1/3 inch thick and toasted

Coarsely ground fresh black pepper

Gray sea salt (fleur de sel or Maldon sea salt)

You’ll also need:

A one-yard square of clean, food grade cheesecloth

Kitchen string

An instant-read meat thermometer

An ice-cream maker

To prepare the ice cream:

In a saucepan over medium heat, combine the cream, half-and-half, and vanilla bean. Whisk in the white pepper and stir the mixture slowly to keep it from scorching. When the mixture reaches a simmer (do not let it boil), turn off the heat. Remove the mixture from the stove and set it aside for 10 to 15 minutes to allow it to cool slightly and to allow the vanilla to infuse.

In a medium glass or metal bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar.

Whisking constantly, slowly pour the still-hot cream mixture into the egg yolk mixture to create a custard.

Return the custard to the saucepan and cook it over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When the temperature reaches about 160° F., it will give off a puff of steam. When it gets to 180° F., it will be thickened and creamy. Remove the custard from the heat at 180 degrees.

(If you do not have a thermometer, test the custard by dipping a wooden spoon into the mixture. Run your finger down the back of the spoon. If the stripe remains clear, the custard is ready; if the edges blur, the custard is not quite thick enough.)

Half-fill a large bowl with ice water. Strain the custard into a smaller bowl to remove the vanilla bean and any curdled egg clumps. Rest the smaller bowl in the ice water and let the custard cool, stirring often.

Process the custard in the ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions.

To prepare the torchon:

Clean the monkfish liver by carefully removing any veins, blood spots and nerves.

Combine the first two teaspoons of salt, the pepper, and the sodium nitrate. Rub this mixture over the surface of the liver, and then sprinkle the liver with the cognac. Place the liver in a covered bowl and refrigerate it for one hour.

Moisten the cheese cloth and spread it out on a large work surface. Remove the liver from the bowl and center it about eight inches from the edge of the cheesecloth. Wrap the eight inches up and over the liver. Use the cheesecloth to gently shape the liver into a narrow cylinder, about 1 1/2 to 2 inches across and extending toward the ends as necessary. This cylinder is the torchon. Roll the torchon up in the cheesecloth like a cigar. Twist the ends of the cheesecloth and tie them with kitchen string. Tie a couple of loose bands of kitchen string around the torchon at even intervals.

Place the torchon in a shallow pan, cover the pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate the torchon for one hour.

Meanwhile, prepare a second shallow pan by filling it with the one pound of kosher salt. Spread the salt evenly in the bottom of the pan.

Place the refrigerated torchon in the second pan and nestle it into the salt. Scoop additional salt over the top of the torchon to evenly cover it with a layer of salt. Cover the pan and refrigerate the torchon for 9 to 10 hours.

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Remove the torchon from the refrigerator. Carefully brush as much salt as possible off the torchon (some salt will remain in the folds and crevices of the cheesecloth).

Put the cold duck fat into a large sauté pan. Place the torchon into the fat. Pour enough olive oil into the pan to barely cover the torchon.

Place the torchon in the oven. Bake it until the internal temperature of the torchon reaches 135° F., about 1 hour.

Remove the torchon from the duck fat and drain it on a wire rack.

Remove the cheesecloth from the torchon once it has cooled enough to handle.

Either slice and serve it immediately or wrap it in plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

To prepare the compote:

Place all of the ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Simmer the mixture until the apples are and apricots are soft and just begin to lose their shape.

Cool the compote and refrigerate it at least overnight to meld the flavors.

Bring the compote to room temperature before serving.

To serve:

Place a 1/4 inch slice of liver in the center of each serving plate.

Place a tablespoon full of the compote next to the liver.

Place a small scoop of the ice cream on the other side of the liver.

Place a couple slices of brioche toast on the edge of the plate.

Garnish the liver with freshly cracked pepper and sea salt.

Serve immediately.

Soups, Salads and Sandwiches

Butternut Squash Bisque with Duck Confit and Cracklings

The chilly nights and earth-toned colors of autumn make an excellent backdrop for this soup. Serve it before a hearty beef roast or as a complete meal for lunch.

Serves 4 to 6

1 duck leg confit (about 1/2 pound)

1 large pear, peeled, halved and cored, in 1/4 inch slices

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

2 pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded, quartered and cut into 1/4 inch slices

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 teaspoon curry powder

4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 cup duck stock

(or 5 cups chicken stock instead of the chicken and duck stock.)

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey

Kosher salt

White pepper

1/4 cup crème fraîche

Peel the skin off the confit and reserve. Remove the meat from the bones, discarding the bones, and shred the meat.

Cut the reserved duck skin into thin strips. In a small non-stick sauté pan cook the skin strips over moderate heat until their fat is rendered and the skin is crisp and golden brown. Transfer the cracklings with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain and season them to taste with salt and pepper.

Melt the butter in a 6 quart stock pot over moderate heat. Add the pear, onion and squash slices and cook until the onion is translucent, but not browned. Stir in the curry powder. Stir in the broths, cover the pot partially and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until the vegetables are very tender (about 20 minutes).

Strain the mixture into a clean stock pot.

Puree the cooked vegetables in batches in a blender, adding a little of the cooking liquid to help keep the puree smooth.

Add the puree to the stock pot containing the cooking liquid and stir to blend.

Add the lemon juice and honey.

Add salt and pepper to taste

Use the soup immediately or refrigerate it for up to two days. Reheat he soup before continuing.

In a non-stick sauté pan, heat duck meat over moderate heat, stirring, just until hot and season with salt and pepper.

To serve:

Pour hot soup into each of six soup bowls or plates.

Strew the duck meat on the surface of the soup.

Garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche.

Cauliflower Soup with Duck Confit and Dijon Mustard Ice Cream

I’ll admit it; soup with ice cream seems strange. So does mustard ice cream. They are, however, great taste and texture compliments. You can omit the ice cream or even the confit for that matter and still have an excellent soup to serve.

You’ll have to make the ice cream in advance, so its recipe is listed before the soup’s.

Serves 6

Dijon Mustard Ice Cream

Makes 1 quart (more than you’ll need for this recipe, but you can keep it in the freezer for up to a month).

1 egg

5 tablespoons sugar

1/2 (14 ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

1 cup whipping cream

1/2 cup half and half

1/4 cup crème fraîche

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Zest of 1/2 lemon

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

In a mixing bowl, lightly whisk the egg. Add the sugar and condensed milk. Mix thoroughly.

Add whipping cream, half and half, crème fraîche , vanilla extract, lemon juice, zest and mustard. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate for four hours.

Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cauliflower Soup with Duck Confit

1 stalk celery, chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1 medium onion, chopped

2 shallots, chopped

2 tablespoons canola oil

3 cups chopped raw cauliflower (flowerets only)

1/2 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup sherry

1 quart fresh chicken stock

Bouquet Garni containing:

1 bay leaf

5 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon peppercorns

Juice of 1 lemon

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 cup cream

Salt

Freshly ground white pepper

2 cups shredded duck confit meat

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

In a large saucepan over medium heat, sauté the celery, onion, garlic, shallots and cauliflower for about 5 minutes, or until the onion is transparent.

Stir in the wine and cook over high heat until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the sherry and cook until you can no longer smell the alcohol. Add the stock and bouquet garni, bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes.

Remove the bouquet garni and pour the soup in batches into a blender. Blend until very smooth. Strain the soup through a fine sieve.

Return the soup to the saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the lemon juice and Worcestershire sauce. Whip in the cream and heat the soup through, but do not let it boil.

Season with salt and (white) pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, heat the confit, covered, in a warm oven.

To assemble:

Ladle the hot soup into six heated soup plates.

Sprinkle the duck confit meat around the edge of the soup.

Immediately before serving, place a quenelle of the ice cream in the center of each bowl and sprinkle the thyme leaves over the top.

Roasted Red Pepper and Elephant Garlic Confit Soup

Roasted peppers give a smoky flavor and brilliant color to this end-of-summer soup. The peppers can be roasted either over an open flame or in the oven.

Serves 4 to 6

5 red bell peppers

1/3 cup chopped elephant garlic confit

2 cups chicken stock

1 cup tomato puree

1 tablespoon honey

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 fresh basil leaves

To roast the peppers over an open flame:

Skewer a pepper with a large kitchen fork or barbecue fork at the base end. Hold the pepper closely over the flame, rotating it with the fork, until the entire surface is charred. Repeat for the remainder of the peppers.

To roast the peppers in the oven:

Preheat the broiler.

Place the peppers on a baking sheet about 4 inches from the heat element. Roast until the tops are charred, then turn the peppers, repeating until the entire surface is charred.

To prepare the peppers:

Place the roasted peppers in a bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Allow the peppers to cool in the bowl.

Once cooled, carefully peel the charred skin off the peppers. Do not do this under running water, as vital flavor will be washed away.

Cut the peppers in quarters and remove the stem, seeds and internal membrane.

To prepare the soup:

Place the roasted pepper quarters and the garlic confit in a blender. Process them until they are smooth.

Add enough chicken stock to bring the liquid level to half the blender capacity and blend briefly.

Pour the pepper puree into a large saucepan. Add the remainder of the chicken stock, the tomato puree, the honey and the lemon juice. Stir to combine.

Heat the soup over medium heat.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Immediately before service, stack the basil leaves and roll them up as if making a cigar. Cut the roll crosswise into thin strips (chiffonade).

To serve:

The soup can be served either hot or cold. If you will be serving the soup cold, be sure to adjust the salt and pepper seasonings after the soup has cooled. Pour the soup into soup bowls and garnish with the basil chiffonade.

Duck Confit Salad in Tomato Bowls

In addition to a salad presentation, the filling in this recipe is also good on a sandwich.

Serves 4

4 cups jasmine-curry duck confit or traditional duck confit, chopped in large pieces

1 large shallot, minced

1 cup diced, unpeeled red apple

1/4 cup chopped pecans

1 teaspoon curry powder

1/3 cup mayonnaise

4 tablespoons whipping cream

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Salt

4 Boston lettuce leaves or 4 hollowed-out tomatoes (for presentation)

4 medium firm red or yellow tomatoes, with stems attached

To prepare the salad:

Combine the duck, shallot, apple and pecans in a bowl and toss gently. Combine mayonnaise, cream and vinegar in a separate bowl. Stir the curry powder into the mayonnaise mixture.

Add the mayonnaise mixture to the duck mixture and stir together. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Serve chilled on lettuce leaves or in tomato shells, garnished with extra pecan pieces.

For tomato shells:

Bring a pot of water to boil.

Cut a 1/4 inch X through the skin in the bottom of each tomato (opposite the stem end). Blanch the tomatoes for 10 seconds in the boiling water. Starting with the X in the bottom of the tomato, remove the peel, leaving the stem.

Cut the top off each tomato in a manner similar to making a jack-o’-lantern lid.

Clean out the pulp and seeds from the tomatoes, being careful not to damage the shell.

Fill the shells with the salad and replace the top.

This method for tomato shells is adaptable to a wide variety of applications. Fill them with hot sauced pasta or scrambled eggs. Baked for a short while in the oven, they hold a meat loaf mixture for a bit of extra elegance.

Duck Confit and Crackling Salad with Roasted Walnuts

Seen in restaurants all across southern France, this kind of salad is perfect for a light luncheon or as a salad course in a larger meal. The confit can be served either cold or warm.

6 Servings

For the dressing:

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons balsamic or red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1/2 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons melted duck fat

1 tablespoon finely minced shallots

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the roasted walnuts:

1 cup walnut meat in large chunks

1 tablespoon melted butter

For the salad:

6 ounces frisée or mixed frisée and mesclun salad greens

12 ounces shredded duck confit meat

6 ounces duck skin cracklings

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Coat the walnut pieces with the butter and spread them on a baking sheet.

Bake the nuts, stirring frequently, in the preheated oven for 7 to 10 minutes or until they darken on the edges. Be careful not to burn them.

Place all dressing ingredients into a bowl and whisk until blended.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Wash and dry the salad greens. Gently dress the greens with the dressing, coating evenly. Divide the dressed greens among six plates.

Place a mound of confit on each salad.

Sprinkle the salads with the cracklings and walnuts.

Serve immediately.

Warm Crosne and Duck Confit Salad

When the weather cools, this warm salad makes a wonderful starter for a hearty meal.

Serves 4

1 pound crosnes

1/2 cup coarse sea salt

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 tablespoon butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 duck confit leg, deboned, skinned and shredded

1 teaspoon raspberry vinegar

1 teaspoon sunflower oil

1 shallot, very finely minced

1/2 cup crumbled goat’s milk cheese (such as Chabichou or Pouligny-Saint-Pierre)

1 bunch chervil leaves, roughly chopped

To prepare the crosnes:

Place the crosnes in a kitchen towel, along with the sea salt. Wrap the towel closed and rub the salt and crosnes together to scrub the skin off the crosnes. Rinse the salt and skin away from the crosnes under running water.

Cook the crosnes in salted boiling water with the lemon juice for 6 to 8 minutes. Drain and dry the crosnes.

Sauté the crosnes over medium heat in the butter until slightly colored.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble the salads:

Combine the vinegar, oil and shallots to make a dressing.

While the crosnes are warm, toss them with the dressing.

Combine the crosnes and confit. Garnish with the cheese and chervil. Serve while warm.

Crosnes (pronounced kroˉnz) are very small tubers with the gentle flavor of Jerusalem artichokes. They were introduced to Western kitchens in the late 1800’s, having been used in Oriental cooking for centuries. Another name for Crosnes is Chinese Artichokes.

Gastrique is a caramel made with sugar and vinegar instead of vinegar and water.

It is frequently used when the characteristics of a caramel - browned and rich flavors - are wanted, but the sweetness of the sugar needs to be offset with a tart taste.

Mesclun Salad with Confited Duck Gizzards Wild Mushrooms and Caramelized Pears

This cool weather salad takes advantage of earthy tastes from the gizzards and mushrooms and elevates their flavor with sweet but tangy pears, caramelized in a light gastrique.

Serves 4

For the dressing:

1 tablespoon shallot, finely chopped

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

For the mushrooms:

1/2 pound mixed wild mushrooms, sliced

1 teaspoon butter

For the pears:

2 firm-fleshed pears, such as Bartlett

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

For the salad:

4 cups mesclun greens

20 confited duck gizzards, warmed

To prepare the dressing:

In a small bowl, whisk the shallots, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. While still whisking, slowly add the oil in a steady stream.

The dressing may be kept in a covered container, refrigerated, for up to three days. Return it to room temperature before using.

To prepare the mushrooms:

Melt the butter in a large sauté pan. Add the mushroom slices and sauté them for about five minutes, or until they are warmed through,

Set them aside and keep them warm. You may warm the gizzards in the same pan, if desired.

To prepare the pears:

Peel the pears and cut each into eight wedges. Remove the stems and seeds.

Place the pears in a medium sauce or sauté pan. Add the butter and enough water to cover the pear pieces.

Bring the pears to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer. As the pears cook, the water will evaporate and the butter will begin to sizzle. At this point, turn the pears to slightly brown them on each side.

Remove the pears from the pan.

Add the vinegar and sugar to the pan and stir to dissolve the sugar and any cooked bits on the bottom of the pan. (Be careful, the fumes from the heated vinegar can be very strong.)

Cook the vinegar and sugar mixture over medium heat until the sugar begins to brown slightly.

Return the pears to the pan and coat them with the sugar/vinegar mixture.

To serve:

Place one cup of mesclun on each of four serving plates. Dress the mesclun with the dressing.

Place five warmed gizzards, an equal portion of mushrooms and two pear pieces on each plate.

Serve warm.

Salad Niçoise et Confit

I can’t think of a better way to use confit in a composed salad, this adaptation is equally as good with either the classic tuna or a surprise of salmon confit.

Serves 6

For the dressing:

1 shallot, finely minced

4 fluid ounces red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

salt

freshly ground black pepper

12 ounces extra-virgin olive oil

12 basil leaves, cut into chiffonade ribbons

For the salad:

12 large romaine lettuce leaves

6 tomatoes, cut into wedges

1 1/2 pounds cucumbers, peeled and sliced

12 ounces haricot vert

6 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into wedges

1 can artichoke hearts

2 pounds tuna confit or salmon confit, removed from oil and chilled

4 ounces niçoise olives

To prepare the dressing:

In a small bowl, whisk the shallots, vinegar, mustard, salt and pepper. While still whisking, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Add the basil ribbons to the combined dressing.

To prepare the salad components:

Keep each component of this salad separate until just before service; their individual characteristics will make the salad cleaner and more interesting.

Wash and dry the chicory and romaine. Roll the leaves in paper towels and keep refrigerated.

Bring a pot of water to simmer and add 1/2 teaspoon of salt per quart of water.

Fill a large bowl with ice water.

Trim and cook the haricot verts until tender, but still crisp (al dente). Immediately plunge the beans into the ice water to stop the cooking and set their color.

Drain the artichoke hearts.

To assemble the salad:

Assemble this salad just before service.

Chill a large platter and line it with the romaine leaves. Lightly dress the leaves with the dressing.

Arrange the remaining salad ingredients on the platter in any pattern of your choice, dressing each lightly before placing it on the platter. (It is traditional to place the tuna in the center of the plate and to group the other ingredients individually around the fish.

Serve immediately.

This terrine makes an excellent centerpiece for a luncheon salad. Simply build the terrine as instructed, but surround it with salad greens, then add the dollop of dressing and tomato confit.

Terrine of Pecan-Smoked Chicken Confit, Oatcakes and Red Pepper Jam with Confit Tomatoes and Thyme Mayonnaise

Bright colors and rich flavors in a stunning presentation make this an excellent starter for a special meal. This is “architectural” cooking at its finest. The resulting stack of red and yellow peppers and smoked chicken confit is truly taller than it is wide.

You can make this same terrine without smoking the confit, or using regular smoked chicken instead of the confit. The result will still be impressive.

The terrine must chill overnight, so plan ahead.

Serves 6

For the oat cakes:

⅔ cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

⅔ cup quick-cooking rolled oats

1/3 cup vegetable shortening

1/8 cup ice water

Additional flour for rolling out the dough

For the red pepper jam:

3 large sweet red peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped

5 1/2 cups sugar

1 cup red wine vinegar

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 bottle liquid pectin

For the terrine:

1 package unflavored gelatin

1 1/3 cups chicken stock

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 small clove garlic, crushed

1 sweet red pepper, roasted

1 sweet yellow pepper, roasted

2 chicken confit legs, skinned

2 cups oil packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained

For garnish:

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

6 tablespoons crème fraîche

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 cup tomato confit, chopped

You’ll also need:

A clean 6-ounce tomato paste can with the ends removed or a cookie/ring cutter with a similar diameter

An outdoor smoker or indoor smoking pan

Pecan wood smoking chips

A 1 liter terrine mold

To prepare the oat cakes:

Preheat the oven to 375° F.

Sift the flour, sugar, salt baking soda and nutmeg into a large mixing bowl. Stir lightly to combine. Mix in the oats.

Cut in the shortening until the mixture’s lumps are the size of peas.

Add water, stirring, until the mixture holds together, but is not runny.

Lightly flour your work surface and roll the dough out to 1/4 inch thickness.

Using a tomato paste can or similar-sized round cookie cutter, cut the dough into rounds.

Place the rounds on a cookie sheet and bake for about 15 minutes, or until just browned.

Cool the cakes to room temperature on a wire rack.

The oat cakes can be prepared up to a week in advance. Store them at room temperature in an airtight container.

To prepare the red pepper jam:

Puree the red pepper pieces in a food processor or blender until smooth. Press the puree through a sieve and discard any remaining seeds or pieces of skin.

Place red pepper puree, sugar and vinegar in a heavy medium sauce pan. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, stirring continuously.

Remove from the heat, let stand 15 minutes.

Reheat to boiling, stir in the lemon juice.

Let the mixture come to a boil, then add the pectin.

Boil for 5 minutes, stirring constantly. Remove the preserves from the heat and allow them to cool slightly. Transfer the preserves to a glass or ceramic bowl, and refrigerate, covered until ready to use.

The preserves may be prepared up to a week in advance.

To prepare the terrine:

Smoke the chicken confit for 30 to 45 minutes according to your smoker’s manufacturer’s directions. The meat should just be warmed through.

Allow the confit to return to room temperature.

Cut the roasted peppers into 1 inch slices.

Shred the smoked chicken confit.

Roughly chop the sun-dried tomatoes.

Dissolve the gelatin in 1/3 cup of the stock for 5 minutes.

Place the remaining stock into a small saucepan. Pull the thyme leaves from stem. Roughly chop the leaves and add them to the stock in the saucepan. Add the garlic and bring just to a boil, then reduce the heat. Add the dissolved gelatin and cold stock to the hot stock. Heat gently, stirring until the gelatin has been incorporated.

Pour the stock into a heatproof measuring cup and allow it to cool until it turns slightly syrupy. Do not allow it to set.

Line the terrine mold with plastic wrap so that it comes over the sides of the mold. Press the plastic wrap gently into the corners without piercing it. Stir the cooled stock to distribute the thyme, then spoon a 1/4 inch layer into the lined mold.

Arrange a third of the peppers in the bottom of the mold, alternating between red and yellow pieces. Arrange one third of the shredded chicken in an even layer on top of the peppers. Make a third layer with one third of the sun-dried tomatoes.

Pour one third of the remaining stock over the first three layers.

Repeat the layers and stock addition twice, creating three sets of layers and stock.

Fold the excess plastic wrap over the top of the layers and refrigerate the terrine for at least 8 hours.

For garnish:

Remove the thyme leaves from the stem.

Mix the mayonnaise and crème fraîche with the thyme leaves and plenty of black pepper. Refrigerate the sauce until ready to use.

To assemble and serve:

Place a small dab of red pepper jam in the center of each of six serving plates. (This will help anchor the presentation.)

Place an oat cake on the jam. Spread the oat cake with a thin layer of jam.

Place another oat cake on the first and spread it with jam.

Turn the terrine out on a cutting board and divide it into six equal sections. Using the tomato paste can or ring cutter as a guide, carve each into a cylinder the same diameter as the can.

Or, if your ring cutter is sharp and deep, you may be able to leave the terrine in the mold and cut the cylinders by pressing the ring cutter down from the top.

Carefully transfer one terrine cylinder to the top of each oat cake stack.

Place a dollop of the thyme mayonnaise next to each stack.

Sprinkle pieces of tomato confit around the plate.

The potato baskets used here are fit containers for not only this , but other salads and hot dishes.

Use them to dress up a simple green salad.

Duck Confit and Preserved Baby Artichoke Salad with Truffle Dressing in Potato Baskets

This is my version of a confit dish I tasted once in Boston. That dish was made with rabbit prepared in a confit style. I’ve chosen to substitute duck confit.

This salad is delicious on a plate by itself, with autumn fruit slices or cheese – either with or without the potato basket.

Serves 6

For the preserved artichokes:

10 baby artichokes cleaned and trimmed

1 lemon, cut in half

1 bunch of Rosemary

2 cups white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

Extra-virgin olive oil

For the potato baskets:

3 large potatoes, peeled and shredded

1 egg

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable cooking spray

You’ll also need:

6 one-cup oven-proof bowls or ramekins

For the truffle dressing:

1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 ounces extra-virgin olive oil

3 ounces Truffle oil

Salt

For the salad:

6 cups baby greens, washed and dried

2 cups shredded duck confit meat

To prepare the artichokes:

Prepare the artichokes at least three days in advance so they will have time to cure.

Place the artichokes in a pot containing about three quarts of cold water. Add the lemon, rosemary, vinegar and sugar. Bring to boil, and then reduce heat to a simmer. Simmer the artichokes for about 15 minutes or until they are tender. Strain the artichokes, discarding the lemon and rosemary. Allow the artichokes to cool.

Place the artichokes in a jar. Fill the jar with olive oil and close tightly.

Artichokes can be kept in the jar, refrigerated for up to one month.

To prepare the potato baskets:

(Do not shred the potatoes too far in advance. They will turn brown.)

Preheat the oven to 450° F.

Beat the egg in a medium bowl.

Add the potato shreds and salt and pepper to taste.

Place the bowls upside down on a baking sheet. Spray them lightly with the spray oil.

Divide the potatoes into six portions and shape one portion to the bottom of each bowl. The potato layer should be no more than 1/4 inch thick and any gaps or holes are OK.

Bake the potato baskets in the oven for about 12 to 15 minutes, or until they are golden brown and crisp.

Remove the baskets from the oven and allow them to cool. Once cool, gently lift the baskets off the bowls and remove the bowls from the baking sheet.

Turn the baskets right-side-up on the baking sheet and return them to the oven for another five minutes to crisp the insides.

Once crisped, cool the baskets on a wire rack.

The baskets can be stored overnight in an airtight container.

To prepare the truffle aioli:

Place the egg yolk and mustard in a small bowl and mix well.

Whisking rapidly, add small drops of the olive oil bit by bit to form an emulsion.

Once all of the olive oil has been added, continue whisking and add the truffle oil.

Salt to taste.

The truffle dressing will keep only for a couple of hours, so do not prepare it too far in advance.

To assemble the dish:

Remove the artichokes from the oil and drain them. Strip the leaves from the stems, reserving the stems, but discarding the purple or brown choke (the fuzzy stuff in the center of the artichoke).

Cut the stems into halves or quarters.

Cut the leaves into thin strips (julienne).

Mix the artichokes, baby greens and duck confit and place it in the potato baskets.

Dress with the truffle dressing.

Warm Pork Confit and Apple-Stilton Relish Salad

Blue cheeses, apples and pork are famous taste companions. In this warm presentation, they combine to create a wonderful winter salad.

Serves 4

For the salad:

1 pound pork confit, sliced

4 whole Granny Smith apples, diced

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/3 cup red onion, diced

1/2 cup parsley, minced

1 cup crumbled Stilton cheese

2 cups mesclun salad

1 cup baby spinach leaves

For the dressing:

3 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1 clove garlic, minced

For garnish (optional):

2 leeks, white part only, julienned

Vegetable oil for frying (cold)

To prepare the salad:

Warm the pork confit if it is cold by placing it, covered in a 250 ° F. oven for 15 to 20 minutes.

Sprinkle the apple with the lemon juice and stir together with the onion, parsley and Stilton to make the relish.

To prepare the dressing:

Combine all of the dressing ingredients in a tightly sealed jar and shake until well combined.

To prepare the garnish:

If using the leek garnish, place the leek julienne in the cold oil in a medium heavy saucepan. Place the saucepan over medium-high heat and bring to a temperature of 350° F. The leeks will begin to curl and fry. As they barely turn golden, remove them from the oil and place on paper towels to drain. They will crisp as they cool.

To assemble the salads:

Combine the mesclun salad and spinach leaves. Gently toss the greens salad with just enough dressing to coat them lightly.

Divide the greens among 4 serving plates.

Place a mound of the relish on top of the greens.

Fan slices of the warmed pork confit on top of the relish.

Top the pork with a mound of fried leek.

Serve while warm.

Salmon Confit Salad with Fresh Fruit Salsa and Mango Vinaigrette

Refreshing and light, this colorful salad plays on the wonderful flavor relationship between salmon and fruit.

The salad must be assembled at the last minute because the salsa and dressing will discolor the salmon if the two are left in contact for too long.

Serves 4

4 salmon confit filets, skinned, brought to room temperature and sliced into 1/4 inch slices,

2 cups Mesclun leaves

Salt

Pepper

Cilantro or watercress sprigs

For the Salsa:

1/2 cup cantaloupe, diced

1/2 cup fresh pineapple, diced

1/4 cup red bell pepper, skinned and diced

1/4 cup yellow bell pepper skinned and diced

1/4 cup red onion, diced

1 1/2 tablespoons lime juice

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon minced jalapeno pepper

1/2 teaspoon salt

Zest of 1 lime

For the vinaigrette:

1 ripe mango, peeled and cut into chunks

1/2 cup passion fruit juice

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar

⅔ cup peanut oil

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Zest of 1 lime

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon Asian chili sauce (optional)

To prepare the salsa:

Combine all of the ingredients and chill. Salsa should be made fresh, but can be kept, covered and refrigerated for one day.

To prepare the dressing:

Blend the mango and passion fruit juice in a blender. Add the vinegar and blend again.

With the blender running, slowly add the peanut oil until it is incorporated.

Add the ginger, garlic, mint, cilantro, and lime zest. Pulse a couple of times to evenly distribute the ingredients.

Add salt and pepper to taste, along with the chili sauce, if desired

To assemble the salads:

Place about 1/4 cup of the mesclun in the center of each of four salad plates.

Surround the greens with a ring of the salsa.

Sprinkle about one tablespoon of dressing on each salad.

Top the greens with a fan of sliced salmon.

Drizzle additional dressing on top of the salmon and garnish with cilantro or watercress sprigs.

Serve immediately.

Grilled Duck Confit Sandwiches

This is a warm variation of the sandwich that got me addicted to duck confit. Serve these sandwiches with a steaming hot bowl of tomato soup, or cut them in small, decorative shapes and serve them as hors d’ oeuvres.

Serves 6

12 slices sourdough bread

6 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

12 ounces duck confit

3 ounces tomato confit, roughly chopped

6 ounces mild goat cheese, crumbled

12 sweet basil or baby spinach leaves, stemmed

Freshly ground black pepper

Heat a griddle to low heat. As a test for griddle temperature, water droplets should barely dance on its surface.

Butter one side of each bread slice with 1/2 tablespoon of butter.

Place six bread slices, buttered side down on a piece of wax or parchment paper. Spread a light coating of mustard on each of the slices.

Top each slice with a portion of the duck confit. Top the confit with a portion of the tomato confit. Top the tomatoes with a portion of the cheese. Place two leaves of basil or spinach on each sandwich. Grind pepper on each sandwich to taste.

Top each sandwich with a piece of bread, buttered side up.

Place the sandwiches on the griddle. They should brown very slowly for 4 to 6 minutes on each side. If they brown faster than this, your griddle is too hot.

Serve sandwiches warm.

Slow grilling is the key to getting golden-brown bread while still giving the cheese time to warm and melt.
If your griddle is too hot, the bread will burn before the cheese gets a chance to melt.
If you have a panini grill, you can use it instead of the griddle. If doing so, omit the butter and toast the sandwiches according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Light Main Courses

Oriental Duck Confit Ravioli

This recipe is fun to prepare and stunning to serve, with a unique combination of Eastern ingredients in a Western presentation.

Serves 4

For the ravioli stuffing:

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 carrot, very finely diced (brunoise)

1 scallion, white and green parts, finely chopped (brunoise)

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon fresh grated ginger

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon white sesame seeds

1/2 teaspoon chili paste (optional)

1 tablespoon sesame oil

Confit meat from 4 duck legs, shredded

Salt

White pepper

For the broth:

4 cups reduced duck stock

1 one inch knob fresh ginger, peeled

1 ounce butter

1 ounce canola oil

1 carrot, julienned in 4” strips

1 scallion, julienned in 4” strips

1 small daikon, julienned in 4” strips

For the raviolis:

24 3” round wonton wrappers

Egg wash

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (for garnish)

To prepare the ravioli stuffing:

Heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter and canola oil.

Sauté the brunoise carrot, brunoise scallion, thyme leaves, grated ginger and minced garlic until the carrots are barely al-dente.

Add the sesame seeds, chili paste (if used) and shredded confit. Stir to heat the duck through. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove the duck mixture from the heat and keep warm.

To prepare the broth:

Place the duck stock in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add the ginger knob and simmer for 10 minutes. Remove the ginger and keep the stock warm.

Warm a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add the butter and oil. Add the julienned carrot, julienned scallion and julienned daikon and sweat until soft. Remove the vegetables from the sauté pan and add to the warmed stock.

To assemble the raviolis:

Heat a large pot of water to boiling. Add salt in the ratio of one teaspoon per gallon.

Separate the wonton wrappers and array 12 of them on a work surface.

Place 1 tablespoon of stuffing mixture in the center of each wrapper, leaving at least 1/4 inch border around each mound.

Paint egg wash on the exposed border edges of each wrapper.

Place a second wrapper on top of each mound and carefully press the edges to seal the raviolis. Be careful to press as much air out of the raviolis as possible.

Place the completed raviolis in the boiling salted water and cook for 1 1/2 minutes.

To serve:

Ladle the broth and vegetables into each of four soup plates.

Place three cooked raviolis in each soup plate.

Sprinkle with fresh thyme leaves.

Duck Confit Pot-Stickers with Ginger-Soy Sauce

Ever wonder how Chinese restaurants get that “crispy on the outside, soft on the inside” texture in their dumplings? This recipe reveals that Oriental pastry secret, wrapped around a delicious confit filling.

Makes 32 dumplings

For the filling:

2 cups baby spinach leaves, stemmed

4 ounces finely chopped citrus-ginger duck confit or traditional duck confit

2 tablespoons minced shallot

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon minced carrot

1 tablespoon ponzu joyu sauce

2 teaspoons sesame seeds, toasted

2 teaspoons sesame oil

For the Dumplings:

32 square or round wonton wrappers

1/2 cup chicken broth (canned or homemade)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

Chives, cut in 2 inch pieces, for garnish (optional)

For the sauce:

1/4 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup mirin

1/4 cup water

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon finely sliced scallion

2 1/2 teaspoons shredded fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon chile oil

1/2 teaspoon sesame oil

For garnish:

Chive stems, cut into 2” pieces (optional)

To make the filling:

Place a medium saucepan of water over medium-high heat and bring to a simmer.

Blanch the spinach leaves in the simmering water for 15 seconds, or until just wilted.

Remove the leaves immediately and place them in a bowl of ice water to refresh them.

Drain the leaves and dry them.

Chop the leaves into large pieces, then combine them with the confit, shallot, garlic, carrot, ponzu joyu, sesame seeds and sesame oil in a bowl and refrigerate until ready to fill the dumplings.

To fill the dumplings:

If using square wonton wrappers, place two teaspoons of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the edges of the wrapper with water. Bring the points of the corners up to meet in over the center of the filling. Press the edges together, pressing all air out of the center and forming a pyramid shape.

Repeat for the remainder of the wrappers.

If using round wonton wrappers, place two teaspoons of filling in the center of a wrapper. Moisten the edges of the wrapper with water.

Bring the edges together, pressing all air out of the center and forming a half-moon shape. Stand the dumpling up so the sealed edge is upright and press down to flatten the bottom. Form the sealed edges into a ruffled shape.

Repeat for the remainder of the wrappers.

Filled dumplings can be refrigerated for a couple of hours before cooking.

To make the sauce:

Bring the soy sauce, mirin, water and sugar to a boil over medium heat. Stir in the remainder of the ingredients.

The sauce can be refrigerated for up to two days. Reheat it before using.

To cook the dumplings:

Place the chicken broth in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer.

Place two tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Heat the oil until it shimmers, but not until it smokes.

Place the dumplings, flat side down in a single layer in the oil. Fry the dumplings until the bottoms are brown, about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.

Carefully add the simmering broth to the dumplings, taking care not to tip them over.

Cover the pan and continue to cook until the broth is absorbed. This should take 2 1/2 to 3 minutes.

Uncover the pan and let the dumplings continue to fry until the bottoms are again crisp.

Remove the dumplings and serve immediately.

To serve:

Place a small warmed bowl in the center of each of six dinner plates and pour the sauce into the bowl. Place the dumplings around the bowl and sprinkle the entire plate with chive strips.

Ponzu joyu, available in most Asian markets and some supermarkets, is a slightly salty citrus flavored clear sauce with hints of lime, orange and grapefruit.

If you can’t find ponzu, use a similar amount of mixed citrus juices.

A mixture with two parts grapefruit and one part each of lime and orange, with a little soy sauce works well.

In Japan, ponzu joyu is a mixture of juzu and sudachi (both citrus-like in flavor) and soy sauce, and sometimes includes dried fish and mushrooms.

Duck Confit on Seared Sweet Potato Rounds with Pear-Shallot Chutney

As eye-catching as it is flavorful, this recipe makes an excellent appetizer or lunch entrée. All of the components can be prepared in advance, then warmed and assembled at serving time.

Serves 6

For the chutney:

1 tablespoon butter

6 medium shallots

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup light brown sugar

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 1/2 teaspoons red pepper flakes

1 cup sliced red onion

1 clove garlic, sliced thinly

1 cup raisins

1/4 cup julienned fresh ginger

4 firm pears (such as Bosc or Sickle)

For the confit and sweet potato rounds:

1 1/2 cups shredded duck confit meat

2 medium sweet potatoes

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons melted duck fat

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6 quail eggs (optional)

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar (needed only if using quail eggs)

6 tablespoons reduced duck stock

6 teaspoons Dijon mustard

You’ll also need:

1 medium bowl of ice water (needed only if using quail eggs)

To prepare the chutney:

Peel, core and cut the pears into 1/2 inch cubes.

Peel and cut the shallots into quarters, taking advantage of the natural split between the cloves, if present.

In a non-corrodible saucepan, melt the butter. Add the shallot quarters and enough water to come half way up the shallots. Add the 1 teaspoon of sugar.

Bring the water to a boil over medium heat. Continue to boil until the water is nearly gone, stirring occasionally.

When the water is gone, the shallots will begin to caramelize. Allow them to just turn a light caramel color, stirring constantly.

Meanwhile, combine the sugars, vinegar, salt mustard seeds, red pepper flakes, onion, and garlic.

When the shallots are a light caramel color, add the sugar mixture to the saucepan and bring to a boil.

Add the raisins, ginger and pear pieces. Return to a boil and cook, uncovered for 10 minutes. Do not allow the pears to cook into a mush.

Cool and refrigerate.

The chutney can be prepared several days in advance and benefits from a couple of days in the refrigerator to meld its flavors.

This chutney goes well with chicken and mild game and will keep refrigerated for about two months.

To prepare the sweet potatoes and eggs:

Peel and slice the sweet potatoes crosswise into 3/4 inch thick slices. Trim the skins off the potato slices to form 2” diameter round pieces, or – for a more refined presentation – use a 2” metal ring mold to cut circles from the center of each potato slice.

Place the sweet potato slices in a single layer in a sauté pan. Do not crowd the slices; there should be at least 1/2 inch space between slices in the pan.

Add enough water to the pan to come 1/2 way up the sweet potato slices. Add the sugar, duck fat and butter to the pan. Add a couple pinches of salt.

Cover the pan and bring to a boil. Cook for about 5 minutes, or until potato slices are beginning to get tender.

When the sweet potatoes have started to become tender, remove the cover, turn the slices over and allow the cooking water to evaporate. When the water has evaporated, the slices will begin to sauté in the remaining butter, duck fat and sugar. Allow the bottom of the potato slices to brown to a medium-golden color.

Once the bottoms of the potato slices have browned turn the slices over and brown the other side, adding butter and duck fat if needed.

Remove the potato slices and set aside.

If using the quail eggs:

Prepare a second, deep sauté pan for poaching the eggs by filling it 3/4 full of water and bringing the water to a full simmer. Reduce heat to a very light simmer and add the white wine vinegar.

Carefully crack and place the contents of each egg into the poaching water. Gently drag a slotted spoon over the top of the poaching eggs to keep each egg mass separate from the other eggs and off the bottom of the pan.

Poach the eggs until the whites are barely solid, leaving the yolks liquid, about two and a half minutes

Remove the eggs to a bowl of ice water with a slotted spoon. The poached eggs may be kept in the ice water, refrigerated for up to one day.

To assemble the portions:

Warm the chutney, sweet potato slices and confit separately, covered, in a slow oven.

Heat the duck stock in a saucepan.

(If using the quail eggs, bring a saucepan of water to a gentle simmer to warm the poached eggs. Place the eggs gently in the simmering water for no longer than 30 seconds to warm them through.)

Place a sweet potato slice in the center of each of six plates.

Spread 1 teaspoon of Dijon mustard on each potato slice.

Mound two ounces of confit on each potato slice.

Top the confit with a poached quail egg.

Nape 1 tablespoon of warmed duck stock over each egg.

Surround the potato/confit/egg stack with portions of the chutney.

Grind pepper lightly over the entire dish and sprinkle lightly to taste with salt.

Serve warm.

Butternut Squash Risotto with Duck Confit and Cheddar Cheese

In the past few years, bistros in New York have made a game out of originally flavored risottos. This recipe is an adaptation of one I had in a small portion as an appetizer. It was so good, I’ve enlarged the portion to serve as a small entrée.

Serves 4

1/2 tablespoon olive oil

3 fresh 2 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut in 1” dice

1 medium white onion, cut in large dice

1/2 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

1/2 cup Riesling wine

2 cups shredded duck confit meat

3 1/2 cups chicken stock

2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

3/4 cup Arborio rice

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup freshly grated Cheddar cheese

To prepare the squash:

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the butternut squash, half of the onion, 1 teaspoon salt, nutmeg, and 1 teaspoon white pepper. Cook, stirring frequently until the squash is tender (about 7 to 10 minutes).

Stir in the wine and cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Remove the squash from the heat and allow it to cool.

When cool, place the squash in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process the squash until it forms a smooth puree.

To prepare the rice:

Bring the stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Lower the heat until the stock is just below a boil. Keep the stock hot.

In a second, heavy-bottomed, saucepan, melt 1 1/4 tablespoons of the butter over medium heat.

Stir the rice and the other half of the onion into the melted butter. Keep stirring the rice over medium heat until the onions are translucent. If the butter begins to brown, before the onions are cooked, turn down the heat slightly.

When the onions are translucent, turn the heat up slightly and allow the butter to just begin to brown.

When the butter begins to brown, add enough hot stock to cover the rice. Turn the heat down and simmer the stock gently, stirring constantly until the stock is almost absorbed. As the stock is absorbed add 1/2 cup of additional stock. As this cup is absorbed, add another 1/2 cup.

After 10 minutes of cooking, stir in the squash and cook for an additional 10 minutes, adding stock as before. By this time, all of the stock should have been used and the rice should be creamy and sticking together.

To finish the risotto, add the rest of the butter, parsley and salt and pepper to taste.

Continue to stir and cook the risotto until the butter is completely absorbed.

To Serve:

Heat the confit, covered in a warm oven.

Place equal portions of the risotto on each of four warmed soup plates.

Mound 1/4 cup confit on each risotto serving.

Sprinkle the cheese over the top of each portion and serve immediately.

Duck Confit-Mushroom Crêpe with Asparagus, Tomato Confit and a Poached Duck Egg

Crêpes are as versatile as they are beautiful. Here, they are wrapped around a duck confit filling and placed over fresh asparagus dressed in sweet and sour vinaigrette.

You can omit the egg and turn this dish into an excellent appetizer, or double the crêpe and filling recipes and serve a substantial entrée.

Serves 6

For the filling:

1 tablespoon chopped shallot

1 tablespoon butter

1 pound wild mushrooms, cleaned and chopped

1/2 cup dry red wine (pinot noir or zinfandel)

2 cups shredded duck confit meat

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the eggs:

6 duck eggs

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the crêpes:

1 cup flour

⅔ cup cold milk

⅔ cup cold water

3 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 tablespoons melted clarified butter

2 tablespoons very finely chopped chives

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Additional clarified butter for cooking the crêpes

You’ll also need:

8 inch crêpe pan

For the asparagus:

1 pound fresh asparagus, cleaned and peeled, cut to even lengths

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

2 tablespoons butter or duck fat

Vinaigrette dressing:

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

1/2 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1/2 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly cracked black pepper

For the confit:

6 tablespoons chopped tomato confit

3 large basil leaves

6 sprigs watercress (optional, for garnish)

To prepare the filling:

In a sauté pan over medium heat, sauté the shallots in the butter until they are translucent.

Add the mushrooms and sauté until nearly all of their moisture evaporates.

Add the wine and duck confit and sauté until most of the wine has evaporated.

Remove the filling from the heat.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

The filling can be made up to one day in advance. Keep it covered and refrigerated and re-heat it before using it.

To prepare the eggs:

In a medium saucepan, bring 1 quart of water to the boil.

Pierce a very small hole in the shell of each duck egg at the large end, using a pushpin.

Gently place the eggs in the boiling water for no more than ten seconds. Remove the eggs and set aside to cool. This will solidify a small layer of egg white within the shell and help keep the eggs together when they are poached.

Meanwhile, bring 3 inches of water to boil in a large sauté pan. Reduce heat to a slow simmer (with only a few bubbles breaking the surface each second. You should be able to see the bottom of the pan clearly through the water). Add the vinegar to the simmering water.

Crack an egg on a flat surface, then lower it toward the surface of the simmering water and open the egg so that it slides gently from the shell into the water. Repeat this process quickly for each egg. (The eggs should stay relatively separate and will sink to the bottom of the pan.)

Drag the bowl of a slotted spoon over the surface of the water and eggs, bringing them up from the bottom of the pan and gently moving the whites only to keep them with their yolk.

Poach the eggs for 3 1/2 to 4 minutes, until the whites are solid, but the yolks are still runny.

Remove the poached eggs from the simmering water with a slotted spoon and place them immediately in a bowl of ice water. (This will wash off the vinegar and stop the cooking process.)

Once the eggs have cooled, trim any stray whites and discard the trimmings.

You can store the eggs in the ice water, refrigerated, for up to 24 hours.

Reheat them in hot water before using.

To prepare the crêpes:

Combine all of the crêpe ingredients, except the chives and sesame seeds in a blender or food processor.

Process them until they are very smooth.

Stir in the chives and sesame seeds.

Cover the batter and refrigerate it for at least 30 minutes and up to one day.

To cook the crêpes:

Heat the crêpe pan over medium heat and brush it with a coating of clarified butter.

Ladle about 3 tablespoons of the batter onto the pan about half way from the center to the edge.

Swirl the pan around to evenly coat the bottom with a very thin layer of batter. Pour any extra batter back into the uncooked batter.

Return the pan to the heat and allow the crêpe to cook until the bottom surface is just barely browned. (It will have a lacy pattern of brown and will be set firm.)

Turn the crêpe over and cook until the second side is also set.

Remove the crêpe and allow it to cool on a wire rack.

Repeat the cooking process until all of the batter is used.

Once the crêpes have cooled, you can wrap and either refrigerate or freeze them until you are ready to use them. They refrigerate well for up to two days and freeze for a month or more.

Re-heat them before using.

To prepare the asparagus:

Fill a large bowl with ice water.

Bring a large pot of water to boil.

Put the asparagus in the boiling water. Boil them for 6 to 8 minutes or until cooked but still crunchy.

Immediately shock the vegetables in the ice water.

Just before service, heat the duck fat or butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat.

Sauté the shallots until they are translucent.

Add the asparagus and sauté until they are warmed through.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Shake all of the dressing ingredients together in a small jar.

Dress the vegetables lightly and toss.

To prepare the tomato confit:

Warm the confit in a small saucepan.

To prepare the garnish:

Immediately before service, stack the basil leaves on a cutting board and roll them up like a cigar.

Cut through the roll, making long narrow strips of basil leaves (chiffonade).

To assemble the crêpes:

Place approximately ⅔ cup of warm filling on each of six crêpes.

Spread the filling across the center and roll the crêpes.

Keep warm until service.

To serve:

Place 3 or 4 warm asparagus spears in the center of each of six warmed serving plates.

Place a dollop of the tomato confit alongside the asparagus and dress the tomato confit with a bit of the basil chiffonade.

Place a warmed poached egg on the opposite side of the asparagus.

Lay a stuffed crêpe across diagonally across the top of the asparagus.

Garnish with a sprig of watercress, if desired.

Lobster and Duck Confit Tarts with Tomato Confit, Braised Vegetables and Mushroom Foam

Adaptable as a luncheon entrée or dinner appetizer, this tart features the extraordinary combination of confit and lobster making for an ultra-rich presentation. The mushroom foam gives the earthy tastes of the vegetables a new sophistication.

Makes 4 tarts

For the leeks:

1 leek, white part only, cut into 1/4 inch slices

2 tablespoons butter

1 cup chicken stock

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the vegetables:

1 teaspoon chopped shallots

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 large parsnip, peeled

1 large carrot, peeled

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon butter

1 cup duck, chicken or veal stock

1/2 cup sliced button mushrooms

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the mushroom foam:

8 ounces (by weight) wild mushroom caps

1 cup half-and-half

1 cup heavy cream

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the assembled tarts:

4 prepared tart shells

2 cooked lobster tails, sliced into 1/4 inch slices

8 ounces shredded duck confit

Prepared braised leeks

Prepared braised vegetables

4 ounces prepared tomato confit

1 cup fresh baby spinach leaves

Prepared mushroom foam

4 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

To assemble the tarts:

Pâte Brisée

Pâte Brisée

1/2 cup cake flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon ice-cold water

1 egg

1 additional egg (for egg wash)

Combine the fours and salt on a clean work surface. Form the flour mixture into a ring, about 10 inches across.

Place the butter and egg into the center of the ring and use your hand to squish the egg and butter together completely.

Using a circular motion, start swirling the flour into the egg/butter mixture. When all of the flour is incorporated into the egg/butter mixture, sprinkle on the water and mix it in.

Form the dough into a ball.

With the heel of your hand, begin pressing the edge of the dough ball against the work surface – smearing a small tongue of dough from the ball. Progressively press the dough against the work surface until you have worked through the entire ball. This should take about 6 “smearings.”

Re-form the dough ball and repeat the smearing process. (This pressing technique is called fraisage in French and is used to guarantee an even mixing of the fat and flour.)

Re-form the dough into a flat disk, wrap it tightly in plastic and place it in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes to thoroughly chill it.

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Lightly flour your work surface.

Roll out the chilled dough to 1/8 inch thickness.

Use the 6 inch cookie cutter to cut four rounds of dough.

Place the tart rings on a baking sheet and line them with the pastry rounds, pressing the dough carefully into the corners. Carefully remove the overhanging dough with a sharp knife. Gently prick several holes in the bottom of the formed tart shells with a fork.

Press a round of parchment paper into each shell and fill the paper with dried beans.

Bake the shells in the oven until they are brown on the edges, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, beat the additional egg with one teaspoon of water to make an egg wash.

Remove the shells from the oven. Remove the paper and beans. Brush the shells with the egg wash.

Return the shells to the oven for about 5 minutes, or until the egg wash browns slightly.

Remove the shells from the oven and remove them from the baking sheet to a cooling rack, leaving the tart rings on them until they are cooled.

Once cooled, remove the shells from the rings and store them in an airtight container for up to one day.

To prepare the leeks:

Sauté the leeks in the butter over medium-low heat. Cook them until they are translucent, but do not allow them to brown.

Add the stock and return the mixture to a simmer. Cook over medium low heat for about 30 minutes – until the leeks are soft and the chicken stock is nearly all absorbed. Do not allow the leeks to brown.

Season the leeks with salt and pepper to taste.

The leeks may be refrigerated, covered for up to two days. Rewarm in a slow oven or over low heat.

To prepare the vegetables:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Sauté the shallots in the olive oil over medium heat until translucent.

Cut the parsnip and carrot in half crosswise.

Add the parsnip, carrot, sugar, butter and stock to the shallots and heat until the stock boils. Cover and place in the oven for 15 minutes.

Remove from the oven and continue to cook, uncovered, over medium until there the stock reduces to 2 tablespoons. Add the mushroom slices. Cover and cook an additional 5 minutes until the mushrooms are tender.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

The vegetables may be used immediately or stored in the refrigerator and re-heated for service.

To prepare the mushroom foam:

Place the mushrooms in a saucepan just large enough to hold them. Cover with water. Place a metal strainer on top of the mushrooms to hold them under the surface of the water.

Bring the mushrooms to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat and allow the mushrooms to simmer for 20 minutes, adding water to keep the mushrooms submerged.

Strain the liquid from the mushrooms and place the mushrooms in a blender, along with two tablespoons of the liquid.

Blend the mushrooms into a fine puree.

Heat the half-and-half and cream in a large saucepan to a boil. As soon as the cream boils, remove it from the heat.

Stir the pureed mushroom into the cream and allow them to steep for 10 minutes.

Strain the mushroom sauce through a fine sieve. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Set the mushroom sauce aside to cool. (The sauce will be foamed at service time, either using an immersion blender or pressurized cream whipping canister.)

Foaming the sauce:

You can use one of two methods to foam the mushroom sauce: immersion blending or (preferably) foaming the sauce in a pressurized whipping cream canister.

For immersion blending, foam the sauce just before service. Place the sauce in a tall, narrow container. Using an immersion blender at high speed, gently move the blender head up and down in the sauce, occasionally breaking the surface of the liquid. The sauce will form a loose foam in about one minute.

For canister foaming, select a 24 ounce cream whipping canister (the type that uses CO² cartridges to pressurize the canister and whip the cream). Chill the canister. Pour in the sauce. Place the lid on the canister and charge the container with one cartridge. Test the consistency of the sauce by squirting a small amount. If it is not foamy enough, add another cartridge charge.

Keep the canister in the refrigerator for up to two days.

To assemble the tarts:

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Place the tart shells on a baking sheet.

Distribute the remaining ingredients, except the mushroom foam and parsley within the shells.

Place the filled shells in the oven for 5 to 8 minutes to heat through.

Place the tarts on serving plates, apply a small amount of mushroom foam to each tart and garnish the plates with the parsley.

Serve immediately.

All of the components of the tart can be prepared in advance and assembled immediately prior to service.

This recipe gives instructions for four individual-sized tarts. It can also be made in one large tart, but the loose nature of the filling makes clean slices difficult to accomplish – the taste, thankfully, will be the same.

The tart shell used here is a classic Pâte Brisée. It is appropriate for any savory tart or quiche, either as small tartlets or one large tart shell. The combination of cake and all-purpose flours closely approximates the French flour used in traditional Pâte Brisée.

Although I believe that anything made from scratch is better than packaged foods, you can substitute a store-bought pie crust for the pastry here. The results will be similar.

Trout Confit Stuffed with Walnuts and Mushrooms

Trout has such a delicate flavor. In order to appreciate its subtlety, only a few ingredients are used here – any more and the true character of the fish would be lost.

Serves 4

16 ounces walnut oil

8 trout filets, skin on

1 shallot, finely diced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup finely chopped wild mushrooms

1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian flat leaf parsley

Salt

Pepper

2 cups cooked wild rice

To poach the trout:

Heat the walnut oil in a sauté pan to 150° F.

Place the filets and shallots in the oil. Bring the oil back to 150° F.

Remove the pan from the heat and cover. Allow the filets to poach in the oil for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and walnuts. Sauté until the mushroom liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are cooked and have absorbed the butter. Add the parsley. Salt and pepper to taste.

Lobster and Tomato Confits with Tarragon Crustacean Butter Sauce on Brioche

What can I say…Lobster…in butter…Wow!

Serves 4

Crustacean Butter (recipe on this page)

4 brioche toast rounds from Tin Can Brioche

2 whole, live lobsters 1 1/2 to 2 pounds (female if possible)

Tomato confit, chopped and warmed

12 whole chives

1 tablespoon chopped chives

Crustacean Butter

Makes 1 pound

1 1/2 pounds butter, cut in large pieces

3 pounds cooked lobster shells, broken into large pieces

2 quarts hot water

Place the butter and shells in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater. Start the mixer at a low speed to break the shells and allow the mixture to come together.

Increase the mixer speed to a low medium and allow the butter and shells to mix for 30 minutes. (The butter will turn pink.)

Transfer the butter to a large (at least 3 quart), heavy saucepan and melt it over low heat, stirring to make sure none of the butter browns.

Preheat the oven to 225° F.

Place the saucepan in the oven and allow it to heat for 1 hour. Do not allow the butter to brown or boil. (This will separate the shell fragments from the butter.)

Remove the pan from the oven and add enough hot water to cover the shells by 2 inches.

Place the pan (shells, butter and water) in the refrigerator. Allow it to chill until the butter solidifies on the top. Carefully remove the butter, leaving the water and shells.

Put the butter in a saucepan and melt it very slowly over low heat. Do not allow it to brown or boil.

Strain the melted butter through a double-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or a kitchen towel or through a very fine chinois.

Store the butter in an airtight container, refrigerated for up to a month or freeze for up to six months.

Tin Can Brioche

Makes 6 brioches

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup lukewarm water (about 110° F.)

1 package dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1/2 pound butter, softened and cut in 1/2 inch pieces

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

You’ll also need:

6 (15 ounce) cans

6 (12 inch) squares of aluminum foil

1 baking sheet large enough to hold all six cans upright, with at least 1” between them.

To prepare the cans:

Remove the labels. Remove both the tops and bottoms of the cans. Wash and dry the cans thoroughly. Before using, make sure the cans have not rusted due to the washing process.

Place the cans flat on a work surface and carefully press a piece of aluminum foil into the can to line both the open bottom and sides. (The brioches will be baked on a baking sheet, so the bottoms of the cans do not need to be solid.) The foil lining is necessary to protect the dough from any lacquers of sealants present on the interior of the can.

To prepare the brioche:

In a bowl, combine the sugar, water and yeast. Stir until smooth. Set the yeast mixture aside to rest for 5 minutes to allow the yeast to become active.

Put the flour, eggs, butter and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater.

Turn the mixer on low to combine the ingredients and add the yeast mixture slowly. After all of the ingredients are combined, scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Turn the mixer on medium speed and beat the dough for 5 minutes, scraping down the sides twice during the mixing.

Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover the bowl with a towel and allow the dough to rise in a draft-free warm place until it has doubled in size - 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch down the risen dough. Divide the dough into six pieces.

Roll the pieces into balls.

Place one ball in each of the tin cans. Tap the cans on the counter to make sure no air is trapped at the bottom.

Brush the tops of the dough with egg wash.

Place the cans on a baking sheet, cover them with a towel and allow the dough to rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Bake the brioches in the oven for approximately 30 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.

Remove the brioches from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack until they can be handled.

Pull the brioches out of the cans using the edges of the foil. Remove the foil. Allow them to cool on a wire rack, then store them in an airtight container.

Use the brioches within one or two days; they become stale quickly.

To prepare the lobster:

Bring a very large pot of water to boil.

Kill the lobsters by cutting through the tops if their heads, about 1/2 inch behind and between their eyes with the point of a large knife. Push the knife down until the point reaches the cutting board, then press it forward between the eyes.

Drop the lobsters into the water and boil them for two minutes. Remove them and allow them to cool enough to handle. (This quick boil is important; it separates the meat from the shell, making the meat easier to remove.)

Once cooled, cut the lobsters, shell and all, in half lengthwise, keeping the tail fan whole, if possible.

Open the lobsters and pull out the tail meat. If there is any coral present in the tail section, reserve it for use in the sauce (The coral is dark green when raw and orange when cooked. The one-minute boil is usually not enough time to turn the coral orange. Be careful that you are removing the coral, which will be between the meat and shell, and not the intestinal tract, which will be imbedded in the meat, just under its top surface.)

Twist off the claws. Gently rock the “thumb” back and forth sideways until it comes loose. Carefully pull the thumb shell from the meat.

Crack the claw shell in a couple of places with a heavy knife. Carefully peel the shell off the meat. (If all goes well, you’ll have a solid piece of claw meat with the thumb attached.) Repeat this process for the remaining claws.

At this point, you should have four pieces of lobster tail, four intact claws, some coral and a pile of broken shells. Save the shells for future use. Either poach the meat immediately, or refrigerate it, covered, for up to one day. (You can save the antennae and tail fans for garnish.)

To poach the lobster:

Melt the prepared crustacean butter over low heat in a saucepan just barely large enough to hold the lobster tails and claws in a single layer.

Bring the butter temperature up to 160° F.

Place the lobster tails and claws in the hot butter and bring the temperature back up to 160° F.

Remove the pan from the heat and cover it. Allow the lobster to poach in the oil for 15 minutes. It will be just barely done to the center.

Remove the lobster and place it on a warm plate. Cover it with a hot, wet towel. Reserve the poaching butter for use in the sauce.

Tarragon Crustacean Butter Sauce

Makes about 1 1/2 cups

3 egg yolks

Pinch of salt

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons cold butter, cut in chunks

1 cup crustacean butter, hot

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

Salt

Pepper

Lobster coral (if reserved)

Put the egg yolks in the bowl of a food processor outfitted with the metal blade. Pulse to break up the yolks and until they turn a light lemon color. Add the salt, lemon juice and cold butter and process until the mixture is smooth.

With the processor running, very slowly add the hot crustacean butter, starting with drops only at first until the sauce turns whiter and starts to thicken. The last half of the butter can be added in a slow steady stream.

Once all of the butter is incorporated, remove the sauce from the processor and stir in the tarragon. (Reserve the remaining butter to drizzle over the finished dish.)

Add salt and pepper to taste.

If using the coral, place it in a fine mesh strainer over a pot of simmering water until it turns orange. Gently stir the coral into the sauce.

Keep the sauce warm in a double-boiler or vacuum bottle until service.

To prepare the tomato confit:

Warm the confit on top of the stove or in the oven.

To prepare the brioche:

Cut 1/2 inch thick slices of the brioche, creating small round pieces.

Toast the slices very lightly, either in the toaster or on a baking sheet in the oven.

To assemble:

Warm 4 serving plates.

Place a toasted brioche slice in the center of each plate. Mound a quarter of the tomato confit on each piece of toast.

Nape the tomato confit with the sauce.

If the lobster tails have curled enough to fit on top of the brioche, then place them whole on top of the sauce. If the lobster tails have remained straight, slice them into medallions and fan the medallions on top of the sauce.

Place a lobster claw upright (so its “fingers” are pointing up) in the center of the lobster tail.

Drizzle remaining sauce and crustacean butter over the lobster and around the plate.

There are really three recipes here. Use any of them separately in other preparations.

Crustacean butter, saved in the freezer, is an excellent impromptu topping for white-fleshed fish or shellfish.

The brioche in its rich buttery elegance is great toasted at breakfast.

Diver Scallops en Croûte with Tomato Confit-Truffle Compote

You must use live diver scallops to get the full effect of this presentation. The perfume of the freshly baked scallop and tomatoes is a heady combination, sure to wow your guests.

Serves 6

For the scallops:

1 recipe Pâte Brisée or pie dough

6 tablespoons chopped tomato confit, drained of any oil

18 drops truffle oil

1 1/2 teaspoons dry white French vermouth

Maldon or Fleur de Sel sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 beaten egg

You’ll also need:

Baking sheet pans lined with rock salt

6 soup plates, bottoms filled with rock salt

6 rosemary sprigs

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Cut the pastry into 1 inch strips. (For a fancy presentation, use a scalloped-edged pastry cutter.)

Scrub the scallop shells to remove any dirt or grit. (The scallops will remain tightly closed.)

Using a flexible, thin bladed knife, wedge the blade between the halves of the shells and scrape the blade from side to side tightly along the inside surface of one of the shells. (This will cut the scallop from the shell.)

Open the scallop and cut the other side of the scallop from the shell.

Pull off the mantle (all of the parts that are not the central white muscle), leaving the roe (the pinkish orange sack), if present, attached to the white muscle. Discard the mantle.

Feel around the white muscle and remove the fibrous connector that attached it to the mantle.

Put the scallop meat with attached roe in a bowl of cold water.

Scrub the shells again, keeping them in their natural pairs. Dry the shells.

Line up the shells in pairs. Place a scallop and roe in the center of each of the bottom shells.

Surround each scallop with one tablespoon of the tomato confit.

Put three drops of truffle oil on each scallop. Put 1/4 teaspoon of vermouth on each scallop. Very lightly salt and pepper each scallop.

Place the top shell on the bottom shell for each pair.

Carefully lift each shell pair and paint the edges of the shells with the beaten egg wash.

Seal each shell pair with a strip of pastry, all the way around.

Brush the pastry with another coat of the egg wash.

(You must not tip or tilt the shells from a horizontal position, or the liquid contents will spill out.)

Place the sealed shells on the rock salt-lined baking sheet.

Bake the scallops for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown.

While the scallops are baking, heat the soup plates lined with rock salt in the oven.

To Serve:

Place a baked scallop in the center of each of the hot soup plates.

Place a rosemary sprig on the hot salt. (The rosemary scent will emerge immediately but will be fleeting.)

Bring the soup plates to the table.

Open the scallops by holding the top down with a fork and using a knife to break the pastry and pry the shells open. The pastry is edible.

Harvested by hand by free swimming divers, diver scallops are the cream of the crop. Because they aren’t dragged across the ocean bottom by nets, their shells are undamaged. Being hand-chosen, only specimens that have reached proper size are selected.

Hearty Main Courses

These days, any bean dish with meat is called “cassoulet.” This is really a misnomer. True cassoulet is not a quick bean and meat casserole, but rather is prepared over several hours - even days.

Crispy Duck Confit with Black Beans

A very streamlined version of cassoulet, this entrée goes from scratch to table in less than 30 minutes – thanks in part to the canned beans.

Serves 4

4 duck confit legs

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, diced

1 15 ounce can black beans, drained

1 teaspoon ground cumin

6 tablespoons chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

Score the skin side of the duck confit legs in a 1/4 inch diamond crosshatch pattern, being careful not to cut through to the meat.

Place the legs in a sauté pan over high heat, skin side down. Sauté the legs until the skin is brown and crispy. Pour off and reserve any fat. Turn the legs over, turn off the heat and cover the pan.

In a second sauté pan, sauté the onion and garlic in 1 tablespoon of the reserved duck fat until the onions are translucent.

Add the can of beans and cumin.

Cook until the beans are heated through.

To serve:

Spoon a portion of beans into each of six soup plates.

Place a duck leg, skin side up, on top of the beans.

Garnish with parsley.

Rabbit Confit with Baby Vegetables and Toasted Polenta Cakes

Rabbit lends itself to hearty dishes. It blends particularly well with winter vegetables, as in the parsnips, carrots and artichokes found here.

Serves 4

For the vegetables:

12 baby parsnips

12 baby carrots

6 artichokes

1 lemon

1/2 cup Jerusalem artichokes cut in 1/4 inch by 2 inch sticks (baton)

16 asparagus tips

2 cups chicken stock

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

1 rosemary stem

1 thyme stem

1 tablespoon tarragon leaves

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

You’ll also need:

A bowl of ice water

For presentation:

4 rabbit confit legs

Polenta cakes

4 plum tomatoes, seeds removed and diced (concasse)

2 tablespoon basil leaves, cut in 1/4 inch ribbons (chiffonade)

2 tablespoon chervil leaves

To prepare the vegetables:

Peel the parsnips and carrots and trim the stems, leaving about 1/2 inch of the stem attached to the root.

Add the juice of 1/2 lemon to a bowl of water.

Trim the stalks off the artichokes, leaving 1 inch of attached. Pull the leaves off the artichoke. Remove the purple center (choke) from each artichoke. Trim the artichokes to make remove the roots of the leaves. Cut the artichokes in quarters, lengthwise and rub each piece with the unused half lemon. Place the cut pieces in the bowl with the lemon juice water until ready to cook.

To cook the vegetables:

Place the stock with the wine, bay leaf, rosemary, thyme and garlic cloves in a large saucepan and bring it to the boil. Add the parsnips and Jerusalem artichokes; reduce the stock to a simmer and cook for 8 minutes.

Add the artichoke hearts and carrots and cook for 5 minutes.

Add the asparagus tips and cook for 1-2 minutes so that they are just tender.

Remove all the vegetables from the stock and refresh them in ice cold water.

Reduce the stock by two thirds.

Strain the stock (removing the garlic, bay leaf, rosemary and thyme).

Return the stock to a saucepan and set aside until ready to serve.

To prepare and cook the rabbit:

Heat a sauté pan over a high heat. Remove the rabbit from the fat and place it in the pan. Reduce the heat to moderately high and cook for around 3 minutes on either side so that it is hot.

Remove the rabbit from the pan and shred the meat from the bone with a fork.

Keep warm until ready to serve.

To Serve:

Bring the stock to a strong simmer and add all the vegetables except the asparagus and cook them for 5 minutes then add the asparagus tips, tarragon and seasoning and cook for 30 seconds to warm them through.

Distribute the vegetables onto four warmed dinner plates. Sprinkle the rabbit confit over the vegetables and place a polenta cake in the center. Sprinkle the tomato, basil and chervil around the plates and serve.

Duck Confit Chiles Rellenos with Roasted Corn and Pepper Salsa

Pulling French confit into the American southwest with traditional Mexican ingredients, this entrée adds a twist to the conventional stuffed peppers. Using cilantro-apricot flavored confit adds and extra element to the taste, but traditional confit will work also.

Serves 4

For the stuffing:

3/4 pound duck cilantro-apricot duck confit or traditional duck confit, finely shredded

1/4 cup finely chopped red onions

1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, cored, seeded and chopped finely

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

4 teaspoons raisins

4 ounces queso blanco or cream cheese, at room temperature, cut in small cubes

4 ounces queso asadero or Monterrey jack cheese, cut in small cubes

Tabasco Sauce

2 tablespoons dried bread crumbs

For the chiles rellenos:

4 medium to large poblano peppers

For the batter:

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup cake flour (optional)

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large egg yolks, beaten

3 large egg whites, beaten until foamy

Vegetable shortening for deep frying

For the salsa:

3 ears corn in the husk

1 small red bell pepper, cored seeded and diced

1 jalapeño pepper, cored seeded and diced finely

1/4 cup oil packed sun dried tomatoes, drained and diced

1 1/2 tablespoons oil from the sun dried tomatoes

1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro

1 teaspoon minced fresh Mexican oregano or marjoram

1/4 small red onion, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

Juice of 1/2 lime

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the garnish:

Sour cream

Fresh cilantro leaves

To prepare the stuffing:

In a mixing bowl, combine the duck confit, onions, garlic, cheeses and bread crumbs. Season with Tabasco to taste and mix well.

To prepare the chiles:

Preheat the broiler.

Place the chiles on a baking sheet and put them in the oven about 6 inches away from the broiler flames or element. Watch them carefully and turn them when they begin to char on the top. Continue turning them until they are charred all the way around. Remove the chiles from the oven and put them in a bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap.

Allow the chiles to rest in the bowl until cool to the touch.

Gently peel the charred skin from each chile. Make a lengthwise slit in each chile and remove the seeds and ribs. Leave the stems on.

Put one quarter of the stuffing in each chile and sew the seam shut with a long wooden skewer.

To prepare the salsa:

Soak the corn in the husks in water for 30 minutes. (You don’t need to remove the corn silk.)

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Place the soaked corn ears directly on the oven rack and roast about 20 minutes, or until the outer husks are brown. Remove the corn from the oven and allow to cool enough to handle.

Remove the husks. Slice the corn kernels from the cob.

Mix the corn with the remaining ingredients in a large sauté pan.

Sauté over medium-high heat until the edges of the peppers and onions brown, being careful not to burn any of the ingredients.

The salsa can be refrigerated overnight. Re-warm before using.

To prepare plates for service:

Place one quarter of the warm salsa on each of four warmed serving plates and spread it out.

To fry the chiles:

Make sure the salsa is ready before starting to fry the chiles. They must be served immediately after frying.

Preheat fryer or vegetable oil in a large heavy saucepan to 375° F.

Combine the flour(s), salt and pepper in a shallow dish.

Gently fold the egg yolks into the egg whites.

Dredge each stuffed pepper in the flour mixture and shake off the excess.

Using a slotted spoon, gently dip the dredged chiles in the egg mixture, coating them completely. Work with only one or two chiles at a time.

Fry the egg-coated chiles in the oil until they are golden-brown, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Gently remove them from the oil and place them on paper towels to drain.

When they have cooled enough to touch, very carefully remove the skewer.

Stuffed Duck Breasts with Pineapple, Cherries and Green Peppercorns

Duck has been paired with fruits for centuries. Here, breasts are filled with confit and given extra flavor and texture by cherries and peppercorns.

Serves 6

6 duck breasts

6 tablespoons deboned, defatted and chopped duck confit

1 1/2 tablespoon minced shallot

2 dozen Bing cherries, stemmed, pitted and halved

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 ounces white wine

3 ounces port wine

1 cup duck stock

3 ounces heavy cream

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

5 ounces diced pineapple

1 tablespoon green peppercorns

6 grilled polenta cakes

To prepare the duck breasts:

Score the skin on each breast in a 1/4 inch diamond crosshatch pattern (cut through the skin and into the fat, but not the meat).

Make an incision through the middle of each breast from end to end and parallel to the skin using a thin-bladed knife. From the opposite end of the breast, make a similar incision, but perpendicular to the skin. (This will create a hollow into which the confit filling will be stuffed.)

To make the filling:

Combine the confit and 24 cherry halves.

Sauté 1/2 tablespoon of the shallots in 1 teaspoon of oil in a small pan until they are translucent. Add the shallots to the confit mixture.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Stuff each duck breast with two tablespoons of the filling.

To cook the duck breasts:

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Place the duck breasts, skin side down in the pan.

Sauté the breasts on the skin side until the skin is golden brown.

Turn the breasts over and brown the other side.

Remove the breasts to an oven-proof pan and bake them in the oven for 10 minutes, or until they are heated through but still medium rare. Turn of the oven, but keep the breasts in it to keep them warm.

To prepare the sauce:

Pour all but 1 tablespoon of fat from the duck sauté pan.

Add the remaining shallots and sauté them until translucent.

Combine the white and port wines. Deglaze the pan with the combined wines, scraping any solidified pan juices to dissolve them.

Add the stock, cream and mustard and any juices that have accumulated in the duck baking pan. Stir to combine.

Strain the sauce into a clean pan.

Add the pineapple and remaining cherry halves and green peppercorns. Heat the sauce through over medium heat.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble the plates:

Place a warm polenta cake on each of six warm serving plates.

Surround each cake with a portion of the sauce. Slice each duck breast crosswise into six pieces (to expose the stuffing).

Fan the duck breast slices over the polenta cake.

Magret and Sweetbreads over Duck Confit-Stuffed Brioche with Reduced Duck Stock and Pan Glazed Asparagus Tips

Well worth the time involved, this presentation pairs the subtle flavor of sweetbreads and brioche with robust duck breast and confit. You’ll need to start a day early; preparing the brioche and sweetbreads.

Serves 4

For the brioche:

1 cup duck confit meat

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1/2 teaspoon chopped tarragon leaves

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 cup lukewarm water (about 110° F.)

1 package dry yeast (2 1/4 teaspoons)

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

4 large eggs

1/2 pound unsalted butter, softened and cut in 1/2 inch pieces

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg, beaten (for egg wash)

For the asparagus:

40 medium green asparagus spears, trimmed to about 5 inches and peeled

1 tablespoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter (divided)

1 tablespoon minced shallot (optional)

4 fresh morel mushrooms, halved lengthwise (optional)

Tips only from 4 additional medium asparagus spears, coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon thyme leaves

Freshly ground black pepper

For the magret:

1 (1 pound) whole magret duck breast

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the sweetbreads:

1 pair veal sweetbreads

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1/4 cup flour

1 teaspoons salt (divided)

1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper (divided)

1 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the sauce:

1/2 cup pinot noir wine

1/2 cup reduced duck stock

1 tablespoon cold butter

You’ll also need:

A bowl of ice water

A small terrine mold or other small dish, just large enough to hold the sweetbreads and lined with plastic wrap.

A piece of cardboard wrapped with plastic wrap, then aluminum foil that is just large enough to fit inside the top of the mold.

To prepare the brioche:

Combine the confit, thyme and tarragon and season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a bowl, combine the sugar, water and yeast. Stir until smooth. Set the yeast mixture aside to rest for 5 minutes to allow the yeast to become active.

Put the flour, eggs, butter and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater. Turn the mixer on low to combine the ingredients and add the yeast mixture slowly. After all of the ingredients are combined, scrape down the sides of the bowl.

Turn the mixer on medium speed and beat the dough for 5 minutes, scraping down the sides twice during the mixing.

Transfer the dough to a clean bowl, cover the bowl with a towel and allow the dough to rise in a draft-free warm place until it has doubled in size - 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Punch down the risen dough.

Divide the dough into eight pieces. Place one piece in the bottom of a muffin tin cup.

Form four balls out of the confit mixture. Press one ball into a piece of brioche dough in the muffin tin.

Press the remaining four pieces of dough on top of the pieces already in the muffin tin, sealing the confit ball inside.

Brush the tops of the dough with egg wash.

Place the muffin tin on a baking sheet, cover it with a towel and allow the brioche to rise in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 400° F.

Bake the brioches in the oven for approximately 30 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.

Remove the brioches from the oven and allow to cool on a wire rack until they can be handled.

Remove the brioches from the muffin tin. Allow them to cool on a wire rack, and then store them in an airtight container.

Use the brioches within one day; they become stale quickly.

To prepare the sweetbreads:

Wash the sweetbreads under cold, running water, removing all packaging fat and any visible blood.

Heat a large saucepan of water to boiling. Add the salt and vinegar.

Add the sweetbreads to the boiling water and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Poach the sweetbreads for 10 minutes.

Remove the sweetbreads from the saucepan and immediately place them in the bowl of ice water. Once the sweetbreads are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the outer membrane.

Pack the peeled sweetbreads into the lined terrine mold, folding overlapping plastic wrap over the top of the sweetbreads to seal them completely.

Place the wrapped cardboard on top of the sweetbreads and weigh it down with a couple of cans of food.

Refrigerate the sweetbreads until they are completely chilled through – at least two hours and up to overnight.

To cook the sweetbreads:

Combine the flour with half of the salt and half of the pepper in a small bowl or plate.

Remove the sweetbreads from the terrine and dredge them individually in the seasoned flour.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat and add the olive oil.

Sauté the sweetbreads in the olive oil until the bottom is golden brown.

Turn the sweetbreads over and cook for an additional minute. Add the butter to the ban and swirl the pan to distribute it.

Cook the sweetbreads for an additional minute, and then remove them to a paper towel. Keep them warm until service.

To prepare the asparagus:

Bring a large pot of water to the boil, add the salt.

Drop the asparagus spears into the boiling water and cook until they are just softened, about 4 minutes. Remove the asparagus and pat it dry.

Melt the butter in each of two large sauté pans over medium heat. When the butter is foamy but not browned, add the asparagus spears in a single layer.

Sauté the asparagus, turning frequently, until it is just beginning to brown.

Remove the asparagus from the pan and keep it warm.

If using the mushrooms, add the shallots to the pan and sauté them until they are translucent.

Add the mushrooms and cook them until just warmed through.

To prepare the magret:

Heat a medium sauté pan over medium heat.

Score the skin side of the magret in a 1/4 inch diamond pattern, cutting as deeply as possible without cutting into the meat.

Place the magret, skin side down in the sauté pan. Sear the magret until the fat under the skin has melted and the skin is a crisp dark brown.

Turn the magret over and sear the other side for about three minutes, or until no pink shows at the edge of the meat.

Remove the magret from the pan and allow it to rest in a shallow dish for at least 15 minutes. (Save the collected juices.)

To prepare the sauce:

Place the wine in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring it to a simmer and reduce it by half.

Add the duck stock and any accumulated juices from the magret. Bring the sauce back to a simmer and reduce it again by half.

Immediately before service, swirl in the cold butter. (This will both thicken and flavor the sauce.)

To Serve:

Warm the brioches in a 250° F. oven for about 15 minutes.

Slice the top and bottom off each of the brioches, creating a disk about one inch thick and exposing the confit stuffing.

Place one brioche round on each of four warmed dinner plates.

Slice the rested magret on the bias and fan an equal portion around each brioche.

Cut the sweetbreads into four equal pieces. Lay a sweetbread piece atop each brioche.

Place an equal mound of the cooked asparagus on each place. Set the mushrooms aside the asparagus. Sprinkle the chopped raw asparagus, thyme and pepper over the cooked asparagus.

Dribble the sauce on and around the magret, sweetbreads and asparagus.

Serve immediately.

Duck Breasts with Cherry-Orange Duck Confit, Tagarashi Yams, Wilted Spinach and Cherry Glaze

Sweet cherries and spicy Tagarashi play off each other, perfectly complimenting rich duck breast and flavored confit in this dish.

Serves 4

For the cherry glaze:

1/2 pound fresh cherries, pitted

4 ounces port wine

juice of 1/2 orange

zest of 1/2 orange

1 cup simple syrup

1 cup chicken stock

For the yams:

1 large (1 pound) Cuban yam, peeled and cubed in 1 inch pieces

2 tablespoons butter

4 tablespoons heavy cream

1 scant teaspoon Tagarashi

1/2 teaspoon salt

freshly ground black pepper

For the duck breasts:

4 duck breasts

salt

freshly ground pepper

vegetable oil

For the spinach:

4 tablespoons butter

4 ounces fresh spinach, cleaned

To Serve:

1 cup shredded cherry-orange duck confit or traditional duck confit, heated

To prepare the cherry glaze:

Combine the cherries and port in a sauce pan. Bring to a boil and cook until the sauce is reduced by half. Add the orange juice, zest, syrup and stock to the saucepan. Reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a wooden spoon. Keep warm until service.

To prepare the yams:

Bring a saucepan of salted water to a simmer. Add the yam pieces and simmer until the yam is tender. Drain the yam and place it and the butter, cream, and Tagarashi in a the bowl of an electric mixer and beat until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm until service.

To prepare the breasts:

Heat a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Score the skin of the breasts in a 1/2 inch diamond pattern, being careful not to slice through to the meat. Season the breasts with salt and pepper.

Place the breasts, skin side down in the sauté pan and sauté for 3 minutes. Turn the breasts and continue cooking until they are medium-rare, about another three minutes.

To prepare the spinach:

Heat the butter in a very large sauté pan until it just begins to brown. Add the spinach and toss until it wilts. Remove the spinach from the pan and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm until service.

To serve:

Mound 1/4 of the yams in the center of each of four warmed serving plates. Slice the duck breast against the grain and on the bias in 1/4 inch thick slices. Fan the slices on top of the yams.

Place a portion of the spinach around the yams.

Ladle the cherry glaze on and around the duck breast slices and serve.

Yams and sweet potatoes are often confused, partially due to the potatoes having been mislabeled on cans for over fifty years. My grandmother always called sweet potatoes “yams.”

In more correct terms, yams are tubers, colored and shaped somewhat like sweet potatoes, but with a different, more earthy taste.

If you can’t find true yams, however, sweet potatoes are close enough to use in this recipe.

Duck Confit with Spinach and Sweet Corn Colcannon

Blending Gascony with the Emerald Isle and throwing in some American ingenuity, this filling entrée is sure to please.

You can peel the potatoes if you like, but unpeeled, they lend a rustic quality to the dish.

I’ve included a garnish of fried leeks, which you may omit.

Serves 4

4 duck confit legs

1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes, washed and cut in 1 inch pieces

1 tablespoon salt

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed

1/2 cup heavy cream, heated

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/2 cups sweet corn kernels (preferably scraped fresh from the cob)

10 ounces fresh spinach, cleaned, drained and stemmed

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, julienned (optional)

Vegetable oil for frying (optional)

To prepare the confit:

Score the skin side of the duck confit legs in a 1/4 inch diamond crosshatch pattern, being careful not to cut through to the meat.

Place the legs in a sauté pan over high heat, skin side down.

Sauté the legs until the skin is brown and crispy.

Pour off any fat.

Turn the legs over, turn off the heat and cover the pan.

Keep the confit warm.

To prepare the colcannon:

Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with water. Add the salt to the water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer.

Cook the potatoes until fork tender, about 12 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the heat and drain. Return the potatoes back to the pan. Return the pan back to the stove, over medium heat, and stir the potatoes for about 1 minute to dry excess water from the potatoes.

Add the butter and cream to the potatoes.

Season with salt and pepper.

Mash the potatoes until slightly smooth.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan.

Sauté the corn for 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the spinach and garlic and continue to sauté for 1 minute. Season the mixture with salt and pepper.

Fold the spinach/corn mixture into the mashed potatoes and keep warm.

To prepare the leek garnish:

Place the leek julienne in a deep saucepan filled half way with cold vegetable oil. (The saucepan should be large enough to hold the leeks in a layer no more than 1/2 inch thick.)

Put the saucepan on the stove over medium high heat and allow the oil to come to frying temperature.

Watch the leeks carefully. When they just begin to brown, remove them from the oil to paper towels. They crisp as they cool.

To serve:

Place a dollop of the colcannon on each of four heated serving plates.

Lay a confit leg on the colcannon.

Garnish with a pile of the fried leeks.

Though Irish colcannon is traditionally made with either cabbage or kale, the slightly sweeter taste of spinach and corn bring out the succulence of the confit.

Confit of Goose á La Béarnaise

You can find this classic dish anywhere in the southwest of France. If you add truffle slices to the cooked potatoes, the dish becomes Confit de Oie á La Sarladaise.

Serves 4

4 goose confit legs, with their fat

8 fingerling or other small, firm potato

4 cloves garlic, peeled

1/4 cup flat leaf Italian flat leaf parsley leaves

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 Perigord truffle (optional)

Heat the goose legs in their fat over medium heat until hot.

Peel and slice the potatoes into 1/8 inch slices.

Dip about 2 tablespoons of the fat into a warmed sauté pan. Sauté the potatoes until they are golden brown.

Chop the garlic and parsley together to make a rough paste (persillade). Add them to the potatoes and stir to evenly distribute the mixture within the potatoes.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Daub any excess oil from the goose legs and place them on warmed serving plates. Serve the potatoes around the legs.

If desired, finely shave the truffle over the top of the potatoes.

Confit of Goose á La Landaise

Peas and ham, combined with whole goose confit legs make for a filling, one plate supper. In France, they use Bayonne ham, but any country style ham will do.
Landes is in the extreme south west of France, nearly in the Basque region and represents the western boundary of “confit country.”

Serves 4

6 small onions, peeled and diced

1/2 cup diced country ham

1 tablespoon goose fat

4 cups freshly shelled English peas

1 tablespoon flour

1/2 teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground black pepper

Bouquet garni containing:

1 bay leaf

1 sprig rosemary

1 sprig thyme

1 tablespoon chervil leaves

4 goose confit legs

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Place the onions, ham and goose fat in a flameproof casserole. Sauté them until the onions are tender. Add the peas. Stir in the flour and sugar. Add pepper to taste.

Add the bouquet garni and place the casserole, covered in the oven. Bake for 30 minutes.

Add the goose and return the casserole to the oven, baking long enough to heat the goose through and tenderize the peas. (About 15 to 20 more minutes.)

Serve in large bowls with the accumulated liquid.

Pork Confit ‘con Frutas’

In Venezuela, pork is often stewed with a variety of fruits and served over rice. Here the fruits are apricots and raisins, augmented with almonds and orange.

Serves 6

For the casserole:

3 strips bacon, cut in large pieces

1 teaspoon butter

1 teaspoon olive oil

6 (1 1/2 inch thick) pork confit slices (plain or from the Pork Confit Cured in Plum Wine and Darjeeling Tea

1 cup dried apricots

3/4 cup golden raisins

1/2 cup slivered almonds

3 cups fresh orange juice

zest of one orange

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger root

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

For service:

3 cups cooked rice

1 medium avocado, sliced

Preheat oven to 350º F.

Place the bacon, butter and olive oil in a large casserole and fry the bacon over medium heat until it renders its fat.

Add the remaining ingredients to the casserole. Cover and bake for 30 minutes, or until heated through.

Serve over the rice, with avocado slices on top.

Celeriac, or celery root, is not related to the standard supermarket celery, although it does have a subtle celery-like flavor. Do not substitute regular celery in this recipe. If you can’t find celeriac, mashed potatoes would be a better replacement.

Braised Pork Tenderloin with Pork Confit, Ramps, Garlic Rosemary Sauce and Celeriac Puree

You can’t go wrong when pairing pork with garlic and rosemary, they’re natural friends. Adding the ramps puts the final touches on this classic combination.

Serves 6

For the Garlic Rosemary Sauce:

1 head garlic

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 cups dark chicken stock

1/4 cup veal stock

1/4 cup sherry

3 sprigs fresh rosemary

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon caraway seeds

Pinch smoked paprika

1/4 cup whole roasted garlic cloves

1 teaspoon very finely minced fresh rosemary leaves

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the celeriac puree:

2 pounds celeriac, peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces

3 cups water

3 cups milk

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1/4 cup grated Pamegiano-Reggiano cheese

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons minced Italian flat leaf parsley

For the ramps:

3 cups brown chicken stock or chicken broth

9 ramps with their greens

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

For the pork tenderloins:

2 trimmed pork tenderloins

Salt

2 tablespoons caraway seeds, crushed

2 tablespoons freshly cracked black pepper

For presentation:

3 cups shredded pork confit meat, heated

6 sprigs fresh rosemary

To prepare the sauce:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Slice the top off the head of garlic, exposing the tops of the interior cloves. Smear the exposed cloves with the olive oil.

Wrap the head in aluminum foil and bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the cloves are tender.

Remove the garlic from the foil and allow it to cool.

Carefully peel the cloves and mash them into a puree.

In a saucepan, combine the chicken stock, veal stock, sherry, rosemary sprigs and smoked paprika over medium heat and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half.

Remove the bay leaf and rosemary sprigs, add the roasted garlic puree and minced rosemary.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Sauce may be made up to two days in advance. Refrigerate, covered and reheat before service.

To prepare the celeriac puree:

Combine the celeriac, milk, water and salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Boil until the celeriac is tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Drain celeriac and pass it through a potato ricer or food mill or mash by hand until the celeriac is the consistency of mashed potatoes. Stir in the butter, cheese, and parsley.

Season with salt and pepper.

Keep the puree warm until service time.

To prepare the ramps:

Bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the ramps and boil for 4 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium high heat.

When the ramps are tender, remove them from the stock and reserve the stock for the tenderloin braise. Slice each ramp in half lengthwise.

Place them, cut side down in the sauté pan and cook until the cut edges just brown. Remove from the butter and place on paper towels to drain.

Keep warm for service.

To prepare the tenderloins:

Preheat the oven to 275° F.

Combine the caraway seeds and pepper on a plate.

Season pork tenderloins salt and roll in pepper and caraway seeds.

Sear the tenderloins in a hot sauté pan (or cast iron skillet) on all sides until lightly brown. Add the chicken stock used to boil the ramps to the sauté pan.

Put the sauté pan, covered, in the oven to braise the tenderloins for about 30 minutes or until the pork is done to your preference.

Remove the tenderloins from the oven and allow them to rest about for 15 minutes.

Cut the tenderloins into 1/2 inch thick medallions.

Pork Confit with Fresh Raspberry Sauce

The vivid maroon sauce makes a striking contrast to the pale pork in this presentation.

Serves 4

1 pound pork confit, sliced thinly

1/2 cup water

1/3 cup sugar

1/4 cup raspberry vinegar

3/4 cup fresh whole mint leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

1 tablespoon arrowroot

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Warm the confit, covered in the oven.

In a saucepan over medium high heat, combine the water, sugar and vinegar and bring to a boil.

Add the mint leaves and chives.

Cover and simmer for 10 minutes then strain.

Return the liquid to the saucepan.

Combine the arrowroot and juice and add to the liquid.

Cook over medium heat until mixture is thickened, stirring constantly.

Remove from the heat and fold in the berries.

Serve sauce over heated confit slices.

Venison Medallions with Red Onion Confit and Port Wine Sauce

The robust flavor of venison, combined with port wine and red onions adds up to a game dish any hunter would savor.

Serves 4

For the venison:

1 venison tenderloin (about 1 1/2 pounds)

Clarified butter

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons dry French vermouth

For the sauce:

3 tablespoons port wine

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 1/2 cups veal stock

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For presentation:

1 cup red onion confit, warm (use the recipe with the juniper berries)

To prepare the sauce:

In a medium sauté pan over medium heat, cook the wine, shallots and brown sugar until the sugar is completely dissolved.

Add the stock and stir to combine. Bring the sauce back to a simmer and reduce until the sauce coats the back of a wooden spoon.

Set the prepared sauce aside.

To prepare the venison:

Cut the venison into 1/2 inch medallions.

Heat the butter in a sauté pan over medium-high heat.

Season the medallions lightly with salt and pepper. Sauté the medallions in the butter until well browned on both sides. Keep the meat medium-rare to medium. (About 3 minutes on each side.)

Set the medallions aside to rest. Pour any fat out of the sauté pan. Add the vermouth to the pan and deglaze. Add the prepared sauce to the pan as well as any juices that have accumulated around the resting medallions. Heat the sauce through and reduce, if necessary, until the sauce coats the back of a wooden spoon.

To serve:

Place 3 or 4 medallions on each of four warmed serving plates. Mound 1/4 cup of warmed red onion confit in the center. Pour the sauce around and slightly over the medallions.

Salmon Confit with New Potatoes, Spinach and Saffron Cream Sauce

Rich salmon atop two of its favorite accompaniments, potatoes and spinach is accented with exotic saffron in this elegant entrée.

Serves 4

For the sauce:

1 1/2 cups fish stock

1 cup dry French vermouth

3 ounces heavy cream

1 pinch saffron

4 roma tomatoes, concasse

2 tablespoons tarragon leaves, chopped immediately before using

For the salmon:

4 salmon confit filets

1 pound new potatoes, washed

1/2 pound spinach, washed and stems removed

1 garlic clove, crushed

Pinch of grated nutmeg

2 tablespoons duck fat

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

To prepare the sauce:

Place the stock and wine into a saucepan and bring it to the boil then reduce it to simmer and leave it to reduce by two thirds. Add the cream and stir in the saffron. Return the liquid to a simmer and reduce by a third so that you have a sauce consistency. Remove the sauce from the stove and keep warm until ready to serve. You may cover with a kartouche (grease proof paper with butter) or a layer of melted butter to prevent the sauce from forming a skin.

To prepare the vegetables and salmon:

Prepare the sauce first Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil.

Make a small x-shaped cut through the skin of each tomato at the end opposite the stem. Plunge the tomatoes into the boiling water for 10 seconds. Rinse the tomatoes under cold running water. Remove the skin from the tomatoes, starting at the small x cut. Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally and squeeze out the juices and seeds from each half.

Dice the tomato halves into regular small dice, less than 1/4 inch square (concasse).

Using a vegetable peeler, cut a small strip of skin from around the center of each potato, leaving the skins on the ends. (This will make the potato look like it has a wide belt on.)

Place the potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water and simmer for 10-15 minutes until they are tender when a knife is inserted into them. Drain the potatoes and keep them warm.

Cut the spinach in to 1 inch ribbons.

Heat the duck fat in a sauté pan over moderately high heat. When it has melted, add the garlic and spinach. Cook until the spinach has wilted.

Add the nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste.

Remove the spinach from the pan and keep it warm.

Reserve the duck fat and keep it warm.

Meanwhile, heat the salmon, covered, in the warmed oven.

To Serve:

Reheat the sauce and carefully stir in the tomato concasse and freshly chopped tarragon. Place one quarter of the spinach in the center of each of four warmed serving plates.

Slice the potatoes into 1/4 inch slices.

Drizzle the reserved duck fat (from the spinach) onto the potatoes.

Arrange the potato slices atop the spinach on each plate.

Top the potato slices with one salmon confit filet.

Pour the sauce around and partially over the salmon.

Salmon Confit with Roasted Shallots and Garlic in Red Wine Sauce

The delicate salmon here is bolstered by a self-assured garlic and red wine combination. Serve this with an artisan bread and small salad for a complete meal.

Serves 4

4 (6 ounce) fillets salmon confit

12 medium shallots, unpeeled

2 bulbs garlic, unpeeled

6 teaspoons olive oil

For the sauce:

2 shallots, peeled and chopped

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup fresh chicken stock

1 bottle Burgundy-style wine (Pinot Noir)

1 sprig rosemary

1 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley

1 sprig fresh thyme

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt

1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter

To prepare the sauce:

Sauté the shallots in the olive oil over medium heat until translucent.

Add the stock, and wine.

Simmer the sauce until it is reduced to one cup.

Add the rosemary, parsley and thyme.

Simmer for 2 minutes more.

Strain the sauce and place it back into the sauté pan.

Salt to taste.

Over medium heat, swirl in the butter until just melted.

Keep the sauce warm until service.

To prepare the garlic, shallots and salmon:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Drizzle the garlic and shallots with the olive oil. Place the garlic and shallots whole in the oven.

Roast for 30 to 40 minutes or until the interiors are tender.

Place the garlic and shallots on a wire rack until they are cool enough to handle, and then peel them.

Reduce the oven to 250° F.

Warm the salmon filets, covered, in the oven.

To serve:

Place one salmon filet in the center of each of four warmed plates.

Distribute the garlic and shallots among the plates.

Pour the sauce around the plates.

Arctic Char Confit Napoleon with Confit Tomato and Crab

Arctic Char is lighter in both color and flavor than salmon, but has a similar texture. You can use salmon in this preparation if char is not available.

Serves 4

Olive oil

1 (16 ounce) Arctic Char fillet, skinless

1 sprig thyme

2 cloves garlic

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 sheets lasagna noodles, preferably fresh, cooked

2 cups tomato confit, chopped

1/2 pound lump crab meat, cleaned

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 celery stalk, shredded through the medium holes of a box grater

4 tablespoons tomato concasse (optional)

To poach the fish:

In a saucepan, bring the olive oil to 160° F.

Add the char, thyme and garlic and bring the temperature back up to 160° F.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover and allow the fish to poach in the oil for about 15 minutes, or until the flesh is heated through.

Remove the fish from the oil and allow it to drain. Blot it with a towel and let cool enough to handle.

Carefully slice the fish in very thin slices (as if you were cutting smoked salmon).

Lightly salt and pepper the slices.

To assemble:

Using a square 2 x 2 inch cutter or 2 inch round cutter, cut squares or circles out of the lasagna noodles.

Place the same cutter on one of four serving plates.

Place a noodle piece in the bottom of the cutter.

Place a layer of fish on the noodle.

Place a layer of tomato confit on the fish.

Place a layer of crab on the tomato confit.

Repeat the layers, ending with a noodle on top.

Repeat for the other three plates.

You should get about three sets of layers on each plate.

Unmold the napoleons and top them with shredded celery.

Beat together the Worchestershire sauce and olive oil and drizzle over the napoleons.

Garnish with tomato concasse, if desired.

Cassoulet and Garbure

About Cassoulet and Garbure

Perhaps no other dish is as closely associated with confit and the southwest of France as cassoulet. Cassoulet’s distant cousin, garbure, runs a close second. Their presence is ubiquitous throughout the region in varying forms with a variety of ingredients.

Both dishes are hearty peasant food, rich in taste and tradition, made with simple ingredients and meant to feed a crowd on a budget. They are so ingrained into the French tradition that one of them, cassoulet has been featured on a postage stamp.

Cassoulet

Cassoulet is a meat and bean casserole characterized by its use of confit and pork in a long cooking process which, through repeated heating and cooling, forms a crust on the top of the dish.

The beans used in cassoulet are traditional, white French beans – haricots. Each region of France grows their own type of bean, some of them protected by grower consortiums to maintain purity and guarantee quality. In the fall, people in and around Bearn enjoy fresh haricot de maize beans which produce unparalleled results. The rest of the year, dried white beans are used. Among these beans, Lingots, Tarbais or moujete beans are commonly used in France but are not readily available in the United States. Navy beans are a good substitute. Interestingly, white beans did not arrive in France until the middle of the sixteenth century. It is likely that chopped turnips, fava beans or stale bread were used in cassoulet-like preparations prior to the arrival of haricots.

When it comes to meats, in addition to the traditional confit and pork, cassoulet may contain sausage, lamb, mutton and even dried fish, salted pig’s tails or ears.

Cassoulet’s long history can be traced back to mutton and bean stews brought to the region by the Romans and added to by the native civilization of what is now northern Spain and southern France. Creation of the “original” cassoulet is claimed by Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse. Assuming that the archetypical recipe is also the most simple, Castelnaudary’s assertion is the most logical. Cassoulet’s name is based on the earthenware pot in which it is cooked – the cassole which is made in Ussel, a town not far from Castelnaudary. While the true origin is lost in history, several fabled beginnings are well documented

Legend has it that the first true cassoulet was the gift of a mysterious old lady to Catherine d’ Medici, Countess of Lauragais, who was seeking a cure for the sterility of her daughter, Queen Margot, the childless wife of the King of Navarre. This story could partially be based on the factual evidence that a bag of white beans was included in the dowry of the Countess when she was to be wed to the Dauphin of France. The Countess met the Dauphin in Marseilles and thus introduced the white bean to France.

Another tale says the dish was created in twelfth century Castelnaudary during an English siege of the town. This story explains the hearty contents and the repeated cooking and cooling of the dish and creation of the obligatory crust on the surface of the casserole. The heating and cooling reflect the many times the pot was re-warmed during the blockade. The crust serves both keep in the flavors and keep out unwanted elements. According to the legend, the siege lasted seven days. In the time-honored Castelnaudary preparation method, the crust is broken seven times during cassoulet cooking to commemorate the length of the siege.

Most likely, however, the casserole’s evolution was a natural progression from the ancient stews, incorporating local ingredients and cooking methods.

Castelnaudary – in the west of France’s Languedoc–Roussillon region – asserts itself as the “World Capital of Cassoulet” and celebrates the creation of the dish every December in a festival dedicated to it and its foremost component, confit. The style of cassoulet served here is the most traditional and historic and does not include a bread crumb crust; the cooking process alone is sufficient to create a layer of hardened juices on the top of the casserole.

Just as different regions of France argue about which makes the best cassoulet, the denizens of Castelnaudary can’t seem to agree where to find the best local version.

Castelnaudary is not, however, the only town claiming a unique version of the casserole. Carcassonne, to the south east of Castelnaudary, traditionally uses confit, pork chops, and mutton or lamb and, during the hunting season, partridge. Toulouse’s version includes sausage and mutton - plus, of course, the famous Toulouse goose. Montauban further enhances flavor with a unique garlic sausage. Corbières adds salted pig’s tails and ears. There are even recipes from the Mediterranean coast that contain salt cod.

While these distinctions in local versions pervade the time-honored cooking of the areas, present practice has blurred the lines. I’ve had sausage in my cassoulet in Castelnaudary and eaten versions in Toulouse without mutton.

Regardless of the ingredients, and following the French tradition of codifying all things culinary, an official French committee, the États Généraux de la Gastronomie, declares that cassoulet shall contain:

At least 30% pork (including sausage), mutton or goose confit

70% haricot beans and stock, fresh pork rinds, herbs and other flavorings

This book presents three different versions of cassoulet, a conventional one based on the classic from Castelnaudary, an updated preparation from the Ardour Valley of the Pyrenees and an unusual fish cassoulet made with lentils. These recipes run the gamut from ultra traditional to new avant-garde and should please conservative as well as adventurous tastes.

Garbure

…The Baron sat in silence in front of a small table, answering with a welcoming hand Pierre’s respectful address.

Pierre then unlatched the cooking pot from the chimney hook and turned its contents onto the bread that had been cut in advance and put into an earthenware bowl. He then put this in front of the Baron; it was the peasant soup that is still eaten in Gascony, called garbure…

Thus begins Théophile Gautier’s Le Capitaine Fracasse. Garbure is frequently mentioned in French literature, particularly that of the south.

While cassoulet is strictly a casserole, garbure is more like a very substantial stew or soup comprised of vegetable stock, cabbage, beans and meat – usually ham and goose confit. The vegetables and meat are served separately from the broth, which is sometimes fortified with wine. This fortified stock is called goudale. Ubiquitous through the south of France; garbure is called Baratzekari Salda in the Basque.

Garbure preparations (just like cassoulet) vary from place to place, but it is generally agreed that the resulting stew should be thick and hearty. Some say that the garbure is not thick enough if the ladle does not stand up in it.

Although the stew’s name is similar to the Spanish word for stew, garbias, Maximin (Simin) Palay, in La Cuisine du pays, attributes the name of garbure to the French garbe, which means sheaf or bunch and referring to the bunch of vegetables used in the dish’s preparation.

Traditional garbure is normally prepared with beans; a variation – briscat – is made with corn.

Again, three versions of garbure are presented here: the traditional soup, a version from Landes and, finally, briscat.

Classic Cassoulet

A gigantic recipe for 10 to 12 people, this classic French bean-and-meat casserole is hearty and heart-warming. It takes some time to prepare, but can be made completely ahead and is really best after being refrigerated for a day or two and re-heated.

Serves 10 to 12

For the pork roast:

Marinade:

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 spring fresh rosemary

1 bay leaf, crushed

1 clove garlic, mashed

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 pounds pork loin, boned

4 tablespoons canola oil

1 onion, sliced

1 carrot, sliced

Bouquet Garni, tied in a cheesecloth bag:

3 sprigs parsley

1 bay leaf

1 sprig thyme

For the lamb:

2 pounds lamb shoulder

6 tablespoons goose fat or canola oil

1 pound lamb bones

2 onion, minced

1 leek, minced

4 cloves garlic, mashed

4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and juiced

1 sprig fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

3 cups dry white wine

3 cups duck or beef stock

For the beans:

2 pounds Great Northern beans (or, for authentic French flavor, lingots or moujete beans)

1/2 pound salt pork

1 pound fresh bacon or fresh side (unsalted and unsmoked)

1 large onion, sliced

Bouquet garni, tied in a cheesecloth bag:

4 cloves garlic, peeled

6 sprigs flat leaf parsley

1 sprig thyme

2 bay leaves

For presentation:

1 pound Andouille sausage

4 goose or duck confit legs, bones removed and meat cut into 2 inch pieces

2 cups dry white bread crumbs

1/2 cup chopped flat leaf parsley

3 tablespoons goose fat or canola oil

To prepare the pork roast:

Place the ingredients for the marinade in a large zip-closure bag. Add the pork loin, close the bag and massage the marinade all over the roast.

Marinade the roast for at least 2, but not more than 4 hours, refrigerated and turning the bag every hour to evenly season the meat.

Preheat the oven to 325° F.

Remove the roast from the bag and wipe off any excess marinade. Discard the marinade.

In an oven-proof casserole just large enough to hold the roast, heat 4 tablespoons of canola oil.

Place the roast in the casserole and brown it on all sides.

Add the onions, carrots and bouquet garni.

Cover the casserole and bake it in the oven until a meat thermometer registers 175° F., basting with the roast juices every 20 minutes.

When the roast is finished, allow it to rest (removed from the casserole dish) for at least 20 minutes before proceeding. If you are preparing the roast ahead of time, place it on a platter in the refrigerator, uncovered, until it is cooled, then cover it and keep it refrigerated for up to two days.

Reserve the pork cooking juices.

To prepare the lamb:

Preheat the oven to 325° F.

Cut the lamb into 1 1/2 inch cubes

In a medium oven-proof casserole, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the lamb pieces in the fat. Do not crowd the pan. If you have more meat than will fit in a single layer, brown it in batches to prevent the meat from steaming instead of frying.

Remove the lamb from the casserole and place it on a platter.

Brown the lamb bones and place them on the same platter as the meat.

Lower the heat to medium and add the onions. Sauté the onions until they brown lightly – about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic, tomatoes, thyme, bay leaves, wine and stock to the casserole. Return the meat and bones to the casserole and stir to coat the meat with the aromatics.

Cover the casserole and bake for 1 1/2 hours.

When the lamb is finished, remove the meat from the casserole. If you are preparing the lamb ahead of time, allow it to cool, uncovered, in the refrigerator, then cover and refrigerate for up to two days.

Reserve the lamb cooking liquid.

To prepare the beans:

Boil 6 quarts of water in a very large pot.

Add the beans to the water and bring the water back to a boil.

Remove the pot from the heat and allow the beans to cool and soak for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, place the salt pork in a saucepan of cold water. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 1 minute.

Remove the pan from the heat and drain out the hot water. Rinse the pork in cold running water.

Refill the saucepan with cold water and place the pork in the water.

Bring the pan to a boil over medium-high heat again. Boil for 1 minute.

Remove the pan from the heat and drain out the second batch of hot water. Rinse the pork under cold running water again.

Cut the pork into 1/4 inch strips (lardons).

Refill the saucepan with 1 quart of cold water and place the pork strips in the water.

Bring the pan to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Simmer the pork strips for 30 minutes.

When the strips have finished cooking, set them aside and wait for the beans to finish soaking.

Place the bacon, onion, pork rind (along with the water), and bouquet garni into the pot with the beans.

Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Simmer slowly until the beans are tender, skimming any scum that accumulates on the surface. This should take about an hour and a half. Add boiling water, if needed to keep the beans complete submerged.

When the beans are done, drain them, reserving the water. Discard the bouquet garni.

Pour the reserved juices from the pork roast and lamb into the bean pot. Add the beans back to the pot.

Add enough bean cooking water to cover the beans.

Bring to a boil then remove from the heat and allow the beans to soak for 20 minutes.

Drain the beans only when you are ready to proceed with the final assembly of the cassoulet.

Reserve the bean liquid.

Assembling the cassoulet:

Cut the roast pork into 1 1/2 inch cubes.

Slice the bacon into serving-sized pieces.

Remove any fat from the goose confit pieces.

Slice the sausage in 1 inch pieces.

Place a layer of beans in the bottom of a table-presentable and oven-proof 8 quart casserole pot.

Place a layer of the meats on the beans.

Repeat the layers, ending with beans.

Pour enough of the bean liquid in to just come to the surface of the beans.

The cassoulet can be prepared to this point and refrigerated for up to two days.

Final preparation:

Preheat the oven to 375° F.

Spread the bread crumbs and parsley over the top of the cassoulet.

Place the cassoulet in the oven.

When the bread crumbs have toasted lightly, reduce the oven heat to 350° F.

Break the bread crust in one location and baste the crust with bean liquid drawn through the break.

Repeat the basting every 15 minutes. (Traditionally, the crust breaking and basting process is repeated seven times.)

Bake the cassoulet for about one hour total, or until it is hot all the way through.

The recipe steps can be performed sequentially, or simultaneously, depending on your kitchen schedule.

While traditional cassoulet from the Languedoc-Roussillon region includes goose confit, this dish is just as good with duck; you can use either or a combination of both.

Cassoulet L’Ardour

This Pyrenean version of the classic bean casserole is simpler to prepare than the Languedoc-Roussillon cassoulet recipe, but requires several re-heatings to develop full flavor. .

Serves 8

2 pounds dry Tarbais beans (or other compact white beans, such as navy)

1 tablespoon goose fat

2 tablespoons peanut oil

8 cloves garlic, chopped

4 to 6 legs goose confit

1 pound fresh link sausages, cut in half and the skin pricked in several places

6 ounces pork skin (raw crackling)

2 onions, finely chopped

1 cup fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

Bouquet garni containing:

1 sprig thyme

1 bay leaf

1 sprig chervil

4 cloves

salt

freshly ground black pepper

To prepare the beans, confit and sausage:

Soak the beans overnight in cold water in a heat proof casserole. Do not change the water during the soaking.

Following the soaking, bring the beans to a boil in the soaking water and cook at a slow boil for 30 minutes. (Add water if necessary to keep the beans submerged.)

Drain the beans.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and melt the goose fat in it. Add the peanut oil. Add the drained beans, onions and two thirds of the garlic and sauté them for 10 minutes.

In a separate sauté pan, heat the confit legs slowly to melt any clinging fat away from them. Remove the legs and set aside. Leave the fat in the pan and add the sausages. Cook the sausages until they are heated through and loose most of their fat.

To assemble the casserole:

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Line a three quart oven-proof casserole with the pork skin, cutting pieces as necessary to completely cover the bottom and half way up the sides. Smash the remaining garlic cloves into a paste and rub them into the pork skin lining.

Place the beans, tomatoes, and bouquet garni into the casserole. Add enough water to cover the contents by 2 inches. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Bake the casserole in the oven for 1 1/2 hours, being careful that the water level does not go below the top of the contents.

Chop the sausages into large pieces and add them and the whole confit legs to the casserole, pushing them under the surface of the beans. Add water, if necessary to come to the top of the contents.

Return the casserole to the oven for 1 hour.

A thin crust will develop on the surface of the casserole. It is important not to break the crust. Remove the casserole from the oven and allow it to cool in the refrigerator overnight or for at least four hours.

Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Make a small break in the crust on the surface of the casserole and add enough water through the hole to come up to the crust. Do not add so much water that it floods onto the surface of the crust. Return the casserole to the oven and bake until it is heated through, about 1 hour.

Remove the casserole from the oven and return it to the refrigerator. Allow it to cool overnight or for at least four hours. Repeat the reheating process at least four and up to seven times.

Throughout the reheating process, the crust will become thicker and thicker. This helps to seal the flavor into the casserole.

To serve:

After the last reheating, bring the hot casserole to the table and serve it over toasted country bread, including bits of the broken crust.

Classic Garbure

Once again, goose confit makes its appearance in a hearty casserole or stew, this time in a classic peasant soup from the Béarn, Gascony, and Basque regions of France. In Basque, it is called Baratzekari Salda.

Serves 8

3 1/2 quarts water

4 cups unpeeled potatoes, quartered

1( 1/2 pound) country ham, whole

2 pounds cabbage, roughly chopped

4 cloves garlic, crushed

2 onions, peeled and quartered

2 carrots, peeled and quartered

2 turnips, peeled and quartered

2 cups fresh lima beans

Bouquet Garni containing, all tied in a cheesecloth bag:

6 parsley sprigs

1 bay leaf

8 peppercorns

2 sprigs thyme

1 sprig marjoram

4 cloves

2 cups chopped goose confit meat

Salt

1 cup Beaujolais wine

1 cup goose fat

8 slices baguette bread

Bring the water, ham, and potatoes to a boil in a large non corrodible soup pot. Add the remaining ingredients except the confit, salt, goose fat and bread.

Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, for 2 hours.

Remove the ham and bouquet garni.

Cut the ham into serving portions.

Salt the soup to taste.

The soup can be prepared up to this point in advance. Reheat both the soup and ham before serving.

Preheat the oven to 250° F.

Place the goose confit in the oven, covered to warm through, about 30 minutes.

Brush the bread slices on both sides with goose fat. Toast them in a sauté pan over medium heat until golden brown.

To serve:

Stir the wine into the soup.

Ladle the soup into wide-rimmed soup bowls.

Place a toasted bread slice in the center of the soup.

Mound portions of the confit on top of the bread.

Place the ham pieces around the bread, on top of the soup.

Garbure Landaise

A friend from Landes, in the Aquitaine, was kind enough to share this recipe with me. Her original instructions did not include exact amounts, only handfuls and several references to “some” of a particular ingredient. I’ve interpreted her suggestions here.

Serves 8

16 duck confit legs

1/2 pound Tarbais beans

6 carrots, diced

2 turnips, diced

6 potatoes, diced

2 cloves of garlic, minced

2 shallots, minced

2 leeks (white part only), julienned

4 large sausage pieces

1 cabbage, shredded

1 stalk celery, diced

1 bouquet garni containing:

1 spring thyme

1 sprig chervil

8 peppercorns

1 cup white wine

2 quarts chicken stock

Large slices of rustic bread toast, rubbed with garlic

Freshly ground black pepper

Chopped parsley (for garnish)

To prepare the beans:

Place the beans in cold water and allow them to soak overnight.

When the beans have soaked, wash and peel the rest of the vegetables and cut them into small dice.

Mince the garlic and shallots.

Chop the sausage, removing the skin.

Fry the skin until it is crisp and set aside.

In a cast iron casserole if possible, cook the beans in the chicken stock with the bouquet garni.

Deglaze the pan used to fry the skins with the white wine. Add the wine to the bean pot.

Sweat the carrots, turnips, leek, potatoes and celery in duck fat, until softened. Add the vegetables to the beans.

Cook the casserole over low heat for 30 minutes.

Add the shallots, garlic and cabbage 5 minutes before the end of cooking.

Remove the bouquet garni before service.

To Serve:

Line your serving plate with slices of the bread.

Pour the soup over the bread.

Grind a couple of turns of fresh pepper over the soup and garnish with chopped parsley.

My friend suggests drinking a Madiran wine with the soup.

Appendix

Resources

Aux Delices des Bois
14 Leonard St.
New York, NY 10013
(212) 334-1230
(800) 666-1232
Fax: (212) 334-1231

Duck confit and specialty foods

Charlie Trotter’s
816 W. Armitage
Chicago, IL
(773) 248-6228
www.charlietrotters.com

Specialty prepared duck confit

D’ Artagnan
399-419 St. Paul Ave.
Jersey City, NJ 07306
(800) 327-8246
www.dartagnan.com

Duck and goose confit, truffles

Earthy Delights
1161 E. Clark Road, Suite 260
DeWitt, Michigan 48820
(800) 367-4709 or (517) 668-2402
Fax: (517) 668-1213
earthydelights.com

Wild mushrooms, truffles, ramps, fresh herbs, chestnuts

Eberly Poultry
Stevens, PA
(717) 336-6440,
www.eberlypoultry.com

Geese

Hudson Valley Foie Gras
80 Brooks Road
Ferndale, NY 12734
(845) 292-2500
Fax (845) 292-3009
www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com

Duck and foie gras

Grimaud Farms
1320-A South Aurora
Stockton, California 95206
Phone (800) 466-9955
Fax (209) 466-8910
www.grimaud.com

Ducks, duck confit and duck fat

Legal Sea Foods
One Seafood Way
Boston, MA 02210
(800) EAT-FISH
www.legalseafoods.com

Seafood

Melissa’s/World Variety Produce, Inc.
P.O. Box 21127
Los Angeles, CA 90021
(800) 588-0151
www.melissas.com

Exotic fruits and vegetables

Schiltz Goose Farm Inc.
Siseton, SD
(877) 872-4458,
www.schiltzfoods.com

Geese

Stone Church Farms
Rifton, NY
(845) 658-3243

Duclair and Rouen Clair ducks

Wild Game
2475 North Elston Avenue
Chicago, IL 60647
(773) 227-0600

Ducks, geese and other wild game

Bibliography

Books

Ash, John – American Game Cooking: A Contemporary Guide to Preparing Farm-Raised Game Birds and Meats – Boulder (Colorado): Perseus Publishing, 1993.

Beck, Simone; Bertholle, Louisette and Child, Julia – Mastering the Art of French Cooking – New York: Knopf , 1961 (1970).

Brown, Michael and Sybil – Food and Wine of South-West France – London: Batsford, 1980.

Peterson, James – The Duck Cookbook – New York: Stewart, Tabori and Chang, 2003

Peterson, James – Sauces - Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making – New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1998.

Roux, Michel – Le Gavroche Cookbook – London: Cassell & Co., 2001.

Strang, Jeanne – Goose Fat & Garlic : Country Recipes from South-West France – London: Trafalgar Square, 1994.

Wolfert, Paula – The Cooking of South-West France - A Collection of Traditional and New Recipes from France’s Magnificent Rustic Cuisine – Garden City, New York: Dial – 1983.

Magazine Articles

Caves, crusades and cassoulet: the other south of France: Languedoc and French Catalonia – The Atlantic Monthly, April 1991, by Peter Davidson

Chefs Don’t Cut The Fat, Preserve Tradition By Serving Up Classic Duck Confit – Nation’s Restaurant News, Nov 24, 2003, by Florence Fabricant

Dark Knight: Under-Utilized And Under-Appreciated, Dark Meat Poultry Has Finally Triumphed On Menus Where Chefs Celebrate Its Depth, Flavor And Versatility – Prepared Foods, January, 2004, by Toni Lydecker

Preserving A Tradition: Chefs Go Beyond Duck To Make Confit Of Almost Everything – Nation’s Restaurant News, December 10, 2001, by Florence Fabricant

The Relevance Of Fat – Art Culinaire, Winter, 2002

Index

Colophon

About the Author

This is the second edition of Paul Plummer’s first cookbook. He has been an avid cook since he was a child. Not a professional chef (his only experience in a commercial kitchen – second-shift cook in a meat packing plant’s cafeteria – was a part-time job in high school), Mr. Plummer nevertheless is passionate about food.

He has traveled worldwide, always taking advantage of the local cuisine.

About the Typography

This book is set in Monotype Bulmer.

Originally created in 1792, and used in Bulmer’s Shakspere [sic] Press editions, this type style inherited the name of the printer – not its designer, William Martin. In 1928 Morris Fuller Benton created a revival of the typeface for American Type Founders. Benton’s version condensed the original letter forms and created more pronounced serifs. Bulmer is often used for display type due to its high contrast and easily readable letter shapes.

Production Notes

During recipe testing, notes for recipes and text were made on Pocket PCs, with draft text uploaded to Microsoft® Word™ for final editing.

Book layout and production were done in Adobe® InDesign®.

Sensual
Preservation

The Art of Confit

Paul Plummer

Second Edition - 2009

Copyright © 2009 by Paul Plummer – All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, in whole or in part, in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including, but not limited to, information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the copyright holder, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review. Members of educational institutions wishing to photocopy part or all the work for classroom use, or publishers, who wish to include part or all of the work in an anthology, should direct inquiries to the copyright holder.

Published by Mon Cuisinier Books

Seattle, Washington USA